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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Have a Springfield Frame / Slide. Installed

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=126961

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=188154

PROBLEM #1: Trigger pull is really light, but now the hammer falls on half-cock as well :bawling:

PROBLEM #2: Bought a Colt 1911 barrel, but the bushing that it came with does not fit the slide. The bushing goes in/out of barrel without any problems, but gets stuck about half way into the slide. I tried a Springfield bushing off of my friend's springer, it fits the slide, but does not fit the barrel....

PROBLEM #3: Barrel/ Slide does not want to work together.... There is a gap between the barrel and the slide....Pics below:
http://img502.imageshack.us/i/sdc10335.jpg/
http://img693.imageshack.us/i/sdc10334.jpg/

PROBLEM #4: Safety is GRITTY and TOUGH! When the slide is not inserted, it is not to hard, but when the slide is on, safety is much harder to engage.
 

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there are two barrels that would drop in w/o fitting in your SA slide...S&W1911 and Kimber match barrel with their factory links.

i got a Les Baer barrel bushing in my SA GI...drops right in very snug w/o fitting with Kimber barrel....requires bushing wrench to field strip. i can shoot 2.5" groups at 30" off hand all day long with this set up.

as far as your trigger is concerned....i'd order a berryhill commander hammer, Wilson drop in commander beavertail grip safety(might need minor fitting) and Ed Brown sear...with minor stoning and your trigger will be GTG.

SA plunger spring might require minor tuning in order to function smoothly.

Good luck.:)
 

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there are two barrels that would drop in w/o fitting in your SA slide...S&W1911 and Kimber match barrel with their factory links.

i got a Les Baer barrel bushing in my SA GI...drops right in very snug w/o fitting with Kimber barrel....requires bushing wrench to field strip. i can shoot 2.5" groups at 30" off hand all day long with this set up.

as far as your trigger is concerned....i'd order a berryhill commander hammer, Wilson drop in commander beavertail grip safety(might need minor fitting) and Ed Brown sear...with minor stoning and your trigger will be GTG.

SA plunger spring might require minor tuning in order to function smoothly.

Good luck.:)
Where did you get a Kimber barrel by itself? Does Kimber sell them? If so I might do that with my SA.
 

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The parts suggestions made in the responsive posts above won't do it, and they are the wrong advice. The reason is that those suggestions assume that the OP knows how to properly make these mods, and his post shows that he doesn't - that he considers every one of the mods he has tried so far, from the sear spring to the barrel and bushing, a drop-in mod. They aren't. Each requires knowledge and correctly done work. As it is now, the gun is at best nonfunctional and at worst un-safe.

So, my suggestion to him is to put the gun back in original orientation and leave it that way until such time as he either (A) learns how to correctly do these modifications and test them for safety himself, or (B) hires a pro.

Best,
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All I got is the lower working, and slapping on a 22 conversion....but I really want a 45...:bawling: Kinda tight on the budget as well..
 

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Where did you get a Kimber barrel by itself? Does Kimber sell them? If so I might do that with my SA.
Colt barrels wouldn't work in a SA slide/frame w/o fitting...been there done that.
i'd go the WTB section and see if other forum member got a Kimber barrel stashed away. You might get lucky. All my S&W1911 and Kimber barrels are all interchangeable with my SA GI. They fit even better than the original SA barrel.
 

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The parts suggestions.. are the wrong advice... his post shows.. that he considers every one of the mods he has tried so far.. a drop-in mod. They aren't. Each requires knowledge and correctly done work. As it is now, the gun is at best nonfunctional and at worst un-safe.

... put the gun back... and leave it that way until such time as he either (A) learns how to correctly do these modifications... or (B) hires a pro.
Sage advice from Jon. Emphasis added to get your attention.

Not to discourage the OP, but you need to recognise your current limitations, learn by reading and listening instead of doing right now, and then decide whether you have the ability to tackle some of the mods or pass it to someone who can do it for you and return a safe firearm.
 

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On top of BigJon's and BBBBill's advice, I'd also suggest you get a dial caliper and a manual if you chose to pursue any modifications to your pistol. $26 for the caliper and close to that for each of two Kuhnhausen manuals from Midway.

Not to sound course, but I have no idea how specific make and manufacture parts can be advised without measurements. I guess I've been in the precision measurement arena for too many decades.
 

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No need to give up in disgust. Ask for guidance here and you can get some good advice. The search function is your friend. Use it to find posts by the pros and serious amateurs (like BigJon) who have covered the problems you are experiencing before you do something you will regret.
Back to your first post. Why were you messing with the trigger job, barrel, bushing, and safety anyway? More info will allow us to better assist you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
It is a 20 year old pistol thats been sitting in the corner for some time.....Over time, everything metal was alright but all the springs were basically rusted / lost strength. So I replaced the sear spring and the main spring. Trigger pull was significantly lighter, but I noticed that hammer falls on half-cock...

Going to replace:
Sear
Sear disconnector

But I first need:
Slide needs a barrel and a bushing

I've only field strip 1911 for cleaning,and thats all the experience I have...
P.S. I found out that the IMBEL slides are not compatible with the older NM Serial # frames
 

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Maybe Jon's onto something.

On the other hand, there's people who say they can teach you to build a 1911 over the internet, and since that's the way Jon learned, you'd think he'd know better...

Then again, maybe not.

Good luck!
 

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It is a 20 year old pistol thats been sitting in the corner for some time.....Over time, everything metal was alright but all the springs were basically rusted / lost strength. So I replaced the sear spring and the main spring. Trigger pull was significantly lighter, but I noticed that hammer falls on half-cock...

Going to replace:
Sear
Sear disconnector

But I first need:
Slide needs a barrel and a bushing

I've only field strip 1911 for cleaning,and thats all the experience I have...
P.S. I found out that the IMBEL slides are not compatible with the older NM Serial # frames
NOT COMPATIBLE?????????

I suggest you sit down, slow down, take a deep breath and listen to what people are trying to tell you. Just buying parts and trying to slap them together is NOT going to work.

Most parts are going to be oversized and need to be fitted. This takes a certain amount of know how, skill and tools to do the job right.

The best advise your been given is to buy some manuals and do some research. Take a few steps back and figure out what you need before spending money.
 

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To the OP-

As you can tell, tough crowd around here - but don't take it personal, since nobody's born knowing this stuff! :)

Something I'll add - you mentioned budget is tight, then you need to know right up front that if you're wanting to do just one or two "home jobs" on your 1911's that DOING IT YOURSELF IS NOT A MONEY SAVING OPERATION.

Tools and equipment are required, that are certainly worth the investment if you'll be doing this a lot - so make that call now and then proceed appropriately.

In any case, good luck!

kestrou
 

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Destroyer, let's start simple here. The pros are in this thread so they'll stop me if I am wrong. You are on a budget so let's try this, one step at a time.

The gap you see between the slide and the back of the chamber (sides) of the barrel are normal. The gap between the slide and the back of the hood (top) of the barrel is typical in a milspec slide. This is not match fit, but is acceptable as I see it in the pics.

To get your bushing to fit, mark the outside of it with a black or whatever color magic marker. set it into the slide as far as it will go and turn it with a bushing wrench while putting slight inward pressure on it. Don't force it in. You want to make marks on the bushing where it is contacting the slide. Remove it. Where you see the heaviest marks, you'll need to file off with small needle files. A few light stokes at each point where the marker was wiped off should allow the bushing to go in a little further after marking it and putting it in again.

The toughest part of doing the bushing this way is the thin area between the flanged end of the bushing and the retaining lug. This is where the thin needle file really helps. Go slow and careful is the word of the day. Think your way through it. If you get it in and it is snug, stop. That's a nice fit.

Once you have the bushing properly fitted, install the barrel and bushing in the slide. Turn the slide/barrel upside down. Look at the barrel lugs as you push down and release them. They should not move up and down as you do this. Now look at the barrel lugs from the end of the slide and gently push them left and right. The lugs should not lean to just one side.

Get back and let us know what you get when you get to this point. Do a search function on barrel and bushing fit. This is a dynamite site for learning the 1911. I've learning huge from these guys.

You can get a set of needle files at Home Depot for a few $$$ - get them, you'll need them. The different shapes will really make life much easier and produce better results. Forget the Dremel. Leave it at Home Depot.
 

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It is a 20 year old pistol... the springs were basically rusted / lost strength. So I replaced the sear spring and the main spring. Trigger pull was significantly lighter, but I noticed that hammer falls on half-cock...

Going to replace:
Sear
Sear disconnector

But I first need:
Slide needs a barrel and a bushing

I've only field strip 1911 for cleaning,and thats all the experience I have...
P.S. I found out that the IMBEL slides are not compatible with the older NM Serial # frames
Sear spring is not drop in. It most be tuned to provide proper tension on the sear, disconnector, and grip safety. That will prevent hammer follow IF the sear and hammer hooks have not been screwed with. Tuning the sear spring has been covered here in many posts. If hammer follow is why you wanted to replace the sear and disconnector, then hold off till you get that sear spring properly tensioned.

Again, why do you need a barrel and bushing?

How is the Imbel slide "incompatible"?

You admit to lack of experience, yet you seem to be in a hurry to rush into this and make decisions without a sound basis of understanding. Slow down, take a deep breath, and let us help you through the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Sear spring is not drop in. It most be tuned to provide proper tension on the sear, disconnector, and grip safety. That will prevent hammer follow IF the sear and hammer hooks have not been screwed with. Tuning the sear spring has been covered here in many posts. If hammer follow is why you wanted to replace the sear and disconnector, then hold off till you get that sear spring properly tensioned.

Again, why do you need a barrel and bushing?

How is the Imbel slide "incompatible"?

You admit to lack of experience, yet you seem to be in a hurry to rush into this and make decisions without a sound basis of understanding. Slow down, take a deep breath, and let us help you through the problems.
My friend have a Springfield mil-spec, with made in Brazil mark with N serial #. Tried the slide on my frame. Frame is thicker, impossible to put it on. I have the original slide that was with the frame, fits just fine. Both Springfield.
 

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My friend have a Springfield mil-spec, with made in Brazil mark with N serial #. Tried the slide on my frame. Frame is thicker, impossible to put it on. I have the original slide that was with the frame, fits just fine. Both Springfield.
I'm still not clear on your intent. Why are you swapping slides if yours fits fine?
 

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Destroyer - you are sitting pretty (seriously) with Magnumite, log, kestrou and Bill all on this thread. If you'll listen to them and do what they say in a step-by-step manner, you're likely to learn quite a lot, have fun, and end up with a gun that's in good shape too boot. I speak from first-hand experience; each has done the same for me, and the education continues.

Best,
Jon
 

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The hard part can't be bought.

Things to do:

Repeat questions until you understand the answer. Don't just repeat the same words, though. Re-word it until you ask the right question. Lots of questions answer themselves once you get them worded right.

Limit your objectives. Go for one thing at a time. Start with one, small goal, one part, then set your teeth in it like a pit bull and don't let go until you've been dead for two days.

Understand where you are, where you're going, how you're going to get there and how you're going to measure it BEFORE you start filing.

Get a good vise, a good magnifying lamp, and listen to what others like for magnification.

Buy both Kuhnhausen books on the 1911. They are both valuable, for different reasons. Pay close attention to the safety rules and the bench tests.

Things not to do:

Hurry.

Anything you don't understand or can't measure.

Anything you can't explain exactly why you're doing it.

Believe that anything is drop in. There are no drop in parts on a 1911.

Ways to save money:

Buy good parts. Cheap parts will cost you money. Sometimes, cheap parts will cost you a LOT of money.

Good planning.

Accurate measurements.
 
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