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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, got my replacement extractor from Springfield today. After the rep from SA told me that they do not ship out 9mm extr in their 45 pistols, I decided to compare the two extractors side by side. (See pic below.) The original measured 0.149 and the replacement measured 0.169 in thickness at the claw end. So, check them extractors fellas!;)

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No problem.

Tonight I filed the bevel on the bottom edge of the new one and installed it. When I did, I noticed that when I put a shell in place with the slide off the frame, there was a substantial amount of space between the back of the slide and the rim of the case. As if the new extractor was too long...or is there suppose to be space between the case and the back of slide? (I guess you wouldnt want the shell to be held too tightly, huh?)

Any thoughts?:(

Bryan
 

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Sounds to me ( at first guess) that the extractor is fresh and may need the proper "bend" or "tweak" put in it along the length of the bow....this will shorten it up and provide the proper tension on the case. I tend to tune my extractor just a wee bit heavier in tension than necessary to compensate for heavy firing and break in. If this extractor doesn't work right just say "screw it" and get a Wilson Series 70 Bulletproof. In fact I would anyway because that extractor springfield sent you was probably made by slave labor in China and will most likely fail you in the future.
That 18.5 lb Wolff spring will really give your pistol a much snappier feel and will soak up a lot more recoil...the original spring in my Springie was so weak that the heavy recoil transmitted to the frame of the weapon would cause live rounds to be ejected from the mag. The 18.5 lb Wolff stopped this promptly.
Good luck, Bro!!!!!!
 

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car54 said:
No problem.

Tonight I filed the bevel on the bottom edge of the new one and installed it. When I did, I noticed that when I put a shell in place with the slide off the frame, there was a substantial amount of space between the back of the slide and the rim of the case. As if the new extractor was too long...or is there suppose to be space between the case and the back of slide? (I guess you wouldnt want the shell to be held too tightly, huh?)

Any thoughts?:(

Bryan
I've spent quite bit of time tuning up the extractor in my 9mm 1911. First off, the 9mm/.38S extractor's critical difference compared to the .40/.45 is mainly in the tip (hook) length, not the width of the face. The Kuhnhausen shop manual has a good illustration of them both.

The case should not be held off the breech face by the extractor. I suspect the hook tip (claw) is too long and pushing into the webbing of the brass. You should be able to hold the slide up to a light and eyeball this. If you force the case back flat and it deflects the extractor, it means the tip is riding against the brass webbing.

I'm not sure this is a grave offense. Mine shot for a long time without problems with the hook pushing into the webbing a bit. But, proper fit is when the tip is just shy of hitting the brass and the edge of the case rim is dead flat against the flat face of the extractor. It can take some filing to get this just right. \

I'd say try yours before you do anything to it. If it works OK, use it as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Bounty, that's my plan. I havent made it to the range yet, so this is just an observation, not really a problem...yet.;)

But, if the claw IS too long, how could you adjust it? I've already bended it to hold the shell and it's still has a large gap between back of chamber and shell casing. Filing wouldnt help because the claw would be too thin as it is, right? I would think that a thicker claw would be needed to hold the case firm against the chamber.

Anyway, like I said, I aint shot her yet so there isnt a problem yet.

Bryan
 

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car54 said:
Thanks Bounty, that's my plan. I havent made it to the range yet, so this is just an observation, not really a problem...yet.;)

But, if the claw IS too long, how could you adjust it?
Jeweler's file, You shorten the tip if necessary and round the top portion down so it fits inside the brass when the extractor is against the case rim. I did it on mine. It's a lot of work, and you will have to re adjust the tension afterwards.

car54 said:
I've already bended it to hold the shell and it's still has a large gap between back of chamber and shell casing. Filing wouldnt help because the claw would be too thin as it is, right?
Hard to tell it the claw is too thin from the photo.

car54 said:
I would think that a thicker claw would be needed to hold the case firm against the chamber.
Actually, the claw shouldn't be against the brass on a properly fitted extractor when the round is chambered. The headspace will set the cartridge back to where it should be against the breech face. The outer flat edge of the brass rim will be flat against the flat inside face of the extractor and the claw won't be touching anything. The claw hooks the rim when the slide pulls rearward and the brass goes with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Actually, the claw shouldn't be against the brass on a properly fitted extractor when the round is chambered. The headspace will set the cartridge back to where it should be against the breech face. The outer flat edge of the brass rim will be flat against the flat inside face of the extractor and the claw won't be touching anything. The claw hooks the rim when the slide pulls rearward and the brass goes with it.
Bounty, that makes sense! Guess I might be worryin over nuthin!;)

Here some pics of my new extractor installed holding an empty. You can see the space that I was concerned about, but I didnt know if it was normal. Take a look.



 

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No worries.

I believe all 1911 extracors will show a "gap" between the front of the brass rim edge out to the hook with the brass against the breech face. As the round feeds up, it has to snake under the hook at an angle so there has to be some forward space to let it feed. But remember, the slide is pushing the round from the back as it rolls up, so it will tend to be forced rearward against the breech face. I believe the round will seat against the breech face in battery, not forward as in the picture.
 

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Car54...that looks pretty good right there...should shoot fine. As bountyhunter said once the cartridge headspaces in the chamber it will set back properly. I was originally worried that the rearmost section of the claw was off dimension and sticking out a bit past the breach face but your pictures show that not to be the case. Give her a run and let us know how it turns out.

Since I have ( with the help of a very good friend and 45 mechanic) rebuilt my SA it has turned into a hell of a gun and I actually like it quite a bit. If I had to do it again I would have bought a Colt....I will NEVER buy another SA product nor will I ever buy a 1911 from anyone other than Colt. Colt and Kimber are the ONLY 1911 companies who have NEVER burned me or someone I know. I just think Kimbers look too soft....however form does follow function. One thing to keep in mind is that Springfield's slide and frame combo is made from an Imbel forging and these are VERY nice forgings indeed. A springfield slide and frame are a great start to a custom 45 but their inhouse guns just aren't worth the chance you take. I say this from a great amount of experience with a company that one used to be able to depend on. Trust me when I say you can trust in themn NO LONGER.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since I have ( with the help of a very good friend and 45 mechanic) rebuilt my SA it has turned into a hell of a gun and I actually like it quite a bit. If I had to do it again I would have bought a Colt....I will NEVER buy another SA product nor will I ever buy a 1911 from anyone other than Colt. Colt and Kimber are the ONLY 1911 companies who have NEVER burned me or someone I know. I just think Kimbers look too soft....however form does follow function. One thing to keep in mind is that Springfield's slide and frame combo is made from an Imbel forging and these are VERY nice forgings indeed. A springfield slide and frame are a great start to a custom 45 but their inhouse guns just aren't worth the chance you take. I say this from a great amount of experience with a company that one used to be able to depend on. Trust me when I say you can trust in themn NO LONGER.
Thanks for the info bounty and desert, I will give it a go as soon as I can get to the range. As for the thoughts on the Springer, desert, I really didnt mean to get you all worked up. I am new to the 1911 scene, so I cant give ya any arguement either way. I also like Colts and Kimbers (Series I), as well as my Springer. I have the Springfield because I got it in a trade with no "out of pocket" money.:D

Thanks again for your replies, it makes me feel much better knowing that space should be there. Whew!:p

Bryan
 

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Car54...glad I could be of assistance...I do hope your pistol functions well from here on out.
Sorry if I seem worked up...I used to be a big fan of SA until I began having issues with SEVERAL of their products. Please save all of the info that you have accumulated because I would REALLY like to use your pictures and experience in a couple other forums on other boards. That fact that you have helped me prove that SA uses the wrong components would really help me out in a couple of other places.

So...THANK YOU for your help....seriously!
 
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