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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took it out shooting with some 10mm Remington factory loads and I noticed some sparks from the ejecting case's... 1 got lodged in between the breech face and the front of the slide, Jaming it up.

Its the factory recoil spring with approx 700rds down the pipe... Mechanically it looks like the recoil spring is too strong and cycling too fast not giving the spent shell enough time to get out of the way.

I'll post pics in a second.

Thanks!

JOe
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've only had one rnd. do that . Looks like the third one from the left. Which round in the mag is it happening? What mags are ya usin'?
It was all over. I was trying to narrow it down but i couldn't. I was using the factory DW mag as well as 3 other Mec-gar mags. It didn't matter if it was the 1st or last round.

JOe
 

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Took it out shooting with some 10mm Remington factory loads and I noticed some sparks from the ejecting case's... 1 got lodged in between the breech face and the front of the slide, Jaming it up.

Its the factory recoil spring with approx 700rds down the pipe... Mechanically it looks like the recoil spring is too strong and cycling too fast not giving the spent shell enough time to get out of the way.

I'll post pics in a second.

Thanks!

JOe
Maybe Dave will interject here.... brass does not spark. What you are seeing is powder burning as the slide comes back and shell extracts. If the recoil spring is too weak the slide actually cycles FASTER than normal. It will hit the rear so hard it "bounces" forward faster and the result is what you are seeing, shells jammed. Even if they don't jam, they will be dented.

You don't state how old the gun is. Regardless, I would put a 22lb spring in it and try again. You are shooting full power factory loads. I shoot .45 and I ALWAYS keep extra recoil springs with me. I change it roughly every 1000 to 1500 rounds. One way you can tell it is getting weak is when the gun starts to eject erratically, that is it throws shells all over the place, especially further away from you.

This is just MHO.
 

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Yeah, I immediately rethought that. Not mag related at all....which brings us to an extactor shake test and examining the ejector. The factory recoil spring should work fine. (less someone changed it):eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I completley overlooked that brass does not spark... It was odd though... It looked like Flint strikes coming out at a 45* angle.

JOe
 

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Check the extractor tension, you probably want to loosen it up a bit.
 

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I completley overlooked that brass does not spark... It was odd though... It looked like Flint strikes coming out at a 45* angle.

JOe
Think about what you are saying...sparks at 45*....The shell is exiting while the powder is still burning. You will see this with some loads BUT...I prefer not to. Your crushed brass tells me that your slide is "bouncing" and moving forward too fast. This is why I run an EGW Firing pin retainer and just barely round the edge, so that the gun stays in battery for that extra fraction of a second and a proper recoil spring adds to this ....Now, Race Guys like the opposite, low "dwell time" and fast cycling....Longer dwell and stronger (not too strong) recoil spring also helps to keep muzzle rise to a minimum.....recoil springs are cheap and a maintenance item on a 1911.

Look at any recoil spring replacement recommendation (wolff has it on website I believe) they should be changed quite regularly.

Hope we are helping!
 

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Think about what you are saying...sparks at 45*....The shell is exiting while the powder is still burning. You will see this with some loads BUT...I prefer not to. Your crushed brass tells me that your slide is "bouncing" and moving forward too fast. This is why I run an EGW Firing pin retainer and just barely round the edge, so that the gun stays in battery for that extra fraction of a second and a proper recoil spring adds to this ....Now, Race Guys like the opposite, low "dwell time" and fast cycling....Longer dwell and stronger (not too strong) recoil spring also helps to keep muzzle rise to a minimum.....recoil springs are cheap and a maintenance item on a 1911.

Look at any recoil spring replacement recommendation (wolfe has it on website I believe) they should be changed quite regularly.

Hope we are helping!
+2. specially for the 10mm loads you should make sure you keep eyes on your recoil springs and replace them around 500+ rounds, for what I read this will also help to prevent any damages to your frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys... I guess first/easiest/cheapest thing to do is throw in a new recoil spring. I bought this used but only a couple hundred rounds down the pipe. He gave me a new 22# (i think) wolff recoil spring.... He didn't mention it needed to be replaced or anything but he did give it to me.

Guess i throw that in and if it continues, i'll look for a good 1911 smith locally or something :rock:
 

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+2. specially for the 10mm loads you should make sure you keep eyes on your recoil springs and replace them around 500+ rounds, for what I read this will also help to prevent any damages to your frame.
500 rnds? ***???:eek:
 

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+2 to what NK just posted, some better check out the info. they give out.

Clyde
This is not based on any info posted by DW or any other manufacturer, but on personal reading about others running 10mm. I thought about getting a 10mm and during my research I read lots of people commeting on how Colt had lots of problems with frames not standing up for the high preasure 10mm loads, and what they suggested was to change the recoil springs often to prevent frame damages. Again, this is not based on any info provided by manfufacturers, I don't own a 10mm. This info is based on personal research!

You guys are probably correct, 500 rounds is probably too low. But I would still suggest new springs since this was a used gun. As a re of thumb, if the gun is bought used changed the springs, including the magazine springs.
 

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First thing I did with my 2 DW 10mm's was install an EGW oversize firing pin stop.

It slows the slide down just enough to allow the fired case to clear the ejection port.

A little tweaking of the extractor and ejector will help too.
 
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