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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Always nice to see another 10mm together!
Thanks, glad you approve of the ten!

Here are some ideas on jigging up frames:
Frame jigs
May inspire you some...
Joe
Thank you, I checked it out, and will study it some more. As it happens, I design and build quite a few fixtures for the products my company makes, so photos like that are interesting. I didn't even know about that forum, I will go back and check more of it out when time permits.

NICE build! The correct ejector is P34WS for 9mm/10mm, we don't list it on the website right now-you would need to call in for it.

Your finish work is EXCEPTIONAL!
Thank you, that is a good compliment from someone at Wilson Combat. That is good news about the ejector and most helpful, I was really hoping that bit of information would pop up. I called and spoke with someone at Wilson Combat who thought the same part was used for all Wilson pistols. That confused me more than a little bit, so I said I would call back latter. It probably didn't help that I was severely sleep deprived when I called, and perhaps I either didn't make myself clear (strong possibility) or just didn't understand the sales rep (another strong possibility). So I am glad I don't have to draw a part up, make programs and simple fixtures, and heat treat just to make one part and a spare or two.

Thanks navman, appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Received some parts yesterday, they were billed as top quality, but I disagree. The following photo contains a few of the parts I am rejecting, maybe I am being picky but I just can't force myself to use them on this build.

1. The guide rods were billed as stainless, and they looked really bad once I saw them in person. They are mostly stainless, a little test shows they are probably Chinese made 97% stainless steel at best. Notice the rust, and the voids after bead blasting?

2. Whoever cut the strut was pretty good with a cutting torch, or not so good with a laser machine. Either way, not worth putting any effort into.

3. I could re-work the hammer, but am not inclined. If I am going to put that much time into fixing it, I'll just start writing the CNC programs and build some low production fixtures. I don't even know what steel it is, Chinese maybe. It actually looks like stainless, but haven't verified yet. I suppose I could also check to see what the Rockwell is.

4. Disconnector is just plain rough and ugly, and it is blued (I was under the impression the parts I ordered were ALL stainless. I don't have anything against blued, per se, I think nicely blued guns are beautiful.

5. I didn't even bother to photograph the trigger and pins. The trigger was swaged onto the bow crooked and was rough. Some of the pins are unbelievable but oh well, pins are cheap and I already have some good stainless pins.

The parts were photographed individually and put into one image, so if the parts looks out of proportion to each other you really aren't loosing your mind.:)


So I am looking for good (make that the best, cost no object) ignition parts, hammer, sear, strut, and disconnector. I would greatly prefer all stainless parts, which is part of the problem as the selection is more limited. I have looked at the Berryhill and Harrison parts, and as near as I can tell from the photos they look pretty nice. I would order some of these parts right now, but they are not stainless.

http://www.berryhillguns.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=47

http://shop.harrisoncustom.com/products/120-hd-120-extreme-service-ignition-set.aspx

Besides the most important factors such as using suitable metal alloys and heat treatments, I'm looking for parts that have minor tool marks at most, parts that have not been touched by unskilled workers with a grinder, abrasive wheel or file, and coarse grit blasted to "hide" poor workmanship. I don't mind doing some detailing, but would rather start with parts that are well made by skilled people and not tossed around like they were cheap garbage. It's hard to judge quality by photos, and I don't want to buy parts and throw them in the trash until I run across good ones.


I have some questions:

1) Are stainless parts undesirable for the hammer, sear, and disconnector, and that's the reason they are not common? I know that when it is soft, stainless is prone to galling, but wouldn't heat treatable alloys hardened to the typical alloy steel part harness would work? Please tell me if I am missing something here.

2) Is there as source for stainless parts that are top quality in workmanship, similar to the Berryhill and Harrison?

3) What parts can you recommend that are made right and look the best?
 

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I don't know the source that you have tried yet but EGW makes some nice stainless parts. I think all of EGWs in house parts are billet and machined also. I particularly like the stainless firing pin stop. Oversize and square bottom which may be a tuning benefit for the 10 MM format. EMC makes a nice cast ring hammer in stainless. EGW and Colt offer struts in stainless. A billet stainless commander ring hammer would be filling a void if you could whittle up some. There are good ring hammers out there but all but a few are in the white carbon steel.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks for the leads guys. I wil be doing some shopping around checking that stuff out. A flat bottom firing pin is already on hand, but I might get a spare. I

I actually have the capacity in house to make all of the parts on a 1911, except the barrel which would make me learn a new skill and buy/build tooling, so barrels probably aren't going to happen any time soon. But machining hammers and sears is a distinct possiblity, along with a few other parts. I just would rather buy the stuff for this build, because of my time budget, building proper fixtures and devoloping good programs cost time and money. Having said that I did draw the strut up in CAD last night, will make some out of 440c and maybe some other alloys to test out.
 

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The strut looks like they used a worn out stamping die.
I am very interested in seeing how this build progresses.
I love a hot loaded 10mm, not sure how well the 1911 frame holds up thought.
 

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I love a hot loaded 10mm, not sure how well the 1911 frame holds up thought.
the 1911 frame has no issues with 10mm.i'm sure every manufacture has had a frame crack with a 45,10,38 super but the mighty 10 is really not that much of a beast.
if my plastic glock spits them out the steel 1911 will also do so
pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The strut looks like they used a worn out stamping die.
I am very interested in seeing how this build progresses.
I love a hot loaded 10mm, not sure how well the 1911 frame holds up thought.
It was either laser or plasma cut, just not the greatest looking job. I'm sure it would function ok, at least as long as it held together, which could be forever.

Is a ramped barrel recommended for 10mm?
The 10mm functions fine with a standard barrel, except hot loads might be problematic depending on the throating and how much pressure the loads produce. Cases can start to bulge, which is what I am hoping to cure with the ramped barrel.

I'm working on a fixture now (behind schedule, but what else is new?). Might have some pictures to post latter this evening.
 
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