Thanks again, I still need to call in for the ejector and maybe a few more parts.Bullhunter-amazing work..Greg, we have tons of stainless parts..
Everything but a stainless sear and disconnect..we even have stainless extractors and firing pins..if you search for struts on the site we also have a stainless billet strut.
For most operations, the plunger tube could be installed out. One operation I can think of where the plunger tube would need to be installed toward the fixture would be to machine countersink the slide stop hole for a recessed pin. Then there are other custom jobs where being able fixture the frame that way would be handy, like engraving and repairing holes, etc..I am trying to think why you might need it but maybe clearance for an integral or already installed plunger tube? All you need to do could probably be done without flipping the frame but just something to think about.
Thanks for the compliment. To put a nice pistol together without a mill and lathe is possible if you buy parts that don't need machine work, which is relatively easy if you are going with the .45 acp. If you buy parts that are fully machined how you want them, you can concentrate on the hand fitting and finishing aspects with cheaper and simpler hand tools.I am interested in how you plan to drill and pin the extractor (Wilson Rep, are you listening?).
I see their frames come shaped for their proprietary extractor, but without pin holes (as far as I can tell). Does your jig allow for this? What are the specs for the hole placement?
Wilson Rep, are your frames sold with your extractor installed as an option? (or standard is a plus).
The frame is beautiful so far and my next gun will be a home-build. I have the know-how, but none of this fancy equipment.
Once again, Kudos on a great thread!!
I haven't given drilling the ejector any thought, as it is not much of a challenge for me given my experience and the tools I have on hand. Earlier in my life, I'm sure I could have messed it up with the best of them. The fixture I built and the refined versions I now plan to manufacture would not be of any help specific to drilling the ejector, other than the fact the frame can be mounted and laid flat. With a mill and the right cutter and technique, the frame could be used as a jig to located and make the hole through the ejector. It's a less demanding job than the standard 2 legged ejector situation where the cut is off center on the round leg.
A little information just for fun, a fixture locates and secures a part or material. A jig often is a fixture too, in that it locates and holds the part, but it also is built to locate and or guide the tool or tools.
That was just my dry sense of humor when I said that. If wasn't going to take a photo of that screen for the whole world to see, I might have settled for a tenth or two difference. I got lucky on the first setup and it was close at 2-3 thousands, and only it took a few (4 or 5 maybe) more adjustments to get it at "zero" according to the probe.Bull, for the ignorami among us (me) you are going to have to explain what you meant by "as good as I could get it" on the probe readings. The readings are identical across the board, so what would you like to have seen different?
That looks great btw.
I wondered if someone would see that and put two and two together. Thanks, I'm glad your enjoying the thread! It makes it more worthwhile, as it takes time to do take the photos, upload them and try (I'm not a natural story teller like some are) to make a story out of it.BullHunter, I noticed the DMI logo in many of your pics. I believe I have one of your arrow rests.
Really enjoying this thread and look forward to seeing the finished product.