1911Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've seen posts describing the problem of new brass sticking to the expander die on Dillon presses.

I've had this problem, a few hundred rounds and you feel it in your elbow.

The Dillon guy suggested tough it out and clean the expander die with fine steel wool.

I didn't want to spray something that would contaminate primers and

In prep for my winter's loading of several thousand new brass in 45 and 9mm I tumbled the new brass in well used corncob media.

My thinking was the dirty corncob might put a film inside the new brass.

It worked, just loaded three hundred and no sticking and only a slight trace of the brass on the expander die.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Call up Dillon, purchase part number 13005. This is the pistol powder activator for the 1050 press. Loosen the two screws holding your powder measure in place, remove the powder measure, remove the current powder funnel, insert the new #13005 powder activator (powder funnel), replace powder measure, readjust for proper flare on your case. End of problems - no need to fight the press, use sprays, lubes, or anything else that I am aware of. I set up my 650's like this a long time ago as have a large number of people around this area with 650's, 550's and Square Deal presses. Works great, no more sticking brass and the entire press seems to run a great deal smoother and easier all due to the change of this one little part. The 13005 pistol powder activator (powder funnel) will work on cases down to .32 caliber.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
I'd try the one shot too, it doesn't contaminate primers or powder.

Try putting a test batch of brass through your tumbler with some polishing compound. I don't know if that will help, but I heard the reason new brass sticks is that it is dry since the factory puts it through a final cleaning process.

The 1050 part is a solution I've never heard of, I might have to try it.

Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Bullseye45acp,

I am going to order the part you suggested - thanks.

Valkman and 1911newbie, I thought about the spray lubes but didn't think much would get inside the cases where it's needed.
It sounds like it works for you.

Thanks all for you advice, Art
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
673 Posts
The problem with using the parts from a 1050 is you do not open up and reform the id of the cases. The 1050 does this in an earlier station.

What I have done is to have the powder drop die coated with TiN or something like that. Balzers
http://www.balzers.com/bhq/
they will coat the drop tube and the brass will not stick.

The cheap way to do it is just use One Shot or tumble your new brass with a little bit of Turtle Wax or someother lube in the media. This will give you the required lubricity so it won't stick.

I don't like the idea of not forming the id of the case. The id will not be round and if yoy have varying thickness case walls the id will vary a bunch. I shoot a lot of 40 and don't buy new brass. I also do not sort by headstamp. The id after the powder drop tube (550-650) or the id case former(1050) is round and the same size.

I shoot a lot of new 38 super brass (it doesn't live long) and the tumbler with lube is what I did until I got the coating on the powder drop tube.

Ed Henry
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top