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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New to the forum as well as my new 1911.

Just Bought a Kimber Warrior...Changed the Slide release to a Wilson Extended one...

I took it out to the range the other day ans shot it for the first time...used Remington 230 gr ball ammo...as well as some Winchester and PMC. I also had a Surefire X200 Attached and was using Wilson 8 rounders.

I put about 200 rounds through it before cleaning it. While shooting I had a few malfunctions to include failure to extract, failure to seat round completley in battery, and even the slide failed to stay locked back after the magazine was empty.

I have shot thousands of rounds through beretta 92F as well as my HK USP .40 with very little malfunctions. My first impression of the Kimber is kinda mixed because I was not counting on having these malfuntions...Any advice or help?
 

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You need to keep shooting it and keep it VERY WELL lubed. The failures you describe are what happens if a gun needs lube or there is too much friction. Shooting more with good lube will solve it if that's the problem.

The failure to lock back could be the slide stop so if I were you, I'd put the factory one back in until the gun is fully broken in and you know if there are problems or not.

I'd also suggest you check the extractor tension since it's an internal and easy to adjust. The types of failures you are having may also be due to an extractor with too little tension.

Good Luck.
 

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You shouldn't change anything on the gun until after the break in period. Even a slide release may not be a drop-in part and require fitting.
 

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An internal extractor issue isn't necessarily something that is going to get 'broken in'. Think about it: all it does is sit there and put tension on the rim of the case. If it is not extracting the cases correctly, check to see if it needs adjustment, and if it does, fix it.

Also, you might consider going back to the original parts for a 1000 rounds or so, and then try the new one.

Chris
 

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Whelen97 said:
An internal extractor issue isn't necessarily something that is going to get 'broken in'.

But the unfitted slide release is the first thing to fix. THAT could be causing all or most of the problems.
 

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blackheart3a said:
New to the forum as well as my new 1911.

Just Bought a Kimber Warrior...Changed the Slide release to a Wilson Extended one...

I put about 200 rounds through it before cleaning it. While shooting I had a few malfunctions to include failure to extract, failure to seat round completley in battery, and even the slide failed to stay locked back after the magazine was empty.
Actually it is a slide lock, not a release. Use the slingshot method to load the first round. That is, pull the slide fully back and let fly. This method wiill help with the return to battery. Using the slide lock to release the slide (Hollywood style) may eventualy wear the slide notch. Then there will be no slide lock back after the last shot. Pappy007
 

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Warrior Problems

My Warrior had similiar problems.....now it works great and is my favorite gun!

Here's my .2 cents for you:

1. Be sure to hold the gun tight!
2. Re-install factory slide stop (extended slide stops are unnecessary-Bill Wilson says so himself in his book titled: The Combat Auto on page 85 and he's in the business to sell parts.....you could be tapping it up unintentinally during firing or it needs fitting - not all drop in parts are drop in in all cases).
3. Always use "sling shot method" to chamber first round - (pull slide back on a loaded magazine and let it go - do not ride slide forward with your fingers).
3. Select and use only three mags at first and mark them to see if one mag is causing the problems.
4. Alway use quality ammo Made in USA (no aluminum cases or bulk reloads from unknown origin) stick to 230gr ball during break in period of 500rds. The Warrior is a high performance gun and requires quality ammo just like a hi performance car needs quality gas to perform as designed.
5. Fire 500 rds to break in pistol before changing anything (I personally thought the break in period idea was B.S. because every Glock & Sig and I've ever owned worked great from day one with no break in period required - so did my Kimber TLE II & Pro Carry II) but now I believe it makes sense with any gun because you'll iron out any potential problems....as you are now doing.
6. Lube the gun with CLP/Breakfree or Tetra Gun oil and do as directed in the owners manual....more is not better....use lube as directed in manual.


Now if you are still experiencing problems after you've done all the above....then send it back to Kimber w/details outlining your problem(s).

If gun is now working fine I would recommend only the following upgrades:

1. replace recoil spring w/Wolf 18.5 conventional spring (do not use shok-buff) gun will cycle fine with 185gr & 230gr jacketed ammo and it will reduce stress on the frame.
2. use Wilson mags exclusively...Kimber factory mags have worked great for me but traditional type magazines can sometimes ram the feed ramp when loading last round from magazine and that can't be good for the long run
3. If you like the gun I recommend getting it re-finished. The Kim-Pro factory finish wears off immediately....
4. New grips, if you don't like the Mr. Peanut grips that come on the Warrior....I didn't at first....but I do now.
5. Slide stops - Kimber slide stops are made using MIM (Machine Injection Molding??) process which is advertised to be 85% as strong as slide stop milled from bar stock and is suppose to be good enough....slide stops not only lock open the slide on last round but also serve as a pivot point for the barrel link and barrel lugs....this is a high stress area and I believe deserves a slide stop as durable as possible....I recommend the Wilson Bullet Proof slide stop non-extended because it's mild from bar stock, is slighty over sized for added strengh, and has detent cut into it that prevents premature slide lock back. Add to your gun before sending it off for re-finish.

J. Dillinger
 

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blackheart3a said:
Changed the Slide release to a Wilson Extended one.
I use one on my Custom II and haven't had a single problem with it. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I changed to the Wilson Extended slide stop after about 4000 rounds with the original slide stop.
 

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I just installed a Wilson slide stop on a pistol I'm building. It was rubbing the slide right out of the bag. Just like I had brakes on the slide.
 

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Kruzr said:
You need to keep shooting it and keep it VERY WELL lubed. The failures you describe are what happens if a gun needs lube or there is too much friction. Shooting more with good lube will solve it if that's the problem.

The failure to lock back could be the slide stop so if I were you, I'd put the factory one back in until the gun is fully broken in and you know if there are problems or not.

I'd also suggest you check the extractor tension since it's an internal and easy to adjust. The types of failures you are having may also be due to an extractor with too little tension.

Good Luck.
This is correct information! And may I add that I would use a good grease for the rails....I use Tetra grease, it works well and its cheap at the Walmart. I wish you good luck
 

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I also have a Warrior and am in the break in stages . . . I have had no problems with it in the first 400 rounds.

All suggestions that have been made are good ones to follow. And I'll add mine now just for GP's

1. Never take any new gun out and shoot it without first taking it apart, inspecting it and cleaning and lubing it.

2 .Proper cleaning and lubrication prior to shooting is a must cause these guns have super tight fittings. I prefer Militec for lubing or another great choice is FP10. With either of these you don't need to grease the rails (Tetra grease is good stuff but I use it on firearms that aren't as tight as a Kimber).

3. I still can't figure why someones spends a grand on a great pistol and without even shooting starts swapping out parts. Keep it original until you've at least shot it and broken it in (kimbers suggest at least 500 rounds, some guys suggest 1000). Then you'll know what really needs to be changed. (I not talking about cosmetic changes like grips, or sights, but just the internal parts) Unless there is a faulty part which is always a possibility how are you going to tell if you've got a factory problem or not.

4. For breaking in don't use reloads and stick with 230gr FMJ ammo (WB is good enough for break in purposes) from a good maker. When chambering a round I don't use the slide stop, and not slam the slide into battery, I prefer to engage the slide by racking it fully.

5. And keep on reading and asking questions here, the guys are always full of suggestions (some that actually work too! :biglaugh: )

Along with the other suggestions I think you've got a good start on getting the best out of your Warrior. Good Luck

RC
 

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Now here's an original idea. Let's quit jacking with new guns, and then act like something is wrong with them from the factory. I like to change parts as much as the next guy, but I'm not going to change the slide release, take it to the range, have a few stoppages, and then complain about an unreliable gun.
 

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To put it up front and be blunt......RTFM!!!!!!!!!! Sorry, I need to vent.. Pappy007
 
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