1911Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks -

The Monolith that I've been waiting for for over 4 and half months finally arrived yesterday. I've yet to get to the range, but I have a question for you Les Baer (and other 1911) folks.

I managed to completely destroy the bushing wrench that Baer sent with the gun. The bushing on the pistol completely shredded the soft plastic wrench, and now the wrench is useless. Of course, the bushing was turned a quarter of a turn when this happened, and I was stuck without a tool to move it back. I ended up using a cloth and a set of vice grips (I can see everyone wincing now..) to move the bushing back to where it belonged. Unfortunately, as you can guess, the bushing got marred up a little.

I'm not entirely worried about that, because hey, it's a gun, and it's going to get abused a lot more than that at the range. :) What I AM worried about is being able to disassemble the pistol when it's time to clean. Do you folks have a recommended bushing wrench y'all like? Something tough enough to turn the bushing, but not hard enough to gouge it?

Thanks!

jas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
Brownells sells an aluminum bushing wrench. It is probably a good idea to have some type of metal wrench as well. I have a Baer SRP that has the Baercoat on it..even the bushing was coated. I have to use the aluminum wrench on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Originally posted by Robe:
Brownells sells an aluminum bushing wrench. It is probably a good idea to have some type of metal wrench as well.
Thanks much. I think I found the one you were refering to. :) Hopefully I can turn that bushing now without putting any more teeth marks in it.

jas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,572 Posts
My new monolith with the 1.5" guarantee can move the bushing with no problems using the supplied wrench. It is no tighter then my Premier II.

------------------
10mm and 357 Sig; the best things since the 38 Super!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by Peter M. Eick:
My new monolith with the 1.5" guarantee can move the bushing with no problems using the supplied wrench.
Sounds like we have similar pistols. However, this bushing is on there tight. Maybe it'll loosen up a bit after some rounds are cycled through it (which I'm just dying to do. :))

jas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
With use it should loosen up too. It may have been installed in the gun with no oil or lube at all. Once out, put some kind of oil or grease that will not run out on the bushing before installing it. Mine was like this and was considerably easier after the second time with grease on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
If you take the slide off the frame first , or at slide lock , it makes it easier when the slide is not locked in the foreward position . That is when everything is the tightest .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
i was going to mention what superdave said, i have two colts, and i never take the bushing of first. i always take the slide stop out and slide the frame (hold on to the spring!!) out complete, then take the spring out and the front comes apart much easier.

i'm surprised it isn't taught this way (that i have heard) since its easier (for me anyway)

russel the cop

------------------
CHANCE FAVORS THE PREPARED MIND....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
In addition to locking the slide back or pulling it off the frame completely, you can also retract the slide about 1" so the barrel bushing isn't locking up on the barrel surface, and turn the bushing that way. It's usually easier at that point, anyway. Naturally that won't work if you have a one-piece FLGR installed.

[This message has been edited by TEX'N (edited 07-02-2001).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
TEX'N has it right. Withdrawing the slide enough to cause the barrel to drop out of battery will make a big difference. I followed the instructions included with my TRS and ruined the plastic wrench too. I used a steel wrench but that removed the bluing from the plug. Bought a new plug and use the proceedure as described by the TEX'N and the blueing is not marred at all. A tooth brush removes any plastic from the plug thatis left by the wrench. I'm suprised the Les does not instruct users to use TEX'N's method.
Martyu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
The monolith has a dust cover that extends to the end of the barrel, so that if the slide is retracted at all, the bushing is inaccessible because of the dust cover. I use an aluminum wrench on my monolith, and with time it becomes easier to turn.

------------------
Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or petty, never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense. Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the enemy. Churchill

[This message has been edited by stanmog (edited 08-13-2001).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by stanmog:
The monolith has a dust cover that extends to the end of the barrel, so that if the slide is retracted at all, the bushing is inaccessible because of the dust cover. I use an aluminum wrench on my monolith, and with time it becomes easier to turn.
Stan hit it right on the head. Because of the dust cover, if you move the slide back at all, there's no way to get the wrench (or anything else) around the bushing.

I finally was able to get an aluminum wrench, and with some amount of force, the bushing turned. :) I have since actually gouged out part of the aluminum wrench as well. It just doesn't want to turn without Herculean force.

Thanks for the help, everyone.

jas
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top