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Well, I finally got my press going and here is the deal.

.45 ACP Winchester Brass
Winchester 230 Gr. FMJ
CCI 300
4.0 Gr. Bullseye

I am going off of the lyman reloading manual for the 230 TMJ with bullseye (3.8 gr. suggested starting weight). Do I need to slightly alter my load for the difference between TMJ and FMJ of the same weight? I started out by over-belling all 50 of my case mouths, which I am hoping I can get back into specs by going with a slight taper crimp? Can't I? Or do I have to break everything down and re-size? I have a Wilson case guage so I think next time I will only do a couple of cases at a time until I get the hang of this. The bullets have been seated to an o.a.l. of 1.275" per the recipe for this bullet weight which is also the saami maximum. Is this correct? How close do I have to stay to the o.a.l. for any given recipe? Should I seat the cases a little deeper? Will that cause pressure/primer issues?

Help!!!

Thanks in advanced
 

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Dave, I'm a rookie too, but I'm sure the regulars will show up soon to give you the benefit of their experience. As far as mine goes, I NEVER seat shorter than the manual recommends. I also think FMJ = TMJ, but I could be wrong. I wouldn't use a taper crimp on .45 ACP as the round uses the case mouth to index in the chamber. My Dillon book says bell only .020 and then slighty crimp back to .471". (maybe I should look that mearsurement up again?) Be patient, the cavalry will be here soon. Good luck, have fun, but follow the manual closely.

Steve
 

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TMJ is basically FMJ with the bottom of the bullet jacketed as well. Are these bullets the "plated" or "jacketed"?

From what you describe I think you're doing ok. If I were you I would try the following assuming you have primed the resized, expanded brass :
1. Add the appropriate amount of powder
2. Adjust the seating die to only seat the bullet without crimping
3. Seat the bullets to the desired OAL
4. Adjust the seating die to not do any seating but rather to do the crimping. (this assumes a die that does both tasks)
5. Adjust the crimp die to remove the bell shape that you got when you expanded the case mouths.
6. Crimp all the cartridges with approximately 0.002" crimp

A change in Overall Length can effect pressure dramatically. Therefore don't get too carried away deviating from the reloading manual.
 

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You might want to seat the bullet a little deeper. 1.275 is the SAMMI Max OAL. I seat mine to 1.250. If 4.0 is the max charge weight you might want to decrease it .1 or.2
 

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Bullseye is good powder, but for starting out, I'd recommend something that fills up the cas a little more. That will keep minor variations from affecting your consistency so much in the beginning. W231 is a good way to go, using about a grain more powder. Unique or even HS6 would be best. You'll probably get better ammo from a consistency standpoint. I'd use 1.260 to start for your OAL. Get a case guage. That will tell you if your ammo will chamber. A small change in your sizer or other setting can make a big difference that a case guage will show. A Wilson or Dillon Case guage is indespensible.
 

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I've used a lot of Bullseye for 45s, both FMJ and TMJ. TMJ bullets, as said above, just have the jacket on the bottom of the bullet so no lead is exposed.
My normal load with 230 grain FMJ/TMJ bullets is 5.4 grains of Bullseye with an OAL of 1.260". This load gives me an average of 860 fps with a 5" gun which is the same results I get from Remminton factory loads. The lightest load I've used was 4.4 grains which gave me 760 fps with a 5" gun. Have you tried the 1.275" in your magazines, I'm not sure they'll fit.

As BeaverJack said, you want a powder that fills the case as much as possible to get better consistancy and so if you double charge the case the powder will run over.
 

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in your case (good one, ay?)

230g FMJ
4.0g Bullseye
OAL 1.245--1.265"; recommend 1.255" +/-.005"
Mouth crimp .469--.471"; recommend .470"

Recommend 5.0--5.5g W231/ 230g RN of any type for 'target/plinking' 45 ammo; LEE Carbide Factory Crimp die; OAL 1.255"; CCI300 or WLP; gauging all loaded rds, discarding any that appear questionable ("When in doubt throw it out" -- but put it into a recycle can for pulling down and/or scrap recovery); BreakFree CLP applied liberally if using Bullseye.
And wearing safety glasses during ALL reloading sessions.
 

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I'm not new to reloading but I'm just getting back at it after a 15 year break...also I just started reloading for 45 acp.

The OAL will depend on your pistol...I started at 1.270 and worked my way down, my gun likes 1.250. They feed smoother. If you set your OAL shorter than the book states...reduce the powder by 1/10th of a grain for every .01 that your shorten the round and work the powder back up slowly. ( this worked for me)

And some good advice I have gotten in the past couple of days is buy a chrono...use velocity to determine when you're getting close to the limit....its seems to be popular opinion that you will blow a case head before you see any primer flow in a 45 acp.
 

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Dave, I'm a rookie too, but I'm sure the regulars will show up soon to give you the benefit of their experience. As far as mine goes, I NEVER seat shorter than the manual recommends. I also think FMJ = TMJ, but I could be wrong. I wouldn't use a taper crimp on .45 ACP as the round uses the case mouth to index in the chamber. My Dillon book says bell only .020 and then slighty crimp back to .471". (maybe I should look that mearsurement up again?) Be patient, the cavalry will be here soon. Good luck, have fun, but follow the manual closely.

Steve
Steve, I think you may have a little transposition in your statement. Because a .45acp head spaces at the case mouth is why you want to use a taper crimp. Using a roll crimp may change OAL, cut plated bullets, all sorts of negative stuff. New to reloading the .45 myself, so, YMMV, but this is what I have gleaned in manuals, and these forums. Man, the Hornady TCD is slick. Good luck all, be safe and have fun:rock:
 

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Wilson, in his maintainance booklet, recommends 1.250 OAL. The crimp dimension is .469" at the case mouth. If you are using a bullet with a cannalure, disregard the OAL recommendations and seat it to the cannalure. Don't try to adjust loads by seating the bullet deeper and backing off on the charge. The minimum OAL spec is there for a reason.. That can create dangerous pressures. if you are using Lee dies, you won't have a choice as to what type of crimp you get. The crimp die will have either a roll or a taper crimp, depending on what is normally used on that round, revolver or semi.
 

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1.275" OAL sounds long and it might not feed in some magazines. Sig mags are well known for only feeding shorter bullets. I would try 1.260 OAL max.
 

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Well, I finally got my press going and here is the deal.

.45 ACP Winchester Brass
Winchester 230 Gr. FMJ
CCI 300
4.0 Gr. Bullseye

I am going off of the lyman reloading manual for the 230 TMJ with bullseye (3.8 gr. suggested starting weight). Do I need to slightly alter my load for the difference between TMJ and FMJ of the same weight? I started out by over-belling all 50 of my case mouths, which I am hoping I can get back into specs by going with a slight taper crimp? Can't I? Or do I have to break everything down and re-size? I have a Wilson case guage so I think next time I will only do a couple of cases at a time until I get the hang of this. The bullets have been seated to an o.a.l. of 1.275" per the recipe for this bullet weight which is also the saami maximum. Is this correct? How close do I have to stay to the o.a.l. for any given recipe? Should I seat the cases a little deeper? Will that cause pressure/primer issues?

Help!!!

Thanks in advanced
.45 ACP Winchester Brass
Winchester 230 Gr. FMJ
CCI 300
4.0 Gr. Bullseye

I am going off of the Lyman reloading manual for the 230 TMJ with Bullseye (3.8 gr. suggested starting weight). Do I need to slightly alter my load for the difference between TMJ and FMJ of the same weight?
As long as you are at or near the starting charge point you should be fine.

I started out by over-belling all 50 of my case mouths, which I am hoping I can get back into specs by going with a slight taper crimp? Can't I?
As long as you can get the case to fit in the seat and crimp die you should be ok.

Or do I have to break everything down and re-size?
I would try seating and crimping the components first.

I have a Wilson case gauge so I think next time I will only do a couple of cases at a time until I get the hang of this.
This would be helpful usually you set everything up using a couple of cases and bullets to get everything dialed then make minor adjustments as you load.

The bullets have been seated to an o.a.l. of 1.275" per the recipe for this bullet weight which is also the SAAMI maximum. Is this correct?
The answer is it could be, although some handloading data just gives the maximum overall length. My SAAMI reference manual list a .45ACP maximum of 1.275” and a minimum of 1.190” I have seen the minimum listed as low as 1.150 and loading even shorter in load manuals.
Depending on your gun and chamber it may agree or disagree with this OAL.
Some guns just will not tolerate cycling long or short .45ACP cartridges; most folks find a sweet spot for their guns with a given bullet.

How close do I have to stay to the o.a.l. For any given recipe?
You should have some room to work with, in most cases unless your using some exotic bullet design you should be safe at anything over 1.225” to 1.265” with the standard 230 grain FMJ bullet.

Should I seat the cases a little deeper?
I would try seating a little deeper, you may have problems with the magazine (as in getting the 1.275" cartridges into and cycling out of properly)you also might want to make a dummy round with no powder or primer and see if it cycles in your gun and magazines.

Will that cause pressure/primer issues?
With most of the load data the .45ACP is loaded with this is generally not a concern, just be reasonable. With your listed load charge weight you can load the bullet quite a bit shorter without much concern on creating an over pressure condition.
Good Luck
 

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When I start working up a new load or using a new bullet, I start by loading up a few blanks... No primer or powder. I play with this until I find an OAL that drops neatly into the chamber of MY GUN with a gentle taper crimp to smooth out the bell. I remove the barrel for this. Once I think I have it, I'll load up a few more blanks that I can play with in my assembled gun to see how easily they feed, etc. A gentle taper crimp will help with reliability... Your cartridges should drop into your removed barrel with a little "plonk."
After that, I load up a series of cartridges starting at the lowest recommended charge for my powder, (Bullseye,) and then take them out to the range and see how they shoot, paying careful attention to the accuracy and reliability of each load, also checking each load for any signs of high pressure.
Once I've settled on a "recipe" I stick with it. The only records I keep after this is a little card in each box stating the specifics of that cartridge.
If I ever want to make ANY CHANGES I start all over.
Marty
 
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