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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
is it ok to remove material from the upper lugs? i have a fusion match barrel and bushing and im using the smallest wilson link #1 and i have good lock up its just impossibly hard to link down when the slide is on the frame. i also notice if my barrel bushing is upside down on my barrel it slides much easier than if lined up correctly. when lined up correctly it tends to bind at times. my upper lugs are showing high spots i just dont want to ruin my new barrel. any help would be great. thanks guys

i read the thread "gun not cycling". my slide stop pin is not binding on the lower legs. i marked every contact point with a sharpie only high spot seems to be on the upper lugs more so on the front one. if im using the shortest link what else can it be???

please help this is my first build and its been a complete nightmare... i had to fit every thing including the mag release.
 

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If that bushing is one of the EGW "Angle-Bored" ones, then it would act as you describe. Or, Fusion may have fit the bushing to your barrel properly and it's just a tad tight in ID in the full lockup position.

You said your slide stop pin doesn't bind on the lower lugs...does it rest on them when the barrel is locked up? And does the pin interfere with the front shoulder of those lugs when moving from recoil into battery position? With that #1 link, it probably does and you'll need to round off the shoulder a bit to clear it. You might want to try a little longer link first to see if that resolves the problem.

And no, don't remove metal from the top barrel lugs until you know where to remove it and WHY to do it at all.

Bob
 

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Barrel Timing

I am going through the same thing and I found that Brownells sells a -3 and a -6 Link. I ordered them today...
 

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please help this is my first build and its been a complete nightmare... i had to fit every thing including the mag release.
The "Will THIS part drop right in?" guys should reference your quote before they begin. :)

On your barrel problem, I'd start the fitting process all over again. Without the frame included, does the barrel lock up easily in the slide? Are you getting any spring as it goes into battery? Are the sides of the hood fit properly so the barrel doesn't twist? With the frame added and the link completely removed, does the barrel STILL lock up easily? Without the link, you'll have to help it come out of battery. Are the lower lugs bearing evenly on the slidestop pin? Have you measured the amount of engagement you're getting between the upper barrel and slide lugs? Did you check to make sure the lower lugs stop on the frame vertical impact surface and not on the link? And to repeat Bob's question, is your slidestop pin impacting on the corner of your lower lugs during cycling?

Sorry, but there are NO magic answers. Changing link sizes on a whim is no solution. Do you have any sort of a book or manual to help you along?:confused:
 
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