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I just finished shooting my new springfield mil-spec for the first time. After I cleaned it up I started lubing and realized I didn't really know what the most important places to lube were. I tried to lube everywhere metal might touch metal, which seems like a lot of places on a 1911.

1. What are the most important places to lube on a 1911?

2. Is there a product that lubes the entire gun quickly, or is it better to put a little oil on a gun patch and individually lube each spot (which is my normal practice)?
 

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What I do is one drop on my barrel and rub it all around (err....nevermind. Anyways). I also put drops on my slide rails and also one drop on my finger and lube the inside of the bushing, thumb safety, and slide pin.
 

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Here is a url to a web page that shows good examples of where to oil a 1911 style pistol. I would add that you should put a couple drops on the front of a cocked hammer to let it run down onto the sear.
http://www.lava.net/~perrone/bullseye/oiling.html
 

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another okie, nice to meet ya, where from? email at [email protected]

anyway, the best thing is to rub a drop on the barrel, (uh yeah, nevermind) and i rub some on the slide rails on the frame, i also put a drop on each side of the slide rails and then sit the slide on the muzzle end and let it run down the slots. i put a little on the barrel lugs, and on the bar of the slide stop. one thing i don't do is oil the firing pin. putting a drop on the cocked back hammer so a little will get on the sear is a good idea too.

the thing to do is when you have the slide off, look at the slide and frame and put a little coat of oil anywhere you see wear from the parts moving against each other.

russel the cop

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CHANCE FAVORS THE PREPARED MIND....
 

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Hell, I pretty much douse the whole gun until its swimming with oil, then wipe off the excess and drips with a dry oil rag (That looks exactly like an old cotton T-shirt).

Are there any drawbacks to oiling too much? I can't think of any offhand.


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-Electric Armadillo-
 

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Originally posted by Electric_Armadillo:
Are there any drawbacks to oiling too much? I can't think of any offhand.

Well, too much oil can attract and hold grit, dust and dirt. Enough grit, dust and dirt can act like a fine lapping compound on your components, and cause premature wear.
 

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Originally posted by shane45-1911:
Well, too much oil can attract and hold grit, dust and dirt. Enough grit, dust and dirt can act like a fine lapping compound on your components, and cause premature wear.

ROGER THAT! I progressed from over oiling with Rem oil to Remington Dry lube, to Tetra grease and oil. The Tetra treatment is under testing right now, so I won't give any details yet. To premature.

This all resulted from my gun "gumming up" and FTFing, and all the worst parts of a trouble shooting column in a gun manual.
 

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I've owned and cleaned 1911 models for more years than I care to remember. When I got the videos from Wilsons Gun Shop, I found out just how little I knew. I figured as much as Bill Wilson has shot, and the number of guns he has built, he ought to know how to clean one! I'm also using his Ultma-lubes (grease and oil) on all my .45's.
I think the video is about $20, but well worth the money.

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I detail strip and lube my Colt with Rig every once in awhile, but I still get paranoid about grit collecting and forming in the internals. Is there an aerosal product on the market that you could just aim down a cocked hammer and blast the internals clean without a detail strip? I don't like to detail strip because it adds to the takedown marks.
 

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Originally posted by emmo:
I don't like to detail strip because it adds to the takedown marks.
You're not doing something correctly if you leave marks every time you detail strip.
 

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Well, the frame behind the side stop always gets scratched when the slide stop is put back in, unless there is some way to keep the plunger depressed while the slide stop is being put back in.
 

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Originally posted by emmo:
...unless there is some way to keep the plunger depressed while the slide stop is being put back in.
Absolutely!!! Brownell's sells a tool that works well, so does a Q-tip with the cotton removed. Push in the plunger with the Q-tip, and put your slide stop in as you keep the plunger pushed in. Seat the slide stop as far as it will go, with the Q-tip behind the slide stop, still pushing the plunger. You should be able to seat the slide stop enough to hold the plunger back, then pull the Q-tip out of the way, and push the slide stop the rest of the way up and in.
 

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The address Baer 1911 is perfect. Only I use tetra grease instead of oil because it stays in place where as oil runs away. DO NOT OIL THE FIRING PIN!!! there is no need and can only cause problems. I lived in Florida for two decades and there one had to worry about himidity and salts attacking the steel, so oil was a good thing. Here in Colorado, Oil can freeze your pistol. the firing pin most of all. Oil attracts dirt, dust and grit, so it has to be changed just like in your car. Your extractor doesn't need to be oiled either, in case you were interested!
duh.
Daniel


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1 peter 5:8
 

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oil is always a debris magnet.

Tetra is good, but i found TW-25B gives more - performance and protection. besides, Tetra smells.
 

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I REALLY like Tetra products. Unlike most lubes(Rem-Oil the near exception)it dries to a very slick and dry layer. In an AR-15 it can get very,very hot and still no malfs. In My 1911's it feels noticably smoother(grease and lube by Tetra) BTW, the new version does not smell like bad, well....never mind....
 
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