Hola everyone. I am a lefty shooter and have recently developed a problem with my 1911s. I'm experiencing a bunch of FTFs where the slide stop is partially pushed out and is locking the slide back before it can chamber a new round. It is remedied by ejecting the mag and pushing the slide back until the slide release pops back in. Seems to happed more on the last few rounds of a mag as well. I think I have somehow changed my shooting grip and am letting my right (support hand) thumb slide forward on the fram until it slightly pushes on the slide release nub, causing it to slide out as the slide travels back after firing. I want to just file down that protruding nub so I can't push it anymore, and use a punch to get it out during dissassembly. My question (finally got to it) is if I can just file it down flush to the frame, or does the strenght/function of the slide release rely on that last little bit sticking out of the right side of the frame. My guess is that it is there for ease of dissassembly and has no particular use. Also, the ejectors of both of my 1911s (Kimber CDP Pro and 70's COlt Govt) are loose. They don't come off, but they do wiggle a bit. Is this normal? No ejection problems to date on either pistol. THanks.
Nudging out the slide stop during firing.
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Yes you can, and as a south paw probably should trim the slide stop flush with the frame. anything that extends beyond the frame will offer no strength to the part.
It may be hard to file though as it is probably in the 48 rc range. Also it may be a little harder to reasemble without the smaller point going into the link.
Ejectors that are loose or not pinned can run a long time except on some light weight slides, like some Gold Cups and Lt weight commanders where there is a scallop cut inside the slide. In these cases you may have a problem on your hands!
Springfield has taken to just locktiting them in. If you do locktite it in the advantage is that the force of being hit is taken by both pins into the frame.
Hope this helps
geo ><>
It may be hard to file though as it is probably in the 48 rc range. Also it may be a little harder to reasemble without the smaller point going into the link.
Ejectors that are loose or not pinned can run a long time except on some light weight slides, like some Gold Cups and Lt weight commanders where there is a scallop cut inside the slide. In these cases you may have a problem on your hands!
Springfield has taken to just locktiting them in. If you do locktite it in the advantage is that the force of being hit is taken by both pins into the frame.
Hope this helps
geo ><>
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Is this a added detail that would benifit even a right hand shooter?I'm having a custom gun built and wonder if this is something that I might like to have done.Any real benefit besides cosmetic?
SHOKz
SHOKz
Are you sure you are pushing out the slide stop? I am also left handed and was having the same problem with my Kimber.
I installed a wilson "Bullit Proof" slide stop and the problem went away. They have a built in detent that the plunger fits into which stops premature slide lock. If your gun is stainless they can cut the detent in a stainless slide stop as the "bullit proof" only comes in blue. My problem was occuring with ball ammo when I was down to 2 or 3 rounds.
I installed a wilson "Bullit Proof" slide stop and the problem went away. They have a built in detent that the plunger fits into which stops premature slide lock. If your gun is stainless they can cut the detent in a stainless slide stop as the "bullit proof" only comes in blue. My problem was occuring with ball ammo when I was down to 2 or 3 rounds.
Eljay45, you are right, it usually happens on the last few rounds of a magazine. But I have only noticed it since I went to a Kimber CDP with smooth CC grips, but now it happens with the Kimber, my Colt gov't with textured grips, and a full size Kimber with rubber grips. I have shot my colt for 3 years without this malfunction. I suspect that the CC grips somehow made me alter my hands so that my right thumb now rides along the frame far enough to nudge the slide stop, but it takes most of a mag (I usally shoot to slide stop without readjusting my grip) for this to happen. I am going to go to a Wilson BP slide stop because I like the contour better, but I need a quick fix until I can get one. BTW, did your BP slide stop fix out of the box, or sis it need tuning?
Well, I dremeled the slide stop pin to be flush with the right side of the frame (damn, that metal is tough!!). I shot this weekend, went through about 100 rounds of fast shooting with no malfunctions. So far so good. We'll see how well it lasts during class tonight. Later.
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I remember seeing (If I can remember the URL I'll post it) a custom gunsmith that cuts the slide stop flush with the frame AND chamfers (counterbores?) the slide stop pin hole so you could still push the pin out without tools. Very slick idea so it's not unheard of.
Tony G.
Tony G.
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80 Posts
I remember seeing (If I can remember the URL I'll post it) a custom gunsmith that cuts the slide stop flush with the frame AND chamfers (counterbores?) the slide stop pin hole so you could still push the pin out without tools. Very slick idea so it's not unheard of.
I also had a mag that was pushing the pin to the left with the follower but a few swipes with a file on the follower cured that. Check the slide stop and see if there are marks from the rounds hitting it.
Sounds like you've solved the problem but it'd be good to know if you have any contact there at all.
Tony G.
I also had a mag that was pushing the pin to the left with the follower but a few swipes with a file on the follower cured that. Check the slide stop and see if there are marks from the rounds hitting it.
Sounds like you've solved the problem but it'd be good to know if you have any contact there at all.
Tony G.
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