Update to my Commander pics.. had a real struggle finding the grips I wanted for my pistol. Ruger wouldn't sell to me, no-one in GB imports or stocks them. Ended up getting them off a guy from Porto Rico (I think he is) via Ebay. Having said that they are truly excellent and make my SR1011 complete.
My custom Ruger SR-1911, model 6720, Talo Night Watchman, .45ACP Lightweight Commander type pistol:
It took me quite some time to save up for all the parts and the refinishing, but my rebuild project is finally complete. I ended up replacing every factory part except for the frame, slide and barrel (and even these were modified); some for fit, many for function, others for longevity. Even the integral plunger tube was ground-off and replaced with a conventional steel, pinned tube. When the frame was stripped of its anodizing prior to being hard chromed, it was noticed that the hole in the cast-in tube was not centered and that there was a crack along the thinnest part of the tube, so off it came. Apparently Ruger applies a thick anodized layer to their aluminum frame 1911s, because the crack was not visible until the anodizing was removed. I can say that the anodized layer was quite thick, because after it was stripped and the frame went for its first dip in the hard chrome tank, the slide-to-frame fit was noticeably looser than in its as-new condition. So back to the chromer it went, and the frame was left in the tank until a thicker hard chrome top layer was achieved. The slide and small parts were refinished with Cerakote Elite E-110 Midnight.
The Smith & Alexander grip safety was a drop-in replacement for the factory scalloped beavertail, and the S&A is much more comfortable to me when shooting than the original. The orange outline Trijicon front sight is fast to pick-up from the draw, and the ported barrel and slide allows me to keep rapid fire double taps in one ragged hole at seven yards with .45ACP +P ammunition. Thin Cocobolo Smith & Alexander grips matched perfectly with the slim S&A Mag-Guide, and along with the short STI trigger, allows my stubby fingers a proper grip. The Cylinder & Slide ignition parts resulted in an ideal 3 1/2# trigger pull, with minimal effort. The factory titanium firing pin was replaced with a Harrison Design steel pin for reliable ignition and an extra power Wolff firing pin spring was installed at the same time.
I chose to use an ambidextrous thumb safety from Novak because the size, shape and location of the paddles is the closest that I could find to matching the no-longer-available King’s 201A that I have on my other 1911s. Drawing, disengaging the safety and rapidly acquiring a sight picture is all about muscle memory, and I’m too old to learn something new (and I despise the look of the ambis that rely on a tab under the grip to hold it in-place). A Wilson Combat Concealed Carry magazine catch along with a stiffer Wolff magazine release spring insures that the magazine won’t be inadvertently ejected when carrying concealed. The funnel of the slim S&A Mag-Guide was blended with the factory frame bevel, and the sharp points of the checkering were dulled slightly so that any cover garment would not stick to it. Challis hex-drive extra short grip screw bushings and Torx drive screws with O-rings were installed to keep the screws and bushings from backing out and preventing possibly stripping the aluminum frame threads. A 10-8 .200” billet slide stop was chosen to improve lock-up and reliability. Up front a Bunker Arms Radial Bore Thick Flange Bushing was fit to the Ruger barrel. An Ed Brown full-length guide rod adds a little weight to the front of the pistol and eliminates any spring bind for a smoother recoil pulse. The extractor, ejector and pins are all EGW items as is their flat-bottom firing pin stop. I am very pleased with the overall outcome. Let me know what you think 🤔