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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any way to make a Govt. Model on a Commander frame without having a gap between the dust cover and the recoil spring tunnel?
The only way I can thing of, is to have the slide cut and welded. Some 'smiths have recommended against welding a slide. However, Clark, meaning the gunsmithing business of the late Jim Clark, offers the cut and weld and a reasonable price. Surely if the weld was likely to fail, they would not willingly do it. Comments?

Thanks,
Neal
 

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I did this to one of mine when I first started taking files and such to guns. I made a little piece and silver-brazed it in there, just a little extension of the recoil spring tunnel of the slide. I was worried that since it was right there in the impact zone of slide to frame that it wouldn't hold up. Actually it did, although I would never count on it to do so, and I would not do it again. I like the idea of a special reverse plug much better; that seems like a solid and reliable way to do this (if you must do this).

Ned
 

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Clark offered to cut and weld the slide?
are you sure they (Just want to clarify, Not trying to offend anyone) meant the back and not the front? Clark for many years has added to govt slides to make long slides. this is out of harms way if you will. but to cut the back and put it back together, dress inside the rails, clean up the barrel tunnel at a stress area like that? I am impressed!

I would side with the trick reverse plug guy also. Moving the scallop cut back to the new spot would be a little risky so the end gun would be a little off though.
I spoke with a guy that made an alum slide and wore a helmet to test it with. If the front breaks off, Just tell me what keeps you from getting the slide in the face?

How is your dental insurance???


geo ><>
 

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If they are going to cut, to presumably shorten the slide to eliminate the gap, and weld it back together, wouldn't it make more sense to lengthen a commander slide slide then shorten a government slide?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What I am talking about is adding length to the front of the slide. If they can take a 5" slide and add on to the front to make a 6" slide, then in theory, they can take a 4.25" Commander slide and add onto the front and make it a 5" slide. I have sent Clark an e-mail inquiring about this, but it may be next week before I get a reply. When I say cut, that means they cut the front off of a slide, which is sacrificed for the front end, and weld it onto the front of the customer's slide. I see in my original post I did not describe it correctly. I just wanted to see if there was any other way to get the end result, which is a 5" lightweight Colt. I have a "thing", fetish, obsession, whatever you want to call it, for lightweight 1911s. I have one on my side right now, but I would prefer a full Govt. Model size. It's a matter of balance and feel. The factory options are SA, Kimber, or the Wilson KZ-45. Right now, I would prefer a Colt. Don't want to go into why, as that would start battles that have already been fought.
Thanks for the replies.

Neal
 

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Neal, go with a Gov't slide and the long reverse plug. Now that I see what you meant, I still don't like it, mostly because it is hard, next to impossible to weld on that slide extension and have it come out so perfect that it's totally undetectable. Besides, you can get that plug made and in your hand much quicker, with less risk and for less money.

How about a short compensator to bring it out to G-model length? Shorten the Commander slide just a tad, and between that and the dif between Gov and Commander lengths, a little comp? (Although I don't think it's a good idea on a really-truly carry gun).
 

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There may also a couple of other problems. For one, the slide rails on the commander frame are shorter than the gov't rails. Secondly (and maybe more importantly) the recoil guide channel is shorter on the commander model. For example, if you go the other way (from a gov't to a commander) you have to shorten the recoil guide rod channel. I don't know if the travel for the recoil guide rod will be sufficient. You may be opening yourself up to a boatload of functioning problems that could cost a lot of money to straighten out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ned,
The comp gun you suggest is done by Chuck Rogers. And, the photos of this conversion that were published in a gun magazine back in about 1996 were impressive. I was going to have this done on a Commander, however, I have since changed my mind about having a comp on a defensive gun.

Howardk,
The points you mention are just why I thought making the original Commander slide longer would be the best way to get the desired results.

donw,
See my second post on this thread for the answer to your question.
 

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Yeah, better to have no comp on a defensive gun. Some guys like the hybrid for it-- hybrid or comp, seems like a good thing in practice with ear protection and a good Weaver or other stance (I know how to spell "other" but even though I'm pretty good at trig wasn't sure about that other word that describes a triangle with three equal sides) with the thing at arm's length in front of you. Other than that-- say in an enclosed space and struggling chest-to-chest with somebody who has gotten the drop on you-- you manage to get it out and trigger a shot with your face over the comp-- bang, you are deaf and blind, and you didn't need the comp/ports for a quick follow-up shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Received an answer from Clark Custom Guns today. They can do it ! Guess I'm looking for a Colt Lightweight Commander as of now.

Cheers,
Neal
 
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