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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay I'm coming to some of the pros here on the forum for an answer that I can't figure out using the reloading books I have on hand. My son was gifted some old components, one of which are a couple of boxes that are marked 38. What would these be used for? 38 special? 38 super? 380 auto maybe? The dia. listed on the box and the weight of the bullets doesn't line up with what I find in my books. Any help anyone with more experience than I have will be grateful and very much appreciated.
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The box says "357". I would assume that is a reference to the diameter since all .38 jacketed bullets I've measured have been .357. Use your calipers and see if that is what you get.
I'm sure it would do real well in 38spl... maybe .357. Keep in mind that there are some warnings about high velocity, light bullets in some firearms. I believe it has something to do with erosion of the forcing cone. I'm sure others can chime in on that one. Or point out my error. Enjoy
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. That's the problem. None of the books I have list that weight for a bullet diameter in those two calibers.
 

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Doesn't the 9mm use the .357 diameter bullet? If so you would not have to worry about forcing cone erosion.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Reloader: I noticed that in my book. Naturally I would start with a lower powder load and work up. What do you think would be a good chrono reading for a semi comfortable recoil?
 

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Thanks. That's the problem. None of the books I have list that weight for a bullet diameter in those two calibers.
That is where the handloader must carefully extrapolate data and start low. Just beware of getting a squib... it can be hard to determine a start point that isn't too low sometimes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After doing some research, not a whole lot but some, I'm finding load charges and C.O.L. all over the place. And very little with the TiteGroup and HP-38 powder I have on hand. Might have to go to something like Universal or Unique in the Hodgdon family. Around here in Michigan where I live, the chances of finding these are a little better than other brands I have noticed.
 

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Best if you can fill the case as much as possible since loads are position sensitive. You might look at Universal, HS6, CFE Pistol or Autocomp, thinking that the heavier charges will fill more of the case.

Recoil depends some on the weight of the gun. Heavier guns will deliver less recoil. You might lookv at a velocity somewhere in the 1100 - 1150 fps and see how it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for that information. I know I'm asking for just about everything under the sun, but I have never tried reloading for revolvers and as of yet I don't even have the dies for them. Just at the beginning stages of my research. Seeing as I can't find any specific details on this bullet, what would be a realistic bullet C.O.L. measurement in your opinion. Or what type of bullet do you think would be pretty close?
 

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Thanks for that information. I know I'm asking for just about everything under the sun, but I have never tried reloading for revolvers and as of yet I don't even have the dies for them. Just at the beginning stages of my research. Seeing as I can't find any specific details on this bullet, what would be a realistic bullet C.O.L. measurement in your opinion. Or what type of bullet do you think would be pretty close?
COL is largely dependent on the case length with revolvers. Since a roll crimp is typically applied, the seating depth of the bullet must be to where the cannelure can recive the case mouth. In other words your case length is going to be the biggest determining factor. Make sure your cases are the same length, this will allow for a much more uniform roll crimp. If your dies are anything like my Lee and RCBS dies, a 1/2 turn should give you the light roll crimp that you need.

Autoloaders are usually a bit easier in this department... just seat a length that cycles good and remove the bell with a little taper.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I keep forgetting about the cannelure. I've mostly only loaded for 45acp and haven't had to worry about case length. I'm going to have to wrap my head around revolver ammo more for my research. Thanks for reinforcing that.
 

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What cartridges do you load for?

What powders do you have?

If you are looking for 38 spl/.357 general range ammo I'd use 125/110 grain load data and seat the bullet to the cannelure.

And yes .357 bullets can be used in 9mm without making any adjustment to load data.

Smiles,
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
At this time I've only loaded for 45acp and very little amount of 9mm. This thread is part of my research for loading 38/357 with my son. Very early in the process and at this time I only have TiteGroup and HP-38.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Another question comes to mind now. Have any of you ever had to trim your cases? SAMMI has a length of 1.155 for .38 special. I've read in one of my books to trim that down to 1.145?
 

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I'd use this as an opportunity to reload ammo on the lite side for friends and family that are new to shooting or recoil sensitive. Either powder will do since they are suitable for lite bullets.
Load some 38spl. in the area of 850 fps velocity. Unless you are shooting matches at the national level at 50 yards it is not necessary to trim 38 spl brass!

Smiles,
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No I've never had to even come close to needing to trim. I just read it in one of my books is all. I told my son to measure a bunch of cases he has. I don't have any to measure myself. He's not a new shooter by any means but if he can get the dies and a quick change set up for my Dillon 550 he will be a new reloader.
 
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