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SXT said:
ETA next time I wont offer my opinion, I say go ahead and spend 200.00 plus for checkering, if you dont like the feel, well at least it looks cool.
No need to get worked up, snob. While this whole snagging thing may be news to some people, it probably isn't news to everyone. Experience shows that checkering can indeed snag, and full-time CCW-types know that checkering can also be an abrading son-of-a-gun. Remember, checkering comes in several different grades of coarseness, with the newest DW's exhibiting checkering measured (by me) at approx. 16LPI. Now that's coarse! It also pays to remember that draws from concealment under extreme stress aren't always exactly, ahem, picture perfect. Mr. Murphy awaits...
 

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I put in my vote for the frontstrap. You will find that the pistol settles in your hand better when the trigger gaurd/frontstrap interface is raised - the DWs seem to be a bit beefy there, especially when compared to custom guns like Ed Brown, etc. I know that my hand is able to sit more evenly and all my fingers are in a row when this is done. I have 30LPI on a Colt Combat Commander and it works just fine for me. A gun is a tool - tools are meant to be used and will show wear.
 

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Snaggle:
What you may want to consider in your quest for FS/MSH modifications is your desire for increased grip (traction) vs. aesthetics. If it were me, I'd first consider which of these two aspects is most important, and let that weight heavily in my decision making. Further, is the gun primarily for carry, competition, range use, or is it a safe queen (let's be honest, it happens...)?

You may determine that aesthetics are #1, as you feel the need to jazz-up the gun a bit. Let's face it, looks are important. Sorry, but I can't help you much here, as looks are subjective. I would venture to say that most folks find both checkering and snakeskin patterns to be quite attractive, and find serrations, matting, and stippling to be nice, but somewhat less visually appealing. Note that I said most folks (certainly not all). Personally, I find any well-executed treatment to be visually appealing, other than coarse checkering, tiger-tooth stippling, or uniform (read: factory) serrations. Patterned serrations, on the other hand, can be very appealing, but do not necessarily come cheap.

You may determine that traction is most important, and this again, is shooter-specific. Some individuals want or need maximum grip, while others feel that their hands offer adequate grip strength, or choose to get their traction from the grips, as SXT indicates. Again, I can't offer you much assistance, except to say that some folks find coarse checkering to be so overly aggressive as to cause bleeding and tenderness with extended shooting sessions. Conversely, while some may find a gun that is smooth fore- and aft to be too 'slippery', others, especially CCW types and even some competition folks, actually desire smooth, for it's relative inability to snag and abrade, and for it's ability to offer a consistant grip purchase when time (draw speed) is a factor. Here, think sliding your hand into a proper position, quickly and with high repeatability. Again, some folks find a good compromise between speed and traction coming via the combination of smooth FS and MSH, combined with non-smooth grips. Personally, having come full-circle, I would probably fall into this category. Serrations, being aligned with the longitudinal axis of the frame, also allow a fast grip, plus additional traction.

Hopefully you can determine that there is no one "best" treatment. Personally, I wouldn't give a lot of credence to what anyone here offers; myself certainly included. It's much better to take the time to find out for yourself what works best for you, provided you have the ability to do so. Searching through the various forums here, you will certainly find something that trips your trigger, so to speak.

There has beeen a lot of commentary here about checkering and serrations, but I also wouldn't forget about stippling (also offered in many grades of coarseness) and matting. Before his accident, Terry Tussey used to offer a treatment that was kind of a combination between very fine stippling and matting, which I thought was about the most functional and attractive treatment for me, personally. He used to use an expensive maching, I believe called a 'Gravermeister' to execute this treatment, and he executed this treatment flawlessly. Need to see if I can pick up one of these. :rock: Anyhow, HTH, and good luck in your decision.
 

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Thanks everyone, I think its time to sit back and digest. Will let you know what I decide.:)
 

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Some info, please

I ordered a PM7-S a week or so ago and it arrived at the store yesterday. Of course I had to go "see" it. It has a serial number with a "CZ" behind it, obviously indicating that it was made post-CZ acquisition of Dan Wesson. Should that be a worry? I'm really excited about getting it and trying it out. Any feelings on whether or not the CZ/Dan Wesson thing is a good thing or a bad thing?

Thanks for any help!
 

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cleanman said:
I ordered a PM7-S a week or so ago and it arrived at the store yesterday. Of course I had to go "see" it. It has a serial number with a "CZ" behind it, obviously indicating that it was made post-CZ acquisition of Dan Wesson. Should that be a worry? I'm really excited about getting it and trying it out. Any feelings on whether or not the CZ/Dan Wesson thing is a good thing or a bad thing?

Thanks for any help!

I would be not be concerned at all.

Take care,
Art
 

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At the risk of further hi-jacking this thread, I'll comment to cleanman, that the post-CZ DWs are basically identical to the newest of the pre-CZ DWs, with 2 exceptions; the first being the 'CZ' suffix on the S.N., and the second being that the checkering, at least on the newest BOBs I've seen, is very coarse. Measured it at approx. 16 lines per inch. While the pre-CZ DWs exhibit relatively coarse, sharp checkering, I don't recall it being this coarse. Some will like it, and some will bleed... Have some in inventory right now, and will try to remember to post a pic or two later tonight.
 

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Checkering

Just picked up a new CZ/DW PM7-S this afternoon and measured the checkering on the mainspring housing...24 lines per inch. Looks very good and I can't wait to shoot it. I'll probably think about doing something to the front strap but not now. My budget needs to get over this one.
 

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Snagglepuss said:
Now that I have had my 10mm CBOB for a couple of weeks I am starting to dream about what to do next. I have an order coming tomorrow from Lancer ammo that should break her in just right. Then, I hope, its off to Dave for some work. I also should receive tomorrow a pair of olive/grey alumagrips. Heres where I need some helpful opinions. This particular CBOB has no checkering or serrations on the frontstrap or MSH. What would you do? Serrations, checkering, or nothing on the frontstrap and/or MSH. Or maybe something as yet unexplored by me. I love the feel of the checkering on my PM-1 but read in another thread that they are damaged relativly easily in comparison to serrations. Where should I go from here?:scratch:
Springfield armory did an awsome job of 25lpi checkering on my patriot for $125 shipped back to me. I really like it because it wraps the whole way around the fronstrap and goes high.
 

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16 lpi? Wow, that seems pretty coarse!
Without starting a tired debate, is checkering a cast frame any more or less difficult than a forged frame? I'm just wondering why they are offering such coarse checkering now.
 

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Thank you, Dave, for verifying my suspicions about the checkering on the new CBOBs. I thought it was about 12 lpi but could not get any confirmation. The vertical lines are cut somewhat more deeply than the horizontal lines which makes it look a little more coarse.
 
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