[GlockLeg]

This project is gong to be more fun than I thought it would be. Man, these frames are pretty raw. Not even the main spring housing area is cut. Anddd... I don't have a mill. Heh heh heh.

I also got a cheap trigger and slid it in, turned out to be a tight, gritty fit. So that needs work too.

Yeah, I was planning on doing the 1st build in 2023 and it looks like I was right to put it off. The P12 in 9mm with a 3 1/2" slide (pictured) will be 1st, followed by a steel framed p13 in 45acp (still in the mail).

The year will be all about gathering all the info, tools, and parts I'm going to need before I dig in. I've got an extra frame for each build just in case. Got the blueprint of an officer sized 1911 for reference and will search for any and all blueprints and specifications for the Paras.

So far I've got plenty of files, a few other tools, and that's it. Pretty sure no standard 1911 jig is going to fit these due to the fat grips, but that's okay. More fun without them.

I might buy the finished p10 Warthog frame too for reference, since it's the same as the other 2 from the grip safety on up... I think. Also, It might end up as my 3rd build. Lots of maybes going on here, but that's part of the process.

Lots of work to do on these and they'll be works of art when I'm finished. Going to call them the Red Devil 9 and the Red Devil 45. Both of them will have a red and black color scheme.

The Blue Angel 9 build bit the dust already. It was going to be for my wife and I was trying to make it like an EZ version, but the grips are way too fat for her. So she'll just keep the S&W 380 EZ. It's perfect for her.

That's all for now. Will show all the pics I can for the build as I go but it'll be super slow. Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

[warp2diesel]

Here are my two Para castings in progress.

I had to make my own jigs to do the mill work.
Next job is to make the cutter to cut the little slot for the mag release. On both the P-10 and P-13.

 

[Lowlander]

Yeah those Para castings aren't for the faint of heart. I have a couple I picked up to build on eventually too. Like you said I also picked up a 100% Warthog frame so that I could use it as a reference.

Just take your time and take care locating your slide stop and hammer pin holes. Once you have those properly located there are jigs you can purchase to help with the rest. Then you can get your deck height set too. If you need any references/info just let me know.

I'm milling the plunger tube off of my frames and drilling them for a standard plunger tube. All mine are undrilled and I think it's going to be easier to just install a standard tube. These do require a lot of work but they should make nice builds.

 

[GlockLeg]

Guys, I've got a ton of questions. Like, how did you find the parts for the Warthog? I'd love to build one but I know the grip safety and mainspring is smaller on it than the P12 and p13.

How the heck do you finish the mainspring housing area in the back of the grip? I know there's supposed to be a groove in there for the mainspring housing.

Also, I'm planning to use a drill press with an XY table to do the milling. There's only 2 frames to build as of now and one is made of aluminum. I figure that as long as I go nice and slow, I won't overtorque the press and burn it out. I've done metal work before, though not to this degree, so I know how slow to take it.

Any and all reference material is more than welcome. Personally, I'm going for a series 70 build as much as possible, though I know Paras were series 80. Right now I'm trying to figure out if the blank LDA slide I bought used the large extractor of the smaller one.

 

[japsco113]

View attachment 625435

View attachment 625436

This project is gong to be more fun than I thought it would be. Man, these frames are pretty raw. Not even the main spring housing area is cut. Anddd... I don't have a mill. Heh heh heh.

I also got a cheap trigger and slid it in, turned out to be a tight, gritty fit. So that needs work too.

Yeah, I was planning on doing the 1st build in 2023 and it looks like I was right to put it off. The P12 in 9mm with a 3 1/2" slide (pictured) will be 1st, followed by a steel framed p13 in 45acp (still in the mail).

The year will be all about gathering all the info, tools, and parts I'm going to need before I dig in. I've got an extra frame for each build just in case. Got the blueprint of an officer sized 1911 for reference and will search for any and all blueprints and specifications for the Paras.

So far I've got plenty of files, a few other tools, and that's it. Pretty sure no standard 1911 jig is going to fit these due to the fat grips, but that's okay. More fun without them.

I might buy the finished p10 Warthog frame too for reference, since it's the same as the other 2 from the grip safety on up... I think. Also, It might end up as my 3rd build. Lots of maybes going on here, but that's part of the process.

Lots of work to do on these and they'll be works of art when I'm finished. Going to call them the Red Devil 9 and the Red Devil 45. Both of them will have a red and black color scheme.

The Blue Angel 9 build bit the dust already. It was going to be for my wife and I was trying to make it like an EZ version, but the grips are way too fat for her. So she'll just keep the S&W 380 EZ. It's perfect for her.

That's all for now. Will show all the pics I can for the build as I go but it'll be super slow. Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.

That Looks like quite a job. Maybe you need a friend with a milling machine.

 

[warp2diesel]

One big problem with using a drill press is that there is no retaining rod to keep the cuck in the Morris Taper. If your's has a way to install a retaining rod, you can get Morris Taper collets to fit the end mills and keyset cutters you will need. The chuck you see in my photo above is mounted on an R-8 which is secured into the head with a threaded retaining rod.
As far as jigs for double wide 1911s, I was not able to buy one when I started and had to make mine so I could machine the rails and drill the hammer and sear pin holes.
Smith and Alexander has main spring housings for P-10s. RIA double wide parts such as the trigger and magazine release will work with Para double wide frames.

How I got the Grip/Frame angle right,

How I cut out to allow the double wide part of the frame to fit my shop made jig.

Lots of fitting to get ready for my first RIA 1911 A2 80% frame.

Another view of one of the jig plates.

 

[GlockLeg]

Well, a year is a pretty long time and I might just get a milling machine. If anything I can just resell it and get most of my money back after I'm done. Just another "maybe" to add to the list.

Still, it'd be nice if I could borrow your jigs after you're done with them. I'd pay for the postage and even throw in a box of ammo for your trouble.

Right now I'm still working on my AR9 and getting an AR-15 built. Nearly done with the 1st, having built the upper.

Being a truck driver, I'm hardly ever home and I really got to plan things out pretty carefully. And when I'm home, family comes 1st. I barely had time to shoot 50 rounds through my SCCY to see how well it worked after getting out back from the shop.

Working on changing jobs where I'm home more often. Been on the road long enough, getting experience, that I've even got Walmart knocking on my door, so I've got my choice. I've got so many projects on the back burner it's not even funny. And yes, I'd love to hire people to do it but so far the professionals have disappointed me. Like my 98 Chevy Z71 that's been to the shop 3 times, 2 different mechanics, and they can't even get the air conditioner to work.

You know the old saying, "If you want something done right..."

BTW, very impressive work! Can't wait to see the finished product. Those Paras are beautiful guns.

 

[Lowlander]

GlockLeg, Here's some info and tools/parts I've found along the way building mine. Some have already been mentioned such as Smith and Alexander for mainspring housings for all Para Hi-Cap frames, P10-P14, etc.

For tooling I've been very happy with my Matrix jigs. I have the rail cutter, decking/drilling jigs, frame jig, barrel seat cutter and the sanding jig. They are well made and they have excellent customer service. I recommend giving them a call or emailing them and talk to them about what your wanting to accomplish. I usually talk with a guy named Brian he's knowledgeable and can get you set up with what you'll need:

1911/2011 TOOLS AND JIGS — MATRIX PRECISION

1911/2011 TOOLS AND JIGS

www.matrixprecisionparts.com

Even if it's marked out of stock, check with them they'll get you what you need.

As far as parts go, I found nearly everything I needed from Sarco. Also check on Numrich, eBay and GunBroker as I find NOS Para parts on those sights frequently.

Here's an excellent reference I use frequently for dimensions:

1911 Prints Share - Shared with pCloud

Keep all your files safe, access them on any device you own and share with just the right people. Create a free pCloud account!

u.pcloud.link

The above links have a ton of dimensional references for the 1911. I used these when locating my slide stop and hammer pins on my Para castings. Then used the Matrix frame jig once I had those to locate the rest. Decked it with the decking jig and then cut the rails with the rail cutter. I use the smaller 0.117" cutters and get a very tight and even slide/frame fit once l lap everything.

Here's another jig I use on these castings and a few others I've picked up without ejector holes:

1911 Ejector Drill Jig | Sithech Customs, LLC

* A manufacturing issue popped up and I have temporarily taken down the jigs until I come up with a fix plan. Basically the drill bushings were installed in the wrong order. Please standby, thank for your patience. New and improved! The 1911 Ejector Drill Jig is the only way to go when...

www.sithechcustoms.com

Nice little jig, well made and accurate.

The biggest hurdles your going to face are going to be the mainspring housing slots and the plunger tube holes. As I previously mentioned I'm going to mill away the factory cast in plunger tube, drill and install a standard plunger tube. You could design yourself a drill guide, fasten it firmly to the frame and use long drill bits I suppose.

Now as for those mainspring housing slots. I don't really know of any other way to make that cut than with a woodruff keyseat cutter. I'm sure there are other ways but that's how I'm doing mine. I'm fortunate enough to have a couple knee mills at work so I'm doing my mainspring housing slots there after hours, with permission from the owner. I have my personal mill there too but it's not set up at the moment.

Like you I work a lot and I am also on the road a lot. So I spread my projects out over time. I'll dig up some more stuff when I get home this week and post it here. Hopefully this gives you a start anyway.

BTW, if you're interested in building a Warthog too I can send you links to where you can find the factory plastic mainspring housings and I can send you the info for a gentleman who will make you a grip safety.

 

[GlockLeg]

GlockLeg, Here's some info and tools/parts I've found along the way building mine. Some have already been mentioned such as Smith and Alexander for mainspring housings for all Para Hi-Cap frames, P10-P14, etc.

For tooling I've been very happy with my Matrix jigs. I have the rail cutter, decking/drilling jigs, frame jig, barrel seat cutter and the sanding jig. They are well made and they have excellent customer service. I recommend giving them a call or emailing them and talk to them about what your wanting to accomplish. I usually talk with a guy named Brian he's knowledgeable and can get you set up with what you'll need:

1911/2011 TOOLS AND JIGS — MATRIX PRECISION

1911/2011 TOOLS AND JIGS

www.matrixprecisionparts.com

Even if it's marked out of stock, check with them they'll get you what you need.

As far as parts go, I found nearly everything I needed from Sarco. Also check on Numrich, eBay and GunBroker as I find NOS Para parts on those sights frequently.

Here's an excellent reference I use frequently for dimensions:

1911 Prints Share - Shared with pCloud

Keep all your files safe, access them on any device you own and share with just the right people. Create a free pCloud account!

u.pcloud.link

The above links have a ton of dimensional references for the 1911. I used these when locating my slide stop and hammer pins on my Para castings. Then used the Matrix frame jig once I had those to locate the rest. Decked it with the decking jig and then cut the rails with the rail cutter. I use the smaller 0.117" cutters and get a very tight and even slide/frame fit once l lap everything.

Here's another jig I use on these castings and a few others I've picked up without ejector holes:

1911 Ejector Drill Jig | Sithech Customs, LLC

* A manufacturing issue popped up and I have temporarily taken down the jigs until I come up with a fix plan. Basically the drill bushings were installed in the wrong order. Please standby, thank for your patience. New and improved! The 1911 Ejector Drill Jig is the only way to go when...

www.sithechcustoms.com

Nice little jig, well made and accurate.

The biggest hurdles your going to face are going to be the mainspring housing slots and the plunger tube holes. As I previously mentioned I'm going to mill away the factory cast in plunger tube, drill and install a standard plunger tube. You could design yourself a drill guide, fasten it firmly to the frame and use long drill bits I suppose.

Now as for those mainspring housing slots. I don't really know of any other way to make that cut than with a woodruff keyseat cutter. I'm sure there are other ways but that's how I'm doing mine. I'm fortunate enough to have a couple knee mills at work so I'm doing my mainspring housing slots there after hours, with permission from the owner. I have my personal mill there too but it's not set up at the moment.

Like you I work a lot and I am also on the road a lot. So I spread my projects out over time. I'll dig up some more stuff when I get home this week and post it here. Hopefully this gives you a start anyway.

BTW, if you're interested in building a Warthog too I can send you links to where you can find the factory plastic mainspring housings and I can send you the info for a gentleman who will make you a grip safety.

Yes, I'm interested in building a Wart9. I just don't know if I'll still want to next year. From what I researched, the Warthog mainspring housing was just officer sized, with the grip safety and mainspring being the only pieces smaller. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm also now aware that I need to do a lot more research, as I don't know what a plunger is on a 1911 or where it goes. Don't worry, I'll find out.

Thanks for your help this far. I'll look into the jigs when I can and maybe buy them when I can afford them.

I'm still kinda iffy about buying a mill. Hard to justify paying so much money for something I'm only going to use once for projects that I'm trying to go budget on. I once bought a Dewalt router, great quality, only used it once and then it sat in my shop for several years before I sold it for more than I paid.

Maybe I can just rent one?

I'll figure something out. I'm just a bit more hands on, you know. If MosinVirus can file out Novak sights by hand, surely something similar can be done with the rails and other things.

 

[SourwoodTom]

Great project. Glad you are letting us follow you through the project.

 

[GlockLeg]

Well, I need to buy the slides in a couple of weeks. Since I'm building at least 3 of these, I need to get 2 more.

The P12 slide is already bought, so I need to get the P13 and P10 slides.

Here's the question, should I go with the Wart9 slide for a 3 inch barrel, which it was manufactured with, or just go with the 3.5 inch like the p12? I really don't think a 1/2" is going to make any real difference in concealability. I'm leaning more towards the 3.5".

As for the P13, I'm going Commander size, which will be 4.25" and in 45acp since I already bought the magazines, which is the only reason I'm sticking with 45acp. So much for thinking these builds through. I'm already having 2nd thoughts and regretting purchases, but only a little.

 

[GlockLeg]

I found what a guy did to his drill press in order to use it as a light duty milling machine. It's something to think about since a milling machine is definitely out of my price range, not to mention I have no space to put the thing.

However, a friend of mine knows a guy that probably has a milling machine. Hopefully I can meet this guy and convince him to let me use it. That would be a lot less hassle than converting a drill press and probably more reliable too.

 

[Free_American]

plus after cutting the rails get some stones so you can stone them smooth

 

[Lowlander]

Well, I need to buy the slides in a couple of weeks. Since I'm building at least 3 of these, I need to get 2 more.

The P12 slide is already bought, so I need to get the P13 and P10 slides.

Here's the question, should I go with the Wart9 slide for a 3 inch barrel, which it was manufactured with, or just go with the 3.5 inch like the p12? I really don't think a 1/2" is going to make any real difference in concealability. I'm leaning more towards the 3.5".

As for the P13, I'm going Commander size, which will be 4.25" and in 45acp since I already bought the magazines, which is the only reason I'm sticking with 45acp. So much for thinking these builds through. I'm already having 2nd thoughts and regretting purchases, but only a little.

I mulled over the same thing when planning to buy parts for my Warthog/P10. So I just bought both, lol. I may pick up another frame and just have one of each, a 9mm and a.45.

As far as slide length goes, a 3.5" slide will have a gap between the end of the duct cover and the recoil spring tunnel on the slide. It won't affect function, only cosmetic.

Mags are plentiful for the P10-45, but for the Hawg9 the mags are much more scarce. They are out there but you have to really dig and keep an eye out for them. Same with 40cal version, they just didn't make as many.

Keep us posted on your progress. These are pretty neat projects imo and I like seeing what different people come up with building them.

 

[GlockLeg]

I mulled over the same thing when planning to buy parts for my Warthog/P10. So I just bought both, lol. I may pick up another frame and just have one of each, a 9mm and a.45.

As far as slide length goes, a 3.5" slide will have a gap between the end of the duct cover and the recoil spring tunnel on the slide. It won't affect function, only cosmetic.

Mags are plentiful for the P10-45, but for the Hawg9 the mags are much more scarce. They are out there but you have to really dig and keep an eye out for them. Same with 40cal version, they just didn't make as many.

Keep us posted on your progress. These are pretty neat projects imo and I like seeing what different people come up with building them.

Oh, I don't think I explained myself. I'm not buying a P10 frame, I'm cutting down a steel P13 frame to make a Warthog like clone. Shouldn't be any cosmetic issues with that...

...unless I screw up. 😛

As for the mags, this build is still a year and a half away, at least. Mags may come up or I might have to do something else. I won't know until I get my hands on my P13 mags at home and take a looksee. That won't happen till the 9th of next month.

On course, I'll be working on my ar9 too. Gotta mill out my 80% polymer receiver that I bought for $30. I'll post pics of that pretty soon. Oh man, do I got some cheap optics on that handguard.

 

[GlockLeg]

I just got me a Phantom Jig. Couldn't help myself, it was on sale for $115.

I know my Paras won't fit with them being a double stack but I've decided to try and build a single stack officers 1911 (The Blue Angel 9 EZ maybe?) 1st so that 1) I know that I can build one and 2) so I can see if I can't modify the jig to accommodate the Paras. If I can modify them, by routing out a bit of aluminum so that the plunger tube and larger grips can fit snuggly within it.

It's very difficult to finish steel frames with this jig because the rail cutter tends to chip with the harder metal, so I'll be focusing only on the aluminum frames for now. I do know the Matrix Precision rail cutters can both cut steel frames and accommodate double stacks, so there's an option.

No matter what, I'll have to get my hands on the jig and look at it closely to see what my options are.

But for now, I'm taking a break. Gotta focus on other stuff like getting my truck fixed; it needs new tires, body work, and I gotta fix up some wiring. So unless something else goes on sale, I'm not spending any more money on any builds for the next few months.

So long for now.

 

[Cameron YI]

I just got me a Phantom Jig. Couldn't help myself, it was on sale for $115.

I know my Paras won't fit with them being a double stack but I've decided to try and build a single stack officers 1911 (The Blue Angel 9 EZ maybe?) 1st so that 1) I know that I can build one and 2) so I can see if I can't modify the jig to accommodate the Paras. If I can modify them, by routing out a bit of aluminum so that the plunger tube and larger grips can fit snuggly within it.

It's very difficult to finish steel frames with this jig because the rail cutter tends to chip with the harder metal, so I'll be focusing only on the aluminum frames for now. I do know the Matrix Precision rail cutters can both cut steel frames and accommodate double stacks, so there's an option.

No matter what, I'll have to get my hands on the jig and look at it closely to see what my options are.

But for now, I'm taking a break. Gotta focus on other stuff like getting my truck fixed; it needs new tires, body work, and I gotta fix up some wiring. So unless something else goes on sale, I'm not spending any more money on any builds for the next few months.

So long for now.

I have a Phantom Jig... Works wonders on AL Frames... Sucks Balls on Steel. I went through 3 sets of Cutters doing a steel Frame. Matrix Jig is "Tits" for cutting frame rails on Steel....

 

[GlockLeg]

Update:

Yeah, I know I should be saving up money to begin buying new parts for my truck, but I couldn't help but getting more parts for my builds instead. I just purchased 2 new Para/Clark barrels, both 3.5"s for my compact builds, along with another 3.5" slide. I've also decided on a standard GI grip safety because I just don't like how beavertails stick out so much. I might change my mind if I get a few hammer bites.

Next with be the recoil rod assemblies, which I'm still a bit confused on. From what I've read, you can only have full length guide rods on an officer model. Anyone with any experience with this, by all means, please feel free to educate me.

I also bought some magazines. I've got 1 for my Hawg9 build, 2 17 round mags for target practice, and 4 more which I'm not talking about until I get a close look at them and see if they'll work (hey, they were $13 a pop so I'm giving them a try).

Now the tools. The phantom jig has a good chance of being customizable to accept double stacked. I can reinforce the aluminum with steel as to keep the jigs from warping. However, the problem is that there are more holes missing on the Para Ordnance castings than just the 3 that most 80%s come with. This will require a different jig to drill these holes. I've decided to use hardened plastic panels to fabricate the jigs because it's cheap and it won't absorb moisture. I can use metal to create the drill guides that I'll insert into the jigs so that the holes can be done with a regular hand drill instead of a drill press.

Now, I might be making a custom jig for the steel frames, and of course, I'm going the cheap route.... because I'm cheap. After doing some research and measuring, I'm pretty confident that I can make a jig that only requires some common power tools such as a drill and dremel to complete a steel frame and still be as fast, if not faster, one can do with a mill. And... I might even be able to make it as precise too.

See, this is where I have fun with the building, finding different ways to do things with unconventional methods. The best part is that I can always practice with aluminum and plastic to be sure of it's capability before sacrificing a frame to the 1911 builder gods.

As for the mainspring housing area, that was easier to solve that I thought it was. I can just make a filing guide! Get a mainspring housing, measure where I'll need to file, make a guide out of a piece of steel sheet, and then go to town. The rest is just beveling, which most 1911 builders do with a file anyways.

Anyways, that's where I'm at right now. Feel free to offer advice and/or criticism to your heart's content.

 

[Cameron YI]

Update:

Yeah, I know I should be saving up money to begin buying new parts for my truck, but I couldn't help but getting more parts for my builds instead. I just purchased 2 new Para/Clark barrels, both 3.5"s for my compact builds, along with another 3.5" slide. I've also decided on a standard GI grip safety because I just don't like how beavertails stick out so much. I might change my mind if I get a few hammer bites.

Next with be the recoil rod assemblies, which I'm still a bit confused on. From what I've read, you can only have full length guide rods on an officer model. Anyone with any experience with this, by all means, please feel free to educate me.

I also bought some magazines. I've got 1 for my Hawg9 build, 2 17 round mags for target practice, and 4 more which I'm not talking about until I get a close look at them and see if they'll work (hey, they were $13 a pop so I'm giving them a try).

Now the tools. The phantom jig has a good chance of being customizable to accept double stacked. I can reinforce the aluminum with steel as to keep the jigs from warping. However, the problem is that there are more holes missing on the Para Ordnance castings than just the 3 that most 80%s come with. This will require a different jig to drill these holes. I've decided to use hardened plastic panels to fabricate the jigs because it's cheap and it won't absorb moisture. I can use metal to create the drill guides that I'll insert into the jigs so that the holes can be done with a regular hand drill instead of a drill press.

Now, I might be making a custom jig for the steel frames, and of course, I'm going the cheap route.... because I'm cheap. After doing some research and measuring, I'm pretty confident that I can make a jig that only requires some common power tools such as a drill and dremel to complete a steel frame and still be as fast, if not faster, one can do with a mill. And... I might even be able to make it as precise too.

See, this is where I have fun with the building, finding different ways to do things with unconventional methods. The best part is that I can always practice with aluminum and plastic to be sure of it's capability before sacrificing a frame to the 1911 builder gods.

As for the mainspring housing area, that was easier to solve that I thought it was. I can just make a filing guide! Get a mainspring housing, measure where I'll need to file, make a guide out of a piece of steel sheet, and then go to town. The rest is just beveling, which most 1911 builders do with a file anyways.

Anyways, that's where I'm at right now. Feel free to offer advice and/or criticism to your heart's content.

I have discovered More By Accident than you would believe building mine... Enjoy

 

[GlockLeg]

I have discovered More By Accident than you would believe building mine... Enjoy
View attachment 628917
View attachment 628918
View attachment 628916

I like the trigger guards. Nice polish job!