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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need your series-80-experienced eyes to look at this lever and see if you think I bent it up by racking the slide into it.

I think I did.








For comparison, here is a known-to-be-good lever, photo provided by XavierBreath (Thanks XB):

Known-good part:


Also, here is a disassy'd part group, also provided by XavierBreath:



And here is a diagram I found of the parts:







So, what's the consensus? You guys think I ruined the part, as seen in the top three pics?

Scott
 

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Yes, you bent the tip of the lever upwards and need to get a replacement part from Colt or Brownells. What else got dinged up? The back of the slide?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Amazingly, Dana, the back of the slide shows no marks, which is why it took me so long to figure out what was wrong. I thought the part was supposed to be bent upwards to better actuate the plunger.

I am actually relieved to know exactly what the problem is, instead of scratching my head and thinking "hmm... what did I screw up now?":scratch:

Thanks for all your help in this journey. It sure is a pretty pistol, and I'll be doubly pleased when I get it chugging along with my ammo. Your articles are what shoved me in the Colt direction and I am glad I did not settle for something else.

:)
Scott
:)
 

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You must be a weight lifter, that's a pretty good "whack" on that part. :)

Just for laughs, you checked the lower lever also, no "nicks", etc. If in doubt, another $3-$5.00...cheap. Buy a spare plunger/plunger spring also, easy to lose.
 

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If you are ordeing a parts I would get a spare for every one of the series 80 parts. At the very least get another plunger and plunger spring, they seem easy to loose. I keep extras in my parts box.

Does the lever in you gun still move freely up and down? I would still replace it, but it might still funtion perfectly.
 

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Maybe this incident was "someone's" way of telling you to just get rid of those pesky '80 series parts, Mr. Scottauld. Btw, how come you can take a very clear picture of that little lever, yet on that "other" forum your mug is so blurry in your avatar?:dope:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ChrisGene said:
Does the lever in you gun still move freely up and down? I would still replace it, but it might still funtion perfectly.
No, it is messed up. It does not move up freely like it should.

ScottsGT said:
Was this why you had a 20 lb. trigger pull? :D
Yep, I think so. :)


Brian Dover said:
Maybe this incident was "someone's" way of telling you to just get rid of those pesky '80 series parts, Mr. Scottauld. Btw, how come you can take a very clear picture of that little lever, yet on that "other" forum your mug is so blurry in your avatar?:dope:
My face really looks that way in real life. ;)






Thanks for all the help, fellas.
 

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That sucker is bent, bad. Get a complete set of S80 parts, so you know you are working with undamaged parts. Be sure to do the "pencil test", after you get it back together.
 

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stupid question?

Aren't these parts (upper sear lever) numbered. I think 1-3? I've read where you are supposed to replace them with the same numbered part. Just wondering. Greg
 

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Yes farnorth, that's a good point. The levers are numbered so because they are slightly different sizes, so that the correct one can used that will lift the FP plunger the right amount. Be sure to get another lever that has the same number on it.
 

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Not sure of the cost difference, but also available are Series 80 parts which have Titanium Nitride (TiNi) coating... which imparts a very slick, teflon-like feel to the parts... enabling them to move with less friction and contributing to a nicer trigger pull. Something you might want to consider anyway... I'd leave the Series 80 system in place... it's reliable, works as intended, and provides an additional measure of safety should you ever drop the cocked, ready to fire, gun and thereby cause the sear to slip off of the hammer hooks. In such a scenario, a series 70 gun would fire, whereas a series 80 would not. This is an unlikely, though certainly possible occurrence... especially during a scuffle or while trying to retreat during an encounter.
 

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I've not seen this happen before, did you keep the trigger pulled while you racked the slide back and forth?

I would think in the future that you could remove the magazine and rack the slide without having your finger on the trigger while keeping the hammer back. Unless you have a match grade trigger which is very light the damage to your sear and hammer would be minimal if any at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mustang said:
I've not seen this happen before, did you keep the trigger pulled while you racked the slide back and forth?

I would think in the future that you could remove the magazine and rack the slide without having your finger on the trigger while keeping the hammer back. Unless you have a match grade trigger which is very light the damage to your sear and hammer would be minimal if any at all.
If I only knew then what I know now :D

yes, I held the trigger back while racking the slide.
yes, I did this with the recoil rod/spring out.
yes, I did this with the slide stop out.
yes, this impacted the part with the slide.

DO not do what I done did.



PS - the frame slot blank from Brownells will arrive Friday.

Looks like this:



...and will fill the slot.
 

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My series 80 parts are in a bag somewhere and I didn't bother to fill the empty slot either. My Gold Cup now has a nice 3 pound trigger pull. Of course everything else in it got dropped into bags too.

 

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The hounds of hell wouldn't dare come after me. I wouldn't feed them dinner if they did. (Wouldn't let them sleep on my bed either)
The grip panels were fashioned by Harold Garrison of Herrett's (now deceased) and the wood (California English Walnut) was graciously provided by Don Cantwell of Cantwell Wood Products in Chico California (also deceased).
The gun will do 1.5" at 50 yards if it's in a ransom rest and fed the right ammo. Briley barrel & spherical bushing. I had Clark's tighten the slide/frame fit.
Note, run a Gold Cup in a ransom rest and the roll pin in the rear sight WILL shear off. Replace with a solid piece and no more problems.
 
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