[BennettSFC]

I have a stainless Springfield Armory Loaded with brushed polished flats. I had a scratch on the slide and was able to remove it with 400 grit sand paper. I made a mistake and didn’t stay with the grain. I went with a back and forth motion and now the brushed stainless does not look uniform. Know now that I need to go in with one motion lift and repeat.
I have seen on several forums to use Flitz polish or a gray 3M Scotchbrite pad. Will the Flitz remove the brushed finish?All I am attempting to do is make the brushed stainless uniform again. Lastly this gun will be a shooter and not live in my safe. I understand scratches will happen. Just a little OCD at work.

 

[GunBugBit]

If it really becomes a shooter you will stop sweating tiny scratches and cosmetics in general. You are talking like someone who wants a cosmetically perfect gun. Shooters don't care about that.

Get out and shoot. A lot. You'll forget about scratches.

You are already self-aware. Your OCD comment is proof. So you know what I'm saying.

 

[SquibLoad]

I believe the Flitz is much too fine. in fact, the gray Scotchbrite pad may be too fine as well. I've had good results with red Scotchbrite pads. One direction and moderate pressure. Good luck.

 

[f1racefan]

I just went through this with a used STI Guardian I bought. It also had the fine, brushed finish with some minor scratches. I set up fence on my cast iron table saw surface. I then laid down some 600 grit automotive sandpaper on the table top next to the fence. I then used a block of wood that went against the bottom of the slide and with the other side up against the fence. It was then a matter of keeping everything pressed up against the fence to sand perfectly straight lines into the slide. It now looks brand, spanking new.

 

[Big Papa]

Using a sight pusher I replaced the fix with a adjustable on my S/S SA loaded. I put a slight scratch on the slide. I was adble to remove it with a piece of green scotbtite pad going with the grain. Could not even see where it was. Good luck.

 

[yeti]

I have a stainless Springfield Armory Loaded with brushed polished flats. I had a scratch on the slide and was able to remove it with 400 grit sand paper. I made a mistake and didn’t stay with the grain. I went with a back and forth motion and now the brushed stainless does not look uniform. Know now that I need to go in with one motion lift and repeat.
I have seen on several forums to use Flitz polish or a gray 3M Scotchbrite pad. Will the Flitz remove the brushed finish?All I am attempting to do is make the brushed stainless uniform again. Lastly this gun will be a shooter and not live in my safe. I understand scratches will happen. Just a little OCD at work.

For brushed stainless I'd go with the gray 3M #7446 blending pad or a 7448 if you can't find a 7446. They both work. The 7447 is slightly finer than the previous two, so you may also want to buy one of those to test for your desired effect.
I refinished an entire beat up stainless gun covered in fine scratches from repeated dirty holstering with 3M #7446 and it came out extremely well with a nice even dull shine to it. Stay with the grain! Use modest even pressure just enough to remove the scratches and impart a nice even finish. You can use a light oil or soapy water (soapy water worked fine for me) often to clean out the pad while you are working.

 

[RUSS123]

This is what I took care of using a heavy duty kitching Scotch Brite scrubbing pad with a sponge backing. You can find them in grocery stores. It's the same thing. I took care of all the little scratches including an idiot scratch. Just rub gently in the direction of the brushed finished and go in a straight line.

This was cause by an ambi safety I replaced with a single...

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 

[BBBBill]

Sandpaper is like a file or a stone. Every swipe removes metal. If you chase every scratch you will eventually have nothing left......

 

[RickB]

I don't mind wear, but damage is another thing.
Hairline scratches from handling or holstering can't be avoided, but something like a big idiot scratch, or marks left by an ambi, as pictured above, are the kinds of things that I'd remove from a stainless surface.

 

[RUSS123]

Try this, I think you'll be amazed! What can you lose if you've already messed it up? Just kidding!!!

This is only good for SS brushed finishes. Just cut it up in strips of about 1/2 to maybe one inch or equal to the width you're working on.

Use dry and allow the sponge to apply the pressure while dragging it along the grain-direction of the brushed finish which I'm sure is from back to front, lengthwise of the slide and the frame is the same. Do not go back and forth. Keep it in a straight line and in one direction.

Separate the slide from the frame. That will make it easier. Take off the grips if you're working the frame. You can get out the idiot scratch while you're at it. Just go slow and easy and become familiar with the effect.

I've found this to be so effective that I keep a few strips in my 1911 maintenance tool box.

How I discovered this: Probably by the same source of information about industrial Scotch Brite for metal finishing. There was a comment posted; someone stated that household kitchen Scotch Brite for pots and pans was the same thing as what was being suggested from their industrial product line and so I tried it. We had this stuff in the kitchen already and I though, why not just give it a try on that nasty marring the ambi safety put on my gun. It worked like magic. I couldn't believe it.

 

[Geologist]

Yep, the Scotch-Brite sponge is amazing. I've gotten very satisfying results with it on my stainless guns.

 

[jmx66]

Also try these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z49L

 

[RUSS123]

Make sure it's a 3M product.

 

[BennettSFC]

Thank you

 

[BennettSFC]

Thank you

I’m so glad I found this forum. I finally got the nerve to fix the slide on my 1911. I followed your suggestions and used the Maroon 7447 Scotchbright pad. It worked beautifully. The slide looks as good as new. I wish I knew how to attach a photo. Update. Just learned how to upload a photo.

 

[RUSS123]

I’m so glad I found this forum. I finally got the nerve to fix the slide on my 1911. I followed your suggestions and used the Maroon 7447 Scotchbright pad. It worked beautifully. The slide looks as good as new. I wish I knew how to attach a photo.

For the photos I posted, I use IMGUR. Google it. Use it on your phone and computer.

I'll take pictures with my phone and then up load them from the phone.

 

[GirlsWrenchToo]

Go to auto zone, in the paint section you can either get an assorted pack of wet black silicone oxide sandpaper, 400,600,800,1000,1500,2000,2500,3000 (but 1000 is pretty much mirror), use a hard rubber sanding block to keep the edges sharp,and lubrI cate with wd40. They also have scotch Brite pads all the way to 3000. Alternatively go to harbor freight and get 2 1" wide felt buffing wheel's for your drill or grinder. Get white tripoli, and red roughe pastes. 400 to tripoli, clean with alcohol, then buff with red roughe. You can do your makeup in your flats after that. (Because if you care about a couple scratches, you must also be a girl! . Just kidding )lol

 

[GirlsWrenchToo]

Attach a photo by going to postimg.com , click copy "thumbnail for forums) or Google post image

 

[yeti]

Good! Glad you tackled the project and it came out nice.

 

[stevemaury]

Everyone using a 3rd party imaging site has failed to learn the Lesson of Photobucket.