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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been offered the chance to buy a
1943 production Colt 1911 marked U.S.
Property (or something like that). I've
been sent a picture and it looks like it's
in excellent condition. What's the going
rate on a gun like that? The seller wanted
$1000.
 

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The gun is easily worth that AS LONG as it is in original condition with no swapped out parts. A refinished or non-original gun is worth only as a shooter, $500-$600.
 

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Ya, it really helps to type in the address correctly. Redzone when you asked me why the site wasn't opening I figured it was just Geocities acting up.

Changj if you buy it post a pic for all of us to see. I can never stare at enough classic 1911s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's a good questions regarding swapped parts. The guy is going to fly up here from Southern California to me (Northern California) for me to inspect and most likely buy the gun. I've dealt with him before (bought three guns from him) so I trust him.
He sent me a picture. As soon as I figure out how to include pictures in UBB, I'll post one. The guy with the gun also told me that it could *possibly* be a Navy gun. If that's true (I'll have to pay Colt $100 to research it or something), I think the value may go up considerably. But he'll still give it to me for $1000.
 

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The 1943 model is pretty straight forward. Clawson has a excelent book on the subject, but impossible to find (I have it and am happy to ref. it for you). If you send me a good image I would be happy to give you my two cents. If you look on my site (www.coolgunsite.com) I added some of my notes on collecting 1911s(I do it for the fun, not money I also comp shoot 45s)

Key things are:
1) Matching Finish (slide and reciever)
2) Stamps on slide, frame and barrel (on a 43 the barrel will have to be removed to see stamps. Ask him to do this and send via email the result)Should have "Colt 45 Auto" on left side above lug and "P" on left lug- For a 1000 it should be correct production barrel.
3) finish on slide-lock and thumby safty typically dont match slide and reciever. They get done in a different lot or are sometimes sub-contracted.
4) Magazine should also be correct for period.
Cheers!

------------------
Thanks
Ty www.CoolGunSite.com

[This message has been edited by Ty (edited 04-06-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Ty (edited 04-06-2001).]
 

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Good Post Ty,

Thanks for comming on board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I bought the 1943 and it's a beaut;
it had minor wear along some of the sharper
edges of the gun. I took it to my FFL and
he field-stripped it and said that it had all original parts (except for the mag, which was Vietnam war era) and it was probably one of the better specimens that he's run across.
 

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Congrats on your new toy! Take care of it and don't change a thing. The proper mag won't be to hard to find, they turn up all the time at gunshows. Oftentimes the seller doesn't even know what they have. Look for ones that are full-blued with no markings other than C-L, C-R, or C-S on the bottom plate, and maybe a C, R, or S on the top lip of the baseplate.
 

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Are you all saying that a military .45 ACP, Model 1911A1, marked U.S. property, serial # 1,18xxxx, parkerized, is worth a thousand U.S. green?
 

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A couple months ago I bought a 99% 1944 Colt M1911A1 for $1400. It was an agreeable price. Not a bargain, but both the seller and I knew what we were looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My 1943's serial number is 807xxx. Does
that mean anything to anybody? Just for
the hell of it, I called up Colt Historical
Services and asked them to do a check on
it for $100. There's a 3 month turnaround
time so I won't know much about it until then.
 

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Changj,

Just for kicks, check to see if there's a SN underneath the firing pin plate. It'd be interesting to see if it matches the frame SN.

Congrats on your purchase, sounds like a real good deal for SF bay area.
 
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