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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Just got back from my Laser Engraver....
Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Metal

Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Metal


So I have to Cerakote the engraving on the frame, he left the masking on it, in a contrasting color. Then Cerakote the slide. Which I intend to stencil the Shark Mouth on the front of the slide, so its going to take longer than just cerakoting it all in one color. But I'm closing in the completion of this project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
So coated the interior surfaces of the slide with Cerakote Micro-Slick, test fitted it and had to use a little toothpaste as mild abrasive compound to get it to slide smoothly...
Hope to coat the slide tomorrow and do the stenciling...
But tonight, I put together the frame....
Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Metal

Trigger Air gun Revolver Line Gun barrel

Camera accessory Finger Cameras & optics Gadget Thumb

Machine Gun barrel Gun accessory Metal Office equipment

Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory Everyday carry

The trigger and grip safety is a little sticky from high points on the cerakoting, but playing with it for a while is already getting it broken in, trigger is pretty smooth now, the grip safety better but still less than a smooth gong in and out....
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Ugh, I messed up the Cerakote on the slide....
I got a huge section of orange peel, and I desperately tried to wipe it away with an acetone soaked paper towel and respray the area...
It didn't work, the streaks didn't even out, fibers from the paper towel got left behind on the surface and trapped in the new coat...
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I think the cause of my occasional Orange Peel is from water getting in the spray gun from the air supply. I'm using a cheap compressor, and despite having moisture trap and draining the tank, if the compressor runs to long, like when I'm sand blasting, I get moisture coming out of the hose.

I'm going to have re-blast the cerakote off and start over on the slide.
 

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Causes of orange peel in paint:

Orange peel is typically the result of improper painting technique. It is caused by the quick evaporation of thinner, incorrect spray gun setup (e.g., low air pressure or incorrect nozzle), spraying the paint at an angle other than perpendicular or applying excessive paint.
Emphasis not mine, but in the article I pulled it from.

Having to wipe cerakote can be a real pain depending on where in the process that occurs. I tried to wipe a bad area and re-spray once. Ultimately I determined that was not going to work out. I found the best method if it doesn't look satisfactory is to completely wipe the entire piece, ensure that it's entirely clean, de-gas the acetone off it, and spray again from scratch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Causes of orange peel in paint:



Emphasis not mine, but in the article I pulled it from.

Having to wipe cerakote can be a real pain depending on where in the process that occurs. I tried to wipe a bad area and re-spray once. Ultimately I determined that was not going to work out. I found the best method if it doesn't look satisfactory is to completely wipe the entire piece, ensure that it's entirely clean, de-gas the acetone off it, and spray again from scratch.
I'm using the wrong term. I simply can not find anything else to describe it. Cause its worse than orange peel, it is very blotchy and raised. Sand blasting and blow cleaning with the same compressor, I sometimes get water out of the nozzle and it wets the surface I'm blasting or blowing. So I'm suspecting this is what happen when I get a patch that is blotchy and raised, water got mixed in the paint or It may have been an pressure surge in the air supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I'm using one water tap, as well as draining the compressor, I have a desiccate filter on the blow gun. I'm going to try to swap it out with a new one before spraying again. Its seems to be the worst when I have to run the compressor constantly to keep up with the demand. I suspect it and the air compressed being warm is carrying the water. I need to let the compressor sit and cool off before spray painting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
And it didn't help that my pressure regulator on my air compressor started to fail just before spraying the cerakote on the slide. It held pressure but kept constantly venting air, making that noise of venting air pressure constantly. And that resulted in my air compressor running more to keep with the demand of the leaking regulator. And that is when I get water out of the end of the hose with the air compressor, when it has to run constantly or too often to keep up with demand.

I got a new pressure regulator and coupling, the old one had developed a leak as well. I'm putting that on tonight, I was hoping to blast respray the slide tonight, but I'm out of daylight (Spraying outside to avoid all the safety gear) and haven't finished replacing the compressor parts yet. And I have tried to spray before without enough light, it resulted in having to do the job again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Now my compressor is repaired, I blasted the bad coat off the slide and re-did it...
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The white flecks are some fibers from the paper towels...
The reflections make some of the surface look imperfect, to the naked eye it is fine. You can see a tiny sliver I didn't get blasted out in the valley of the rear serrations in the top photo, I'm going to live with it.

Now to break out the stencils my daughter made me with her Cricut Machine, that I designed and sent to her. Once I mask it off again, and apply the stencil, I will blast away the Elite Series Moss Green where I'm going to stencil and then do a Shark's Mouth and Eyes with H-Series White, Red and Black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
I love it!

Not a fan of green, but it looks great on this project. I'm very envious because all my projects have stalled with my new job, but seeing someone else make great progress eases the pain.
This green is Cerakote E-Series Moss, E-210. I wanted to go with the new Elite Series they say is tougher than their previous H-Series. I was worried the E-Series Green would be lighter than I want, but I'm real happy with it, its a good O.D. Green, although on the light side of OD Green.

The Downsides of the Elite series are:
  • Limited number of colors
  • Can only be mixed with hardener at one ratio, no option of ratios to make more flat or glossy
  • Unable to apply another coat of another color over the base with flashing, thus no stenciling
That is why H-Series is still very popular.

If you pick the Elite matte colors, the sheen does come out close to matte, perhaps just slightly glossier than matte.

Elite series is suppose to be anti-friction as well, I've read people that have coated parts that are meant to be clamped together with E-Series, results in there being insufficient friction between the clamped parts. The E-Series is suppose to have much greater abrasion resistance, that is probably from the anti-friction properties. The feel of the surface is very smooth, almost slick, but I wouldn't call it slippery. You won't have any problem handling a firearm coated in it, but I wouldn't coat grips in it.

I like O.D. Green on firearms. I've seen several OEM Colts and even Springfield in others with either the lower or the slide in flat O.D. Green. Just about all are two tone, so something to be said about the popularity as the entire firearms in O.D. Green.

My AR-15 I built a decade ago, I painted in Digital Woodland MARPAT with Duracoat. I laid down a base coat of Forest Green (Close to O.D. Green) and it looked so good in flat green I was very torn, to just forego the other colors and just finish it in green.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
What I'm really digging is those grips. They mallet it seem like a 2011, smoothing it out.

Where'd you get them?
That's a Rock Island Armory A2 (double stack) frame. The grips will only fit that frame type, and come from RIA.
The RIA A2 frame is so close to the Para-Ordnance P13 original design, just about all parts for Para-Ordnance Parts will fit the RIA frame.

There are 3rd party grips for the Para/RIA Double Stack frame. And the grips I choose were Stoner CNC G10 grips for the 1911 High Capacity.


These are in OD Green and Black that isn't available on their website, I found them on ebay. So I'm not sure if they discontinued them or if they are small company that does some limited runs and they filter out through places like ebay.

Oh, and these Stoner CNC G10 grips are the same shape as the RIA and other Double Stack grips. Only the material, surface texture and colors are different. So any affect of smoothing out the frame you perceive must be from the pattern and colors, as well as the angle and light I took the photos.

I haven't been able to find Double Stack G10 grips in this color scheme "Camo", only for the standard 1911. These are so cool, I almost want to get another 1911 just to use them on it.


The grips are one of the few parts for the Double Stack that are not interchangeable with the standard 1911. Besides the Frame, the only RIA parts in this project are the Mag Release and the Trigger, and even the trigger I swapped the shoe from a Caspian Trigger on the RIA Bow.
 

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Yep, I figured GlockLeg was asking about the specific set you have on your project pistol. They look exactly like the ones I have on my first A2 frame project. In fact those Stoner grips look so close to RIA's offerings I might venture a guess they're OEM parts providers now that VZ has discontinued making their A2 grip panels. I know VZ used to be their OEM grip supplier because I emailed them to see if they could/would make a set and the basic answer was "Technically we can, but we don't anymore since we stopped being the OEM supplier for RIA's double stack pistol grips." I took that to be a soft no, and just ordered a set from RIA.

Yep, looks like they've updated their site. RIA is selling Stoner CNC grips.

1911 - A2/Double Stack - High Capacity G10 Grips - Long/Non-Magwell Pistol

I have found a few other aftermarket suppliers. Browne Works makes them too, I need to get a set for the most recent build of mine.

Build Your Own Custom Grips
 
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