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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am tired of the bushings coming out along with the grips on my S&W 1911s. S&W does nothing to keep the bushings in the frame. No loctite and no staking. The grip screws come loose if I don't use loctite and if I loctite (blue or purple) then it invariably pulls the bushings out of the frame the next time I go to remove them. I use rigid aluminum and micarta grips that don't play well with screws so something is necessary to prevent them from working loose.

I am going to try #60 o-rings instead of loctite for the grip screws and keep on top of tightening them and replacing the o-rings. I really really want the bushings to stay put. I have no interest in switching to slim bushings in the future and I am fine with having a gunsmith remove the grip screw bushings in the unlikely event that one needs replacement (certainly less likely then my needing remove the grips). As it is I need a gunsmith to salvage the grips each time this happens.

What is the process for doing it correctly? I did a search and didn't find anything about staking them, only how to remove them and deal with damaged threads. I saw several individuals recommend loctite instead of staking. Will that really hold? What does the high speed low drag hard use crowd do?
 

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I

What is the process for doing it correctly? I did a search and didn't find anything about staking them, only how to remove them and deal with damaged threads. I saw several individuals recommend loctite instead of staking. Will that really hold? What does the high speed low drag hard use crowd do?
Yes, locktite will hold the bushings in and an O ring under the grip screw heads will keep them from backing out.

Problem solved.
 

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Note that Loctite "doesn't play well" with lubricants.
You have to degrease everything.

Use Acetone or Lacquer thinner to degrease the bushings and the holes.
Put the bushings in a cup with lacquer thinner, and use a clean pipe cleaner and thinner to clean out the holes in the frame.

Dry everything, then apply Loctite Red to the holes in the frame and the screws.
Snug the bushing down tight with a bushing driver, and allow 24 hours to cure before cleaning off any excess.
 

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I don't bother to stake loose bushings anymore as I have found that red Loctite will do the job. Preparation is everything; as previously mentioned all oils must be removed. I recommend brake parts cleaner as it is formulated to leave no residue behind. For the best possible bond, I recommend Loctite Primer prior to applying the red Loctite. This primer isn't cheap, at $13 for 1.75 oz, but a little goes a long way, and it doesn't go bad.
 

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Did you get the bushing staking tool? If not I would get one from brownells. You screw in the new bushing, put the pool on the back side of the bushing through the mag well. Using a punch through the bushing on the other side placed on the bushing tool give the punch a few good whacks and your done.

The punch focuses the strikes on the bushing tool which slightly expands the bushing in the hole.

After a long time struggling with bushing backing out on my pistol and several trips to the local smith I decided to do it myself. I locktited (red) and staked it and it's been secure for several years now.
 

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Just a recommendation after the grip screw bushings are properly installed is to apply a drop of oil or a dab of grease to the threads of each grip screw before installing the grip panels. I do this every time to prevent the grip screws from seizing up to the grip screw bushings.
 

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bushings

I am going to put thin bushings on my Officers model and the loctite is a great idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I asked this on another forum and everyone is pushing the red (or blue) loctite hard so I will go with that. If you stake the bushings and they work loose you risk damaging the frame threads. If the loctite fails you won't risk damaging the frame, but if you don't stake it correctly the staked material can damage the frame threads when the bushing unscrews.
 
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