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I have the same thing on my new Wilson extended safety. The whole gun is one color and the safety looks purple. :mad:
 

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Seeing Red

At Perry this summer I spoke with a Nat Guard shooter who was a retired bluer for Colts cutom shop and did restoration work. I asked him the same thing about the red tint to the slide of some of my National Match Colts from the early 60's. He said the slides were harder than most of the other Colt parts and frames. The bluing "took" differently to the hard steel. The batch blued at the factory many parts at once which makes sense. I have also noticed when cutting threads on a "red" slide that they are harder. Greg Derr
 

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Re: Seeing Red

Greg Derr said:
I asked him the same thing about the red tint to the slide of some of my National Match Colts from the early 60's.
A friend of mine has a couple of old National Match guns from that time period and I noticed the same thing... the bluing looked faintly reddish in color.
 

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I just changed it back with the original. I can't stand it. I guess I will have to get another. I need a place in Northern VA that keeps parts in stock so I can take a look before I buy. Any ideas?
 

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I was told by two different individuals in the industry that
it comes from Silacone. (clearly spelled wrong ;) )

They use it as a release agent when casting. the mills hear it works and use MORE. Caspian early Carbon cast slides were often Purple. It holds that cast safeys ext would also be purple red from the same. 60's era GI Hard slides 7790314 sometimes did the same red and they were harder than slides up till that time.

geo
 

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i've seen at lot of H&K P7's w/plum colored slides (almost seems to be the norm for their PSP's). Interesting to hear that this color can be a side-effect of the casting process, since I thought that all of the P7 slides were machined from forgings. Anyone know if that is correct, or these parts actually cast?

Jared
 

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Turning red after (or during) the blueing process is caused by one of several things: A case hardened surface, extremely hard steel, hardened surface due to repairs such as welding or it might be the metal makeup itself, such as post 64 Win 94s that cannot be blued without a red cast redily seen. I have had great luck by Nik the rec, butt plate (if metal) and the bbl bands on these rifles; it makes a real good looking job. On some of these other items, running your salts up past the limit (275 to 295 degrees) to about 310 or 315 and cooking the daylights out of them will help to darken the metal to the desired color. You will destroy a lot of your salts this way but it can't be helped if you want a nice looking job and even then, the color might not be exact. Barrels and gun parts that have been exposed to constant use with Silicone oils and grease will not take a blue untill it is completely cleaned from the part. Instead, it turns a muddy red color on the surface of the part which then has to be completely reprepped and blued again.

xx
 
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