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Turning red after (or during) the blueing process is caused by one of several things: A case hardened surface, extremely hard steel, hardened surface due to repairs such as welding or it might be the metal makeup itself, such as post 64 Win 94s that cannot be blued without a red cast redily seen. I have had great luck by Nik the rec, butt plate (if metal) and the bbl bands on these rifles; it makes a real good looking job. On some of these other items, running your salts up past the limit (275 to 295 degrees) to about 310 or 315 and cooking the daylights out of them will help to darken the metal to the desired color. You will destroy a lot of your salts this way but it can't be helped if you want a nice looking job and even then, the color might not be exact. Barrels and gun parts that have been exposed to constant use with Silicone oils and grease will not take a blue untill it is completely cleaned from the part. Instead, it turns a muddy red color on the surface of the part which then has to be completely reprepped and blued again.

xx
 
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