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Discussion Starter #1
When removing Colt Series 80 safety parts why does the frame slot needs to be filled or does it? I posted this on another forum but I would like to hear your expert opinions as well. Thanks. BTW I would like to remove the series 80 safety on my range gun. I'm stuck with carrying Glocks until I retire :grumble:
 

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It needs to be filled. Without filling the slot, the sear is free to drift to the right along the pin up to 1/16" of an inch, depending on how loose the disconnector fit is. Enough, I think, to nullify the safety.

I tried it once anyhow as a short test (private range), the result was severe inconstancy in the trigger pull. The gun was dangerous. Although it didn't happen to me, the pull was so inconsisent that I worried about the gun doubling or worse.

BTW, although it takes some doing, it is possible to get very good trigger pull with the safety left in place.

Brownells sells filler plates for about $5, or they are quite easy to to make from 1/16" steel plate. Make a brass template first.

If you do remove it, be very sure that this is only on a range gun - it is never a good idea to remove any safety.
 

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I have used several of the Brownell's spacer plates to restore Colts and Paras to series 70 condition. Just be sure to polish the holes so they don't cause any drag...
As far as using it for range guns only, I won't agree. My agency allowed series 70 and series 80 guns when we carried our own guns. I carried a series 80 COLT for years until one day the gun stopped firing as the series 80 stuff was way out of time. The firing pin had beat up the plunger in the slide so bad that it wouldn't move. This was a high mileage gun for a Police gun and when I was forced to take a Glock it's log showed over 20,000 rounds of mostly UMC 230 FMJ. I took it to a local gunsmith who said he'd have to weld up some series 80 parts or see if the COLT shop could fix it.
Being an armorer, I went to the rangemaster and gave him the story and was authorized to restore it to a series 70 condition. I still carry it off duty and the only things on it that are original Colt (literally) are the barrel, frame, and slide. Everything else is new to include the sights.
I'd check with your local guy in charge and if a series 70 is still OK (Colt still sells them), I'd make is a series 70 gun.
 

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I had the almost identical "issue" that Mick0610 had around 30,000 rounds, I believe. Only the plunger was battered enough that the FP stuck out. :(

I kept the series 80 "stuff" in, but the levers were changed with corrected "timing" and no problems for about @ 15,000.

That's not to "talk" you in or out of removing the parts, simply that they must be "timed" properly and "checked". Lot's of posts on that stuff.
 

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The Series 80 firing pin interlock has no disadvantage I can think of. I've removed -- and then replaced -- it in a couple of M1911 pistols. It currently resides in my Para Ordnance lightweight LTC.

I had to remove it from my 9mm M1991 Government model as I couldn't get consistent and reliable extraction with the 9mm Series 80 extractor. The AFTEC extractor proved the solution to this, but is unavailable in Series 80 so the parts stayed out and the filler plate remains.

There is no legal, moral, or ethical reason to retain this device. You remain responsible for where your bullets go, safetes or not.

-- Chuck
 

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I have read somewhere that the shims from Brownells are made from "soft" metal and were not intended for permanent use, and that they would wear and peen over time, requiring replacement. Is this true? Who makes the best shims?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks again guys. The trigger on the gun is very good now as it was worked on by a competent gunsmith. The main reason I want to do this is because I like to strip the gun often for cleaning and this would simplify things. Another question; Brownells sells a frame slot filler but I also heard that those things are not hardened and can deform. Does anyone make a hardened filler? or should I just get a couple from Brownells and replace them once in a while ?
 

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I have a couple of fillers in use, and no signs of deformation. I'm not sure how or why the thing would deform, anyway? There's no load on it, it doesn't move, so ? I do stone the sides of the shim, to make sure there are no burrs, and that they sit flat, but mine look the same after 10,000 rounds as they did when installed.
 

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shims

Texagun said:
I have read somewhere that the shims from Brownells are made from "soft" metal and were not intended for permanent use, and that they would wear and peen over time, requiring replacement. Is this true? Who makes the best shims?
It happens in some guns but not in others. It did in one of mine but not in the other one.
 
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