1911Forum banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1. What grit of sandpaper are stones roughly equivalant to?
2. Can you use them in a back and forth motion, or only in one direction like a file?
3. How do you know when to stop stoning? When all of the high points are nocked down? When all the machine marks are gone? when the surface is a uniform bright polish?
4. If the surface you are stoning is really rough do you start off with sandpaper, what grit would you use.
5. At what grit do you switch to a stone?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,197 Posts
m1a convert,

Getting into the realm of doing some of your own work. Cool.

Stones are generally classified by their grit or relative courseness/smoothness by color. I am a hobbyist - the real 'smiths here can give you more precise info but I have used the following on my guns.

A red India stone for quick cutting.

White Arkansas stones for the actual honing and polishing.

And for a real slick surface a black Arkansas stone.

Good resource material (manuals, etc.)


Use the stones in the order above and you will acquire good lockwork function and smoothness assuming use of proper fixtures and technique.

The stones come in different shapes and lengths. I use particular stones for the sear work and a dedicated stone or stones for the hammer hooks. Depending on source you can get the the stones above plus a real nice one with 90 degree corners (for the hammer hooks) for about $40. That is a good ballpark figure for getting started.

Brownell's sells a cool ceramic stone just for doing the trigger track in the frame. And it works on the hooks okay before final polishing with the black Arkansas stone.

I hope this helps.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top