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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a lot of military crimped 45acp brass. To remove the edge crimp should I ream the pocket or swage.

I only have about 1500 rounds so I need a simple and inexpensive solution.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Yes, you should ream or swage.
:)


It's your choice.

Those who ream will cry out loud that you should only ream!
Those who swage will cry out loud that you should only swage!

It works either way. Don't let their insistent crying convince you otherwise.


Reaming tools are generally cheaper and fast to use.
Swaging tools general cost more but are so easy, and some of them fast.

For swaging, strongly consider the Dillon tool. Expensive, but works great and a lifetime tool.

For reaming, either look at the Hornady tool or go to the hardware store
and find a carbide countersink bit for your drill (cordless or corded).


Cheapest of all: Pocketknife. Just scrape around the rim of the primer pocket.
It works, but your fingers get tired after 40 or 50. After 100 your hands will die.
But cheapest of all, because you have it on hand. For a dozen or so, it's a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@Nick A - I tried a reamer but the first time I seated a primer it felt like there was no resistance at all. I then tried a countersink and created a nice bevel on the rim of the pocket and the primers seated with a little more resistance. Should I stay with the countersink for only 1500 cases?
 

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@Nick A - I tried a reamer but the first time I seated a primer it felt like there was no resistance at all. I then tried a countersink and created a nice bevel on the rim of the pocket and the primers seated with a little more resistance. Should I stay with the countersink for only 1500 cases?
All personal choice. I use a countersink exclusively, that's all I use.
But others use the Dillon exclusively and do every bit as well as me. Same both ways.
 

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I've used a case neck deburring tool on all the crimped brass I've come across. That's a great way to go when you find the odd military case in a pile of varied cases, but sitting down and twisting that tool around 1500 times? I might try to find something more suited to a production line!
 

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I agree with NickA that it's your choice.

I've done reaming with the Lee tool, Wilson/RCBS tool amd swaging with the RCBS tool and the Dillon Super Swage.

Reaming is good IF you only have a few, also it can get tiring on the thumb, but swaging if you have a lot.

I use the Dillon Super Swage for rifle only and .223/5.56 primarily but pistol is done on a 1050.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Countersink it is. Been using the one I had and ran some tests. The primers seat just like commercial brass.
 

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Find a buddy at the range that has a Dillon 1050. Buy him a six pack of his favorite brew and have him process them for you.
 

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Check this out:

http://www.ch4d.com/equipment/case-tools/psk

They make really quality tools at a very reasonable price.

The shellholder is on top of the press, not the base.
I'm glad you posted this link. I think I'm gonna give this a try. For the price I think it's worth a try. I got I set of countersinks and a Wilson deburring tool.Both work but I want something more consistant.
 

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For me it's the (chucked) Lyman case neck debur tool. But I have only done small primers for .223's. Not sure how it would sit with large primer pockets. Starting out did it by hand until I got a feel for how much to take. Then chucked into a drill press and can zip through them pretty fast. I can't imagine a swager being any faster. You still have to handle each one.
 

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I wish I'd seen that CH4D in action before I bought the Dillon Super Swage. I tried the RCBS press-mounted kit and found it to be worthless.

Still haven't tried the GS Custom on my 650, but will probably get around to it soon. Have high hopes that I'll be able to decap, swage, size and trim in one operation.
 

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CH4D tool looks good for single stage or turret press. Nice tool!

It won't work on a progressive press because the progressive would keep advancing the shellplate.
 

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Like many on this and other forums, I have been pleased with using a countersink bit in my drill press. It takes less than 0.5sec and you are done. I have done way more than 1500 9mm with this method. Works for me YMMV.
 

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Thanks dickttx for the info, I've been trying to make up my mind on one too and you just did.
 
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