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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would like to know if someone out there knows how to reduce a trigger slack on a series 80 gold cup with a videki speed trigger? I tried almost all type of adjustments to no avail. Anyone help please
 

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First - what do you mean by "trigger slack"? Do you mean the inital take-up?

Second, what "adjustments" have you already done? The set screw on the trigger does nothing to reduce take-up, if that is what you have adjusted.
 

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Jim,

If you are referring to the play in the trigger before it goes "bang", that can usually be adjusted by taking out the trigger. On the front of the bow are usually tabs that can be bent out to take up the pretravel. Careful, a little goes a long way.
 

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I know, I know.......
I'm like a little old lady on this subject......but.....
When adjusting take-up/pre-travel BE SURE you maintain adequate sear engagement in the hammer half-cock notch.
Most ammers require a minimum of .040"-.060" of pre-travel. If in doubt, err on the side of caution.
 

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No, no, no Pistolwrench. Be a little old lady. Safety is a good thing.

Just go slow Jimbullet. You can eliminate alomst all takeup, bt a smallamount is good.
 

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pistolwrench said:
When adjusting take-up/pre-travel BE SURE you maintain adequate sear engagement in the hammer half-cock notch.
Most ammers require a minimum of .040"-.060" of pre-travel. If in doubt, err on the side of caution.
Pistolwrench, we're listening......Could I ask you, though, to explain this a little further? I'm missing something important here, and I want to make sure I understand your point.
 

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Inadequate pretravel will prevent the sear from rotating
enough to fully engage the halfcock notch or shelf.
If the halfcock is a notch, insure that the sear is indeed captive in
the slot by pulling the trigger. The hammer should not fall.
If the halfcock is a shelf, as on series 80 hammers, use a marker
to color the shelf and determine how much engagement is
present.
The amount of necessary pretravel will vary according to the
hammer's geometry.
If the sear does not have adequate halfcock engagement,
the possibility of fullauto is dangerously close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys for the reply.....You are right, the trigger slack that I meant is the gap before it actually goes bang. Yes it is the take up. So far, what I have only done was to adjust the screw on the trigger but found that this does nothing to correct this. I was thinking of bending the leaf springs but was scared to do so coz it might result to other problems... You mean I can just simply bend the trigger bow? Which area should I do this and how please:confused:
 

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NOT the whole bow. Don't flex the bow AT ALL. On the front of the bow (near the trigger pad) are usually one/two small tabs cut into the bow that can be bent out. Just bend them out forward (toward the trigger pad) a bit. If you go too far, you'll know because the gun won't fire or reset. If that occurs you can GENTLY take the trigger while it is in the gun and by pinching it with thumb and forefinger, pull it forward some to get some play.

 

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jimbullet said:
So far, what I have only done was to adjust the screw on the trigger but found that this does nothing to correct this.
As I mentioned above, this screw regulates the trigger overtravel (how much the trigger moves back AFTER the hammer has fallen). If you have messed with this without knowing what you were doing, you may be the potential owner of a FULLY-automatic pistol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks. I will try to see that pad you are saying....but it is part of the entire trigger bow right or is it totally different?
 

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Jimbullet,

Focus, young Jedi, focus!

Check out that picture I listed above. Notice the trigger assembly has two main parts:

1. The actual trigger pad (the part with holes you actually touch with your finger when firing) and......

2. The long trigger bow which is the long, thin piece of metal that wraps around in kind of a "U" behind the part where you put your finger.

Now.......on the trigger bow, near the front side where my red arrow points will be one OR two little tabs that are cut into the actual trigger bow. You bend these out (using tweezers or small pliers) toward the direction of the trigger pad. Bend them out, reinstall trigger and see how it feels.

You do not want to bend or flex the entire trigger bow. The bow is "U" shaped because your magazines run up inside the gap. Flexing/bending anything besides those little tabs on the bow can cause the bow to hang up on your mags or other problems. You will then be irritated.

Take your trigger out and tell me what you see.
 

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Lycanthrope you might want to see if you can enlarge that photo. To someone unfamiliar with adjusting take up the small pic may not be real clear. Just my two cents since a tiny adjustment goes a looooong way.
 

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Lycanthrope,

I'm having trouble following along here. I don't see how these tabs behind the trigger pad will reduce take-up. What do they engage?

It would seem to me that there should be adjustments made at the rear of the bow to accomplish this?

I'm still learning here so please excuse the question. I'm just trying to develop an understanding of how this will reduce take-up before I adjust mine. The trigger that I have doesn't have anything near the pad that can be adjusted or bent.

Mercury.
 

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The tabs Lycanthrope is referring to actually control how far forward the trigger will travel when released. As you bend the tabs forward they contact the inside of the frame and limit the distance the trigger moves forward. The further forward you bend the tabs the less the trigger will travel forward. By limiting the forward movement of the trigger you reduce the take-up or slack since the trigger is actually not allowed to travel all the way forward. But as was mentioned there needs to be enough free travel in the trigger to allow the sear to fully engage the hammer. Therefore you need to leave about .040 - .060 take-up.
 

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Konza,

That makes perfect sense! Thanks for explaining it to me.

Are there any other means of adjustment if those tabs aren't present?

..Mercury.
 

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On triggers witout the take-up adjustment tabs, the only way to make the adjustmet is to silver solder small screws in the general area that the tabs would be and then file them down till you get the correct take-up setting. The tabs are much easier to adjust!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Could you expand the picture....My browser is having difficulty seeing the picture so well....So far, Am not sure too I could see the pads you are referring to on the Videki trigger I have. But I understand where it should be and how it should work...WOuld like to see the picture better (post please again please!)
 

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It seems it'll be best for me to buy a replacement trigger with the tabs rather than play around with soldering up something that I have no idea on how its supposed to look. Not having a sample to work from & not knowing exactly where the tabs should be or how thick or wide, I could spend several hours on a hit or miss approach until I get it right.

Or..... I could just learn to live with the take-up.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Guys,

Relax! Konza is right on (thanks for clarification, Konza). The only purpose of the tabs is for a spacer between the frame and trigger bow so the trigger doesn't reset as far forward. You can accomplish this by soldering a bead and sanding it to fit or by bending a tab that you cut into a trigger bow (that isn't pre cut).

Now, I don't have a Videcki on hand. I picked that shot right out of a catalog. I did, however, find a brand new trigger out of a Kimber Gold Match. Notice the tabs cut in below. You can bend these out. On the trigger in the picture in my previous post, the tabs are not in the center of the bow, they just kind of hang on the bottom. On a Dlask trigger it is on tab on the top of the bow. I can't say where your Videcki has them, or if it does......



 
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