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Theyprobably redesigned the webbing in it. Bit they saidthehard primers and notiabbing the orimer handlewere the major causes of it. WhatI do know is it is still operational with the replacement bell crank.

After rebuild confidence in it, I tried the CCI primers again because I always had good luck with them. Not a t-totaler but preferred. I generally use Federal regularly as well. Remington and Wolf (the Wolf during ammo scrambles) have crossed my bench as well.
 

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I had all kinds of problems like this only with large pistol primers. It was for a fairly short period of time. Short because I called Dillon out of frustration. Dillon said:

1. Winchester, Federal, or Rem primers only (softer cups);
2. do not push the ram bell crank handle. Push softly until you feel the case make contact with the primer. Then give it a little jab. It works! Found out I can even use CCI primers after I got used to it.
Would someone please explain what that means ( the Italicized and bold statement). My 550b Schematic shows "13409 Crank", but no "bell crank handle".
 

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I have found that my 550b using Federal Large Pistol primers, in order for the primers to be seated all the way to the bottom of the primer pocket (.45 ACP, .44 Spl.) is to pull the upright on the frame (20094) with my left hand, while pushing the (20636) Operating Handle away from me with my right hand in one continuous push-pull motion.

Also, note that using softer Federal primers lets CCI off the hook for the problem.

I think (but not sure) it was Brian Enos that suggested grinding/filing a couple of thousandths off the bottom of the (13824) primer cup would remedy high large pistol primers in the 550b. However, my experiments have shown that not to be the answer inasmuch as the bottom of the (13824) primer cup does not bottom out on the (13854) Primer Slide on the priming stroke.

I made several posts about the problem and what I had found and experimented with in regard to the 550b large primer seating issue on the Dillon Forum a couple of years ago. However, Dillon Forum site seems to have been dropped by Dillion.

And no, it is not always a loose (20093) shell plate or backed-out (14013) Roller Bracket Screws on the (14280) Roller Bracket Shell Platform, or the (13967) Primer Seating Punch incorrectly set that causes difficulty in seating Large Pistol Primers.
 

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I call ita bellcrank…because that is what it is. The part I am referring to is connected at the bottom of the ram and has the charging handle connected to it.
 

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Bell crank is a type of mechanism. It does the same mechanical task the powder measure bell crank does. Same as on the older clutch bellcrank of manual shift vehicles. Now that we know Dillon’s nomenclature…
 

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I replaced the punch assembly and adjusted it to the proper height per dillons instructions, but primers are still getting seated out of square,and some are seated high.

Is there a fix for this?

Reloading 45 ACP and 45 Colt. * I think* the problem started when I switched to cci primers. I was using Winchester previously without issue. I'm not sure if that's the problem. If I can find Winchester primers, I can test that hypothesis.
The primer seating stem can come loose causing movement. It's not the sturdiest in the world. Recheck the seating stem height per Dillon's instructions and firmly tighten the set screw. I have to retighten mine from time to time.
 

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The primer seating stem can come loose causing movement. It's not the sturdiest in the world. Recheck the seating stem height per Dillon's instructions and firmly tighten the set screw. I have to retighten mine from time to time.
While I can't speak to Dillon problems, I can say that the mis-seated primers were a problem to me using hand priming tools. It started with a lee auto prime and continued with every hand priming tooI tried. With my latest tool, a Hornady, the problem was solved by supporting the primer punch. Don't know if this is possible in the Dillons but with the hand tool, I made 2 short bushings, just larger than primer OD's and new larger dia. primer punches for each large and small that fit the bushing. The bushings fit in the shell holder, I had to shorten the pilot area in the feed tray that center the shell holders, but no ill affects, and new punch goes in ram of tool. The object is that the punch is supported all around as primer is pressed into case. It prevents the punch from skating off to the unsupported side when a resisting primer is encountered thus stopping an uneven seating. Maybe this concept could be adapted to the Dillon problem
 

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I didn’t see any. They were stress cracks. But a void was a possbility.
 

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While I can't speak to Dillon problems, I can say that the mis-seated primers were a problem to me using hand priming tools. It started with a lee auto prime and continued with every hand priming tooI tried. With my latest tool, a Hornady, the problem was solved by supporting the primer punch. Don't know if this is possible in the Dillons but with the hand tool, I made 2 short bushings, just larger than primer OD's and new larger dia. primer punches for each large and small that fit the bushing. The bushings fit in the shell holder, I had to shorten the pilot area in the feed tray that center the shell holders, but no ill affects, and new punch goes in ram of tool. The object is that the punch is supported all around as primer is pressed into case. It prevents the punch from skating off to the unsupported side when a resisting primer is encountered thus stopping an uneven seating. Maybe this concept could be adapted to the Dillon problem
I think it would be safe to say that no, it cannot be a factor in the 550b priming system.

The problem with Large Pistol primers not seating to the bottom of the primer pockets, seems to be that there is a mechanical "stop", that stops the Large Primer Seating Punch (13967) from bottoming the primer in the pocket. That and the fact that pulling forward on the press while pushing the handle on the priming stroke, seems to allow fully seating the primers. Giving the handle that quick "bump" when seating the primers also suggests slop in the machine. But, that is a pain to have to do that. Brian Enos (again, I am not sure it was him) was convinced that the bottom of the primer cup was that stop, but observation and paper pinch strips demonstrates that the bottom of the primer cup does not make contact with the Primer Slide(13854) so, taking a couple of thousandths off the bottom of the cup is not the "fix". Note that if the bottom of the primer cup was contacting the primer slide, the primer slide being Aluminium Alloy, the primer cup being steel, it would leave a mark on the primer slide of any well-used 550b.

I have never found what stops the (13775) Main Ram, (13781) Shell Plate Platform, et. al., on the priming stroke, nor has anyone including Dillon (via their defunct forum), ever answered that question. Most answers have just been the "usual suspects", including (13799) Stripper Wing Nut too tight, screws on the Roller Bracket Platform backed-out, etc.
Therefore, if any 550b (or 550c) owner can attest to what the mechanical stop is for the priming stroke and has gone through the trouble of testing their theory by pinching that point with a strip of paper (instead of just guessing), I will be very grateful.
 

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Did you call Dillon about it? Every time I've ever reached out to them, I've been blown away by their customer service. I had a problem one time with a primer pickup tube and they sent me a whole new set of them. They are legit great people to work with and are extremely knowledgeable. They've seen it all.
 

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All in all I am very pleased with the primer seating setup on my 550. Only real problem I have had with it is the walnut from my case cleaning media getting into the works and gumming it up. If you use walnut cleaning media like me frequent inspection of the priming components and the cleaning of them will save a lot of headaches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The primer seating stem can come loose causing movement. It's not the sturdiest in the world. Recheck the seating stem height per Dillon's instructions and firmly tighten the set screw. I have to retighten mine from time to time.
I'll check that. I'm still seating primers high and out of square despite trying some of the techniques mentioned earlier.
 

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I'll check that. I'm still seating primers high and out of square despite trying some of the techniques mentioned earlier.
Use calipers to check the height setting. It's critical. The primer won't square itself until seated properly. It can't seat properly if the primer seating punch is not set at the proper height.
 

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I'll check that. I'm still seating primers high and out of square despite trying some of the techniques mentioned earlier.
RE: primer punch slipping.
I have used cut pieces of steel shim stock to set the height of the primer punch to Dillon spec and found the primer punch slipping is not the problem. As a matter of fact, I shimmed it a couple of thousandths higher than spec and found that the rotation of the shell plate becomes impeded. It is notable that if Dillon had designed the set-screw to come in at the bottom instead of the side, a bottom set screw would have kept the primer punch from slipping as with its current side arraignment, while at the same time being easier to set to spec.
In short, a slipping primer punch is one of those "usual suspects" when there is a priming problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Use calipers to check the height setting. It's critical. The primer won't square itself until seated properly. It can't seat properly if the primer seating punch is not set at the proper height.
When I set it up after installing the new primer punch parts, I did check that it was the proper height with calipers.

I set the height by trial and error while the punch assembly was in the machine to try and tighten it down while keeping it square.

Is there a better way of doing this? the primer punch assembly has a lot of wiggle room and is easy to install crooked.
 
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