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You could snip off the end of the hammer (making it a little shorter) From what I recall this used to be a fairly common thing to do. I'm not sure if this would affect the lock time or how hard it strikes, though I don't believe it would make a real difference. What I did many years ago, was: I got a commander hammer and installed it, then with a file I notched out the grip safety, once it all fit correctly I then smoothed it out with emory cloth. It looks similar to the Colt Officers model or Para Ordinance style grip safety. It took a little time and paitence but turned out pretty good. No problems in 20 years and a whole lot of lead downrange.
 

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RKJ wrote: "You could snip off the end of the hammer (making it a little shorter) From what I recall this used to be a fairly common thing to do. I'm not sure if this would affect the lock time or how hard it strikes, though I don't believe it would make a real difference."

I have three pistols which I bobbed the hammers and there is no functional loss whatsoever. There is a small spur left on them to thumb cock (for dry fire purposes) though the leverage is definitely to the pistols advantage that way. I bobbed them because I went to a shorter origonal 1911 grip safety spur or to a Clark beavertail.

Theoretically, the lock time should be faster but my ability doesn't detect any difference.
 

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On the GI model, it's not the hammer that bites. It's the grip safety. Very sharp, not user friendly edges. I bought a Wilson, and as Shootscraps said. Acouple of well placed bandaids will work for a while. I have a scar on the web of my hand from the GI. I look forward to the Wilson GS. Also including a Wilson hammer and trigger. Already have SA high profile sights.
 

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I tried a friends Colt Commander that had a drop in beavertail, and I hated it. 7 rounds and my hand was red and getting chewed up from the grip safety. I got a SA WW2 GI, and the hammer bite wasn't a problem, but my web of my hand would get very red and irritated from the grip safety, so I knocked the corners off, but that didnt help. I finally broke down and got a chip mccormick hammer and sear, and a S&A beavertail with the palm swell and fitting jig. It took about 2 hours with a mill file, Dremel, sanding drums and needle files, but now it feels soooo much more comfortable. The jig and beavertail were like $55 plus shipping, and you can bob your orig hammer to save on that end. Well worth it in my book!
 
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