[Scottytuned]

I hit my first (of what I anticipate to be many) snags as I build my 1st 1911/2011. Hoping I can get some tips from some of the experts on here.

Here are the parts that I am using:

STI Disconnector
Brazos Pro Trigger Group
Ed Brown Machined Ambi Safety

I only list the parts so you know that I am working with good parts, and I don't believe there is inherently anything wrong with them (this is a builder/fitting issue).

I put everything together, and I'm getting close to what I'm after. The trigger is a REALLY crisp and clean 2-2.25 lbs. Grip safety (Ed Brown Machined) functions properly, and will only release the trigger/hammer when depressed in. The part where I am struggling is getting my thumb safety in. I believe this part needs fitting with the other parts (which I've learned so far with 1911/2011s, this is common). I can get the thumb safety in 90% of the way, but I believe it could be hitting on the sear, so not fully going in. Dykem is not really showing where I am hitting, but I think it is a small area between sear and thumb safety not mating up. Just so I understand proper procedure for working to remedy this:

Do I slowly and lightly work on the sear to make the thumb safety fit, or do I slowly and lightly work on the thumb safety to fit the sear? My natural thought is to work on the sear since that is the cheapest of the parts, but again, I'm learning.

I am assuming that since the trigger works, and the grip safety works, I have installed things correctly (please tell me if this is wrong). I'm looking to fix this on my own, with a 'smith being the last resort. If I have to swallow my pride and send it off I can, but looking to make this "my" build if at all possible. If I need to get pics to show this, I certainly can to explain my struggles more.

 

[ArcLite]

Remove and leave the grip safety out. That way you can look right in the back and see where the thumb safety is hitting. See if that helps.

Oh, and remove metal from the thumb safety...leave the sear alone. Just go slow and repeatedly reinstall and check.

 

[Alland]

Your first step should be to put the safety in the frame only and verify that the safety has full range of travel without the sear in place. I have found several where this was a problem and must be corrected first.

 

[Scottytuned]

Perfect! Thank you for the tips. I forgot to mention that I did install it without internals, and had full range of travel and was good.

I'll slowly get to work on the thumb safety and report back. Great tip on leaving out the grip safety. Will certainly help see things better.

 

[ArcLite]

The first one I did, nobody told me I could leave the grip safety out and it took two forevers to get that thing fitted! Lol!

 

[Scottytuned]

I worked on it a little bit. Without the grip safety it was much easier to see where I was hitting. I did very light filing on thumb safety and got it fitted. Unfortunately I can't get it to move up or down once in. Could I have the sear in wrong perhaps or something? anyone else experienced this? I feel like I've poured over YouTube videos to make sure I'm doing it right. The trigger still works just fine, but the grip safety feels locked in place when it takes up against the back of the sear.

 

[PD5523]

The thumb safety requires more fitting on the stud blocking the sear. You've removed enough to allow it to be inserted but additional fitting is required to allow it to rotate upward while still blocking the sear.


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[NoExpert]

This link will get you to excellent instructions for safety fitting:

https://forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=5613488&postcount=6

 

[Scottytuned]

Thank you for all the individuals who have posted and sent links. I have read for hours on the topic, and think I am getting closer, but still have a road block. I am now able to get the thumb safety (TS), but it will still not rotate. I took a number of pics (sorry, not great ones), to show you my process for how I am putting together. I feel I have to be doing something incredibly basic and stupid, and you all will be like "Oh yea, you're forgetting this."

My process:
1. Place sear and disconnector into place. Large curve of sear towards "top" of the gun. Disconnect through the frame, and bottom laying on trigger bow. Putting pin through both of those.

2. Inserting hammer/strut. Pin through that.

3. Sear spring into notch on bottom. Sear spring laying down over the top of each component.

4. Mainspring housing push up, center strut onto mainspring housing pin, pin through the bottom of frame.

5. Cock hammer, place right side of thumb safety into hole, and rotate down over the hammer pin. Place left side of thumb safety into hole, matched up with right side, then push into place.

6. Thumb safety will not budge.

Other tips that may help diagnose.
-I am not doing this with the plunger/spring in for ease
-I am no longer installing the grip safety, but when I did, it functioned properly
-Trigger works perfect and is extremely crisp and clean. When I do that function test I slowly lower the hammer so it doesnt smack the frame in case you are worried about that.
-(this could be telling) I can install the thumb safety in the uncocked, half-cocked, and full-cocked positions of the hammer. I can only remove it though when it is half-cocked or uncocked.

Here is pictures of my steps to help identify why I may be an idiot, and you can point it all out.

Video of thumb safety installed, and the lack of movement.
View My Video

 

[DesmoAndrew]

I have always found this image to really help one understand what parts fit with what, thumb safety wise. You can see the surface that needs to slide past the sear.

This also helps you visualize how the thumb safety blocks the sear from movement - and thus the criticality of the fit.

 

[gunnut606]

Do this :

Install the TS with the hammer fully cocked, look for contact between the TS and the lower left corner of the sear from the rear where the grip safety goes, that is the area you need to work on, and from your last picture, it would be the highest point of the nub.

.

 

[DesmoAndrew]

with reference to your thumb safety image, this is the surface you most likely need to slowly alter to provide clearance (red arrow).

 

[Scottytuned]

You guys are absolutely awesome. I hope to work on this over lunch/maybe this evening. I will report back. Thank you so much!

 

[BBBBill]

...I believe this part needs fitting with the other parts (which I've learned so far with 1911/2011s, this is common)...

Lock that into your brain. Expecting that will help you avoid significant frustration. All 1911 parts are subject to fitting.

 

[Scottytuned]

You all are lifesavers. As pointed out, I hadn't taken off enough from that surface in the pic above. When people talk about .0001" and ultra tight clearances, I assumed that it would have been pretty close from the factory. After continuing to file down, I was able to get it fitted with absolute zero movement. I did one stroke on the file, reinstall, test, then another stroke on the file until it came out perfect. Extremely pleased. The thumb safety, grip safety, and trigger functioned flawlessly. I need to do the cosmetic work with blending on the outside, but very happy to get this bump in the road cleared. I will be doing a full-build thread once this project is completed, so stay tuned.

Lock that into your brain. Expecting that will help you avoid significant frustration. All 1911 parts are subject to fitting.

I had read that multiple times before getting into it, so I knew that it would require some finesse and fitting. This was just an area that was baffling more than the others that I've hit. Much appreciative of this forum and help it provides!

 

[Slow bullet guy]

That is the same area that gave me fits. However, mine produced a different symptom. The Jerry K manuals are helpful, but one has to read between the lines and understand each gun is a unique fit of its own.
I found that most tutorials available online from reputable vendors such as Brownells and Wilson Combat don't go very deep into the "other areas" that need attention. This is indeed the sort of trial that separates the 1911 smiths from the 1911 amatures.
Good job!