[Allthewayto11]

Assuming Kimber can fix what appears to be an external extractor issue (I have no idea if they are putting internals on full size), I will also likely fix the Series II issue. It has not yet failed to fire, but I did the GS/release test, and you have to have it nearly completely depressed to get the pin to engage. The hammer can be made to drop before this point. This too is simply unacceptable. Do modifications (e.g., any grinding) need to normally be made to a Series 70 pin, or is it generally the right length/width to drop right in?

 

[SMMAssociates]

I'm not sure I'm qualified to answer this, but wth, it's never stopped me before.

The first I heard of this was the other night, and the poster didn't mention any grinding or other modification to the pin.

It appears that the Schwartz system is such that the actual block can be displaced by the firing pin, and once displaced will stay that way, although what the friction issues (since the block will still rub on the pin) would be, I don't know....

Putting on Mas Ayoob hat for a minute: It's never a good idea to remove safety devices from a carry gun.... Strictly a liability thing, but expecting juries to understand why you'd remove the firing pin block safety even though it's probably a smart move for your own protection, may be iffy....

IANAL and just IMHO....

If it's not a carry gun, though, it might make more sense to remove the block. The little pin in the frame ought not to bother anything, but you could cut it flush with the top of the frame if that's a problem.

(Gunslick or Lubriplate ought to handle the friction issues, btw. That may be the worst part about the Schwartz system - you really can't lubricate the stuff in the slide without taking things down way too far - removing the rear sights.)

Regards,

 

[Kruzr]

A Series 70 pin will drop in and replace the Kimber factory pin if that's what you want to do.