[GLH1]

If I would have the ejection port lowered..does that require a reblue of the slide or can it be cut down without a reblue.

I do not wish to have the slide reblued as it is mint.

Thanks,Gary

 

[Jim Watson]

If it is neatly done, you can just leave the cut edges bright, I've got one like that and it doesn't look bad. Otherwise, touchup with a good cold blue is what most gunsmiths do. Along the cut edges there the small difference in color should not be obvious and it is not a high wear area.
Either would leave you with the unmodified bulk of the slide in its original finsh.

 

[pxchang0]

Originally posted by GLH1:
If I would have the ejection port lowered..does that require a reblue of the slide or can it be cut down without a reblue.

I do not wish to have the slide reblued as it is mint.

Thanks,Gary

I had the ejection port lowered on my old Series 80 back in the early 80's. After all these years, you couldn't tell that it didn't come from the factory that way.

Guess it depends on the skill level of the person applying the bluing.

 

[Tony Gattuso]

Are you having some kind of function problems with the standard size opening?

I've got several 1911 type guns (colts and Argie M1927s) and while I can see some brass marks inside the slide where the case is touching on ejection I've never had one hang up.

If it aint broke......

Tony g.

 

[pxchang0]

Originally posted by Tony Gattuso:
Are you having some kind of function problems with the standard size opening?

I've got several 1911 type guns (colts and Argie M1927s) and while I can see some brass marks inside the slide where the case is touching on ejection I've never had one hang up.

If it aint broke......
Tony g.

I'm not the original poster, but the older 1911s would severely ding the brass. It wasn't a malfunction matter, but a case matter.

At least it was for me back in the days before they came lowered from the factory.

 

[GLH1]

A case matter not a malfunction issue..

 

[dsk]

Whether or not a high ejection port causes problems is dependent on the individual gun. BTW I have a pre-Series 70 that had the ejection port lowered back when it was brand-new w/o refinishing, and after all these years it too looks like it came from the factory that way.

Funny thing though, it still dings brass.

------------------
D. Kamm
USGI M1911/M1911A1 Pistols Website
http://www.geocities.com/M1911_M1911A1

[This message has been edited by dsk (edited 08-06-2001).]

 

[Dave Sample]

I like the looks of a lowered port and if it is done by a competent 'smith it doesn't need to be refinished. Leave it shiny or cold blue it back. The brass will still be dinged, however, unless you have a roll-over notch done at the rear of the port. The sharp edge at the top of the breechface will also cause dings. What I wonder is, why not leave it alone? To do it right, the slide should be re-finished. Theres more to it than just dropping the side of the port.

[This message has been edited by Dave Sample (edited 08-06-2001).]

 

[Bob Brown]

Gentlemen: When the 1911 was first proposed, the Army dictated a change in the design of the ejection port. Mr. Browning did not design it at the height you see on all old military pieces. Originally it was much lower, to permit a more horizontal exit and trajectory. The Army decided that it was not nice to be in a foxhole, firing at an approaching enemy when your buddy was peppering you with hot .45 brass...it burns! So, the ejection port was raised to give a more straight-up path for that brass to exit. Therefore, if you want the brass to get out without banging into anything, you need to lower the port to at most .450 height, and also round off that sharp corner at the top rear of the port. Frankly, I never did believe that bit about the "Gold Cup Flare" helping the case "roll out"...it just doesn't compute. Oh, I believe Les Baer is lowering his ports to about .430, but I personally wouldn't like to go quite that skinny on a ball gun.