Hound_va said:On a 1911 with a fairly tight fitting barrel bushing, the first thing out should be the slide stop lever. The reason for this is to minimize any additional potential wear on the barrel and the bushing which occurs when turning the bushing when the barrel is fully locked up. A barrel bushing will have approximately .001 clearance when the barrel is in the locked position. If the slide stop lever is removed first, the slide assy can be removed from the frame as a whole. The recoil spring plug can be removed from the rear and the barrel can be slid forward so one does not have the possibility of creating additional wear at the barrel / bushing interface. Kuhnhausen states in his book that a properly fitted accuracy barrel bushing accounts for approximately 20% of the mechanical accuracy of the 1911. It's a fairly simple way to maintain the tight tolerances that were part of the reason the pistol cost what it did.