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The stock slide stop on my Colt is slightly over machined on the thumb engagement surface which I originally thought was merely cosmetic, but its the rear side that is slightly machined down and it can give less positive grip on my thumb when sweaty, etc. I have been looking into buying a new slide stop like the Ed Brown Hardcore or the Wilson Bullet proof, but I was wondering if these hardened stops could wear out the slide stop hole in the frame or the slide stop cutout on the slide if they are harder than the frame/slide metal. Just a mental experiment, but I would rather wear out a softer cast part than have wear on my frame or slide. Is there any legitimacy to this concern?
 

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Neither the Wilson or the Brown will damage your frame or your slide. The hardness of that part is not as critical as the toughness or ductility of it. If the stop is overly hardened and brittle it will most likely break in short order. If the engagement angle of the stop is off where it enters the holdback notch in th slide is off it could chew up the notch in time. In other words you want the stop's lug to engage well up into the slide notch rather than just at the bottom corner. Just keep a close eye on the slide's notch to see if it is going to cause a problem.
 

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The bearing area of the frame is quite large. I have never seen the frame hole elongated yet.
The chance of battering between the slide stop and slide can be minimized by matching the angles. A search should give a lot of info on that.

Regards,:)
Kur
 

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I was wondering if these hardened stops could wear out the slide stop hole in the frame or the slide stop cutout on the slide if they are harder than the frame/slide metal.
Hard parts only wear/indent softer parts when the hard parts are rough or sharp, or there is a significant miss-match between the shapes of what should be closely matching bearing areas.

Even if the slide notch angle is slightly off from that of the slide stop, the peening of the notch should stop once the slide's surface has been peened to match that of the slide stop, assuming the latter is correct.

It is a matter of contact area for the load - if the area is too small to support the load, the softer metal get re-shaped until the area increases and is able to support the load. Cold working of the softer metal also tends to harden the softer metal and then the process should stop.

If the engagement of the stop in the slide's notch is too shallow for some reason, it will continue to peen the notch until the slide is obviously distorted. Such a problem should become obvious in the first 50 rounds, if it exists and should be corrected before it spoils the slide.
 

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If the engagement angle of the stop is off where it enters the holdback notch in th slide is off it could chew up the notch in time. In other words you want the stop's lug to engage well up into the slide notch rather than just at the bottom corner. Just keep a close eye on the slide's notch to see if it is going to cause a problem.
I had the proverbial slide-stop replacement when I sent this gun in to Kimber for repairs/adjustments. It wasn't feeding well,as I recall.

This is the way the new slide stop was sent back to me. It sure looks like something's wrong top me;but,whatever they did,the gun runs fine now. It looks like this was done intentionally. The slide-notch looks OK to me.

Snapped a quick pic:


Is this gonna cause problems down the road? I have not been able to shoot much since getting the gun back;maybe 50 rounds.
 

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I had the proverbial slide-stop replacement when I sent this gun in to Kimber for repairs/adjustments...
This is the way the new slide stop was sent back to me. It sure looks like something's wrong top me;but,whatever they did,the gun runs fine now. It looks like this was done intentionally. The slide-notch looks OK to me.

Is this gonna cause problems down the road?...
Err... that's just plain wrong! The minimal contact surface will most likely peen the notch in short order.
 
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