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Should I sell it?

888 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Dave Sample
I have a Kimber Custom Stainless that I had the barrel changed out for a Briley fully supported one. My first problem was I had no problem, I had wanted a gun with a supported barrel. Anyways, now it is very fussy about the ammo. The bullets have to be at least 1.268 (I am shooting 230 gr RN jacketted)and have a very tight crimp otherwise it jams the rounds back in the case when it hits the supported feed ramp. I have a stock custom royal and it will feed anything. I can take a bullet that jams in my stainless and feed it through my royal with no problems. I am seriously considering selling it because it is so picky. however I have about $1600 into it so I hate to sell it. I would like to keep also so I was wondering if there was anything I can do. Your help is much appreciated.
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thunderstick, You're not alone in your Kimber being finicky with the supported barrel. Most smiths, when asked about a supported barrel for a 45 ACP in a 1911 will tell you that they actually feed better without. That's seems contrary, since most "modern" designs have ramped barrel and tend to be reliable. You don't really need to sell the gun. Just have some reliability work done to make the gun function properly. It sounds as though you might need to have a reamer run in the chamber to open it up a bit while you're at it. The gun can be reliable again.

Don Williams www.theactionworks.com www.pickagripcom
Uh...put the original barrel back in the gun?!
...I'm just one of those that likes to take 'em back to the last point they were workin' and see if that does it...It's really amazing the things we do to make our guns stop workin' sometimes!

...Not you personally...Just relating my OWN experience...S'worth a try, NO?


!!!Molon Labe'!!!
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I'm sure your deep-seating, feeding trouble is directly related to the configuration of the barrel's feedramp.
Most smith's do not want to alter the factory feedramp to any appreciable degree.
I've found it is necessary to remachine to the point that the cartridge is no more supported than on a conventional barrel.
The bottom of the feedramp should sit perhaps .060" forward of the frame, then a small and shallow ramp is cut into the frame at this point to accomodate rounds striking the frame below the barrel feedramp. The upper portion should expose as much case as a factory barrel.
This usually means steepening the angle by a significant degree and moving it forward by as much as .050".
George Smith is one of the resident smith's familiar with this process.
I am currently re-assembling a ramped barrel 45 that has just come back from replating. If anyone would like, I might be able to post a couple of pics.

[This message has been edited by pistolwrench (edited 10-16-2001).]
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Pistolwrench, if you had pictures that would be great. Do you know how much it usually costs to get something like this fixed?
Thunderstick. You have violated Eagles Law: If it works, don't fix it. You should have Pistolwrench fix it of Don W. To the other comment, once you have made the frame cut for a ramped barrel, you can't go back. Have it fixed and whatever the cost is unimportant.Chuck can do it. Don can do it. I don't do stuff like that to 45ACP's for any amount of money because it is DUMB. It would have been nice to ask for some advice before the fact which one could serve as a lesson to others.I don't want to know who the Smith is that did it to you. I am glad I never did things just for the money like some of these guys.
Thunder, have Chuck, Don or one of the guys do just what chuck said.

Don may be right on that the chamber may be snug.

Chuck is doing what we do. the factory 70 ser colt (kind of a std in some ways) had the feed ramp extend down .420 from the rail.
Moving the ramp forward and putting a small ramp on the frame helps these guns tremendously. Just finished one and Chuck is right on, the support is identical to a stock barrel. (para's only need a micro one)

You can go back. make a filler block that is shaped like the barrel and tig it in, recut a ramp back in. I think it happend some with the caspian frame kits that were cut for ramps and sold a wile back.

Your choice, but your not stuck either way.
cutting the ramp and throating the barrel would be less expensive.

and don't listen to dave, he's usally grumpy

geo ><>
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Thanks George. That's the nicest thing you've ever said about me! Suffering fools has made me grumpy. My apologies to all for growling at you.Having a brain that works is a Gypsy Curse these days!I guess that "look before you leap" is a lost concept.
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