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Discussion Starter #1
I am fairly new to reloading but things seem to be going fairly smooothly except for one thing.

I have measured all of the ammo that I have made and the measurements are right on with the factory ammo that I have been using. But about every five or six shots the slide will fail to go all of the way back so it is not chambering the next round. They are shooting right on point of aim. Also when I manually cycle the slide most of them will chamber and eject normally but then some of them won't. I have used calipers to compare them to the factory loads and to my handloads that are working and they are exactly the same. Is it my reloading or do I need a new ejector or a heavier recoil spring or what. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

230 fmj
6.0 grains of VitaVhori 340
New Starline Brass or Used Fonnici brass
Whinchester Large pistol primers.


Thanks!!
 

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Where did you get your load data? (Wondering what the velocity rating is). I know that with very light loads, sometimes slide will not cycle fast enough and cause a FTF (fail to feed). I am not familiar with load with the powder you list. I use Red Dot, Bullseye, Unique, Win 231 or Dupont 700X for my .45's. It may be just the load or that you have a very heavy recoil spring installed. Regards, NAA.

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Discussion Starter #3
In the Vihta Vuori Reloading Guide that came with the powder. It says that with the min. load (6.0 grains) that the velocity should be 846 fps. Max. load is 6.5 grains with 928 fps. ???
 

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Try increasing the load to a mid range load and see if it helps if not it may be the same problem I ran into. I would fire off a hundres rounds with no problem then every once in a while the wife would shoot and end up with a FTF and what the problem was from was limp wristing. She didn't know she was doing it. Since then there has been no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is my problem. I had thought about the load not being powerful enough but when I manually cycle the slide it is like it locks up and the slide doesn't go all of the way back down. Then I have to force the slide back to eject the bullet. I don't know what is wrong. I have measured the length and the with in several places against factory loads. Any thoughts.
 

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So the bullet won't chamber correctly? If that is the case play with the crimp alittle. You can load the magazine and cycle all the rounds manually.. Just don't touch the triger.. LOL If you find a hang up that way then you should be able to rule out charge. Then it comes down to the bullet it self. If some do it and some don't then just investigate the differences in the two or so. OAL, Diameter in different places on the case, case type and so on. I know our gun doesn't like Speer cases at all! Let me know what you find.

I see that its a 230gr FMJ is it a FP or a RN?

[This message has been edited by Jgedeon (edited 11-27-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I measured them and they are all the same? They are round nose. This is the funny thing. If one of them hangs up and I eject it I can put it back in the magazine and it will cycle through sometimes and sometimes it won't. I am getting ready to show my lack of experience here but how do you crimp the ammo. I have the LEE Aniversery set. With the three peice die set??? If I can't fiqure it our tonight I am going to take my gun and the ammo that I loaded down to my gunstore tommarow and see if someone there can help me. I am getting extreamly frustrated.
 

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It is difficult to tell from your post exactly what is happening, and even more difficult to diagnose a problem. It could be any one or more of a number of things.

You may find problems with sizing, expanding, crimping, powder measuring, primer seating, or other things.

The best thing to do is get with a friend who is a successful reloader and have him look things over before you do anything. In particular, do not increase powder charges until you understand the problem.

For a quick check, you can take the barrel out of your pistol and see if the reloads drop into the chamber easily. If there is the slightest hesitation in chambering by gravity, your reloading procedures need attention.

This all presumes that factory ammo feeds perfectly in your pistol. If not, the pistol may need some attention.

Do you have a friend that can help?


[This message has been edited by KLN (edited 11-27-2001).]
 

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Crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp Die. After seating. It will resize and put a crimp on it. You may need to get one. They should make their die sets a four die set. It really is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone. A friend of mine from my shooting club reloads and I will get him to help me out. And I will see what the guys at the gun stores have to say.( I will get a crimping die while I am there). Factory ammo runs through the gun great. I don't know. I am really new to this. Thanks for all of your help.
 

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I had run into that while getting lighter loads from a local reloader here, I put in a lighter spring and the problem was gone, maybe trying a different lb (16?) will help ask a smith around you

Tom
 
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Originally posted by Jgedeon:
Crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp Die. After seating. It will resize and put a crimp on it. You may need to get one. They should make their die sets a four die set. It really is needed.
Agreed, I use a Lee factory crimp die and it works great. Also use the Dillon case guage to check the ammo before it goes into the can.

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Originally posted by thesenator:
Also use the Dillon case guage to check the ammo before it goes into the can.

Or just take the barrel out of the gun. Will the round drop in and out freely or not? If so, it is something in the gun or the powder charge is not near enough to factory (unlikely.) If not, you probably do not have enough taper crimp - or any.
 

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Did you measure the diameter of the case, just at the end, where the bullet comes out?

At the very tip end of the case, what is the measurement?

When I crimp, I like to get this measurement to .468, but with FMJ, usually it's .469.

But it should be no greater than .470 or you would experience pretty much this problem.

The Lee Factory Crimp Die solved this problem for me as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone. I took my stuff to the gunsmith in town and he is going to look at it and advise me from their. Also I was looking at another thread on the Reloading forum and saw something that said that you really had to watch the expander die so that it didn't bell to much. He said that that would make it so that they wouldn't chamber right. Also I ordered the Lee Carbide Crimp Die. Thanks for your help. When I get everything strait I will update you.
 
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Originally posted by Jim Watson:
Or just take the barrel out of the gun. Will the round drop in and out freely or not? If so, it is something in the gun or the powder charge is not near enough to factory (unlikely.) If not, you probably do not have enough taper crimp - or any.

The case guage will tell you if there is a dent or ding in the rim of the cartridge which could interfere with feeding.
For chamber tolerance the barrel is great but for overall observation of the reload, and primer height, the guage is the way to go. As you insert the round, you run your finger over the primer and a high one will be detected right away. A high primer can spell disaster in a fixed firing pin subgun or any semi auto if its struck by the bolt.
I don't shoot any reloads that have not been guaged. It saves a lot of grief on the firing line.
 

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I agree with the Lee Factory Crimp Die suggestion. For automatics such as the 1911, the crimp is a taper crimp. The die simply squeezes the end of the case around the bullet. Take a look at a factory load and you'll see what I mean. The instructions for your FC die will say to use a half turn for a light crimp and one full turn for a heavy crimp. I usually use something just over a half turn.

Cartridges for revolvers usually use a roll crimp wherein the end of the case is gently rolled into the crimping groove (a.k.a. cannelure) on the bullet. Take a look at some 357 Magum, 38 Spl, or 44 Magnum factory loads, and you'll see the diff between a roll crimp and a taper crimp (Lee Factory Crimp).

If the use of the FC die does not cure the problem then, as others have said, you may want to increase the charge a little, or you can order a recoil spring with less tension if you like the load you're producing. I'm working on some light loads, for punching holes in paper, and they will not cycle the slide when I have the standard 16-pound recoil spring insatlled. I worked my way down in steps to a 12-pound spring for that service.

Good luck & good shooting!
 

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Looks like the consensus agree on the lack of crimping.
As for your load not being powerful enough, it is powerful enough. Even though the data said that your load is the starting load, it is about the same as factory hardballs. I wouldn't increase the load anymore.
 
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