I have a Charles Daly CS model that doesn't lock open everytime on the last round. After putting about 200 rounds throught it I have noticed that the cut out in the slide is being battered somewhat. What I would like to know is should I work on the slide or on the slide locking lever. This is my first 1911 and I'm not that familiar with all the names for the various parts yet but I think that you get the idea of the parts I'm talking about. Thanks to all for any and all suggestions.
Slide not locking open
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Try the easy way first, a different make magazine.
The follower is what pushes up the slide stop when empty.
Double check to make sure the pistol is unloaded, than look close when racking with a empty mag, and you should be able to see the problem.
Jack
[This message has been edited by jrchilds (edited 05-11-2001).]
This is a potentially serious problem, as the more the cut on the slide is peened at the corner, the worse the problem will get.
UNLOAD YOUR GUN and slowly push the slide back to see where the slide stop is hanging off. Also, try taking the slide off, inserting the slide stop into the frame and inserting an empty magazine. Examine the magazine follower to see if it is binding at the end of the mag.
I cured this problem on a pistol by very slight stoning of the slide stop to free it from rubbing the frame and slide, and a needle file to open the cut in the slide stop a little bit.
Good luck.
UNLOAD YOUR GUN and slowly push the slide back to see where the slide stop is hanging off. Also, try taking the slide off, inserting the slide stop into the frame and inserting an empty magazine. Examine the magazine follower to see if it is binding at the end of the mag.
I cured this problem on a pistol by very slight stoning of the slide stop to free it from rubbing the frame and slide, and a needle file to open the cut in the slide stop a little bit.
Good luck.
Speak of the devil, I devloped a similar problem just this afternoon. My slide would "lock" after the last round, but when I pressed the magazine release the slide would slam home! It seems that the slide stop was not fully going into the slot on the frame, so that the slide was held back only tenuously. Didn't take much of a jolt for the slide to slam home.
When I got home, I noticed the "battering" of the slot -- "peening". I suspect the magazines caused this, as I was trying new mags. I sure hope it won't require a new slide to fix this problem!
I finally got a chance to check out how the slide stop was working against the slide today. It seems to slide up okay but the forward part of the release hits against the slide cut so I think that I'll file that part down a little giving it a more slanted profile instead of a 90 degree. The magazines that I'm using is Meggars and one Colt. The Colt doesn't seem to have a very strong spring in it and doesn't work that well. After I file the release maybe it'll work okay. As soon as I get this done and get to the range I'll let everybody know how it works out. Thanks to everybody that gave me ideas to check out it was a great help to a newbie in the 1911 land.
Got to the range today and after the filing on the slide release the slide now locks open on the last shot. I filed the slide release down a little and just broke the edge of the front 90 degree. It evens locks open with the Colt magazine as well. Now I need to get serious about getting it sighted in as it seems to shoot about 3-6" low at 25 yards with Magtech 230 gr. ball ammo and even lower with 3-D 185 grain JHP. I've been holding off on this until I start to reload for it and see if I can get a load that will be closer to point of aim that way I won't have to file the front sight to far. As I said in my last post thanks to all for your advice on the cure of this problem.
I'm askin' the same question...is it the top of the stop the edge closer to the muzzle or the edge facing the piston? Also...are you talking about filing the inside edge of the slide...the edge that faces the frame rail?
Thanks...those are the surfaces it appears to be...I just don't know the "front" from the "rear" on a handgun I guess
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Thanks...those are the surfaces it appears to be...I just don't know the "front" from the "rear" on a handgun I guess
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>>>>>>>>>>g2<<<<<<<<<<
I Like The Shade Too!
Point your 1911 toward the fellow on your left (just kidding). Seriously, point the muzzle left.
Let's call the muzzle the front, and the other end the rear.
As you look at the slide stop cut on the side of the slide, you will notice that the front is rounded and the back is straight, with a sharp corner of around 90 degrees at the bottom of the slide where it meets the frame. Lock the slide back and observe how the surfaces of the slide stop and slide stop cut "mate" with one another. (No giggling in the back.)
Write this down: The back of the slide stop cut must be close enough to the back of the pistol to allow the slide stop to rise easily into the cut when the mag is empty. If the cut is too small or too far toward the front of the slide, or if the slide stop is oversize, this will not be the case.
The appropriate remedy depends on the fit of the parts and whether any significant damage has been done to the (about) 90 degree corner on the back of the slide stop cut. If this corner has three sides instead of two, the slide stop is increasingly less likely to lock into the cut and lock the slide back, especially if the fit issue is not addressed. It is likely to continue to hit low on the cut, wearing away more metal on the rear of the slide cut, turning the (about) 90 degree angle into a (about) 45 degree angle.
It is preferable, if there is no damage to the slide cut, to work only on the cheaper slide stop. If you must restore the slide cut to a 90 (about) degree corner, you will need a very small square or triangular file. Metal should be taken off the rear of the cut by drawing the file down at an angle corresponding to the proper angle of the rear of the slide stop cut (about 90 degrees). This will take patience, very slow removal of material, attention to filing at the proper angle and depth of cut (don't cut into the "flat" of the cut, or add any new angles or file marks to the slide).
If you are lucky, all you need to do is to fit your slide stop. You can do this by removing enough metal at the rear of the stop, preserving the 90 degree angle there, to allow the stop to rise freely into the cut. You can also enlarge the slot in the top of the slide stop if necessary.
Removal of too much metal will result in a sloppy fit, rattling, and the slide stop falling out on its own.
It is essential that you
1. be patient,
2. remove only a small amount of metal at a time
3. reassemble the frame (with mag inserted), slide and stop frequently to check whether you are finished.
4. stop removing metal as soon as the slide stop starts functioning properly.
5. concentrateand have good light.
You will have to do this when the wife and kids are out of the house and the dog has been fed. You will need between half an hour and two hours.
I have done this twice, once on the slide cut and stop and once just on the slide stop.
Do not work on the slide unless you have to.
Regards.
[This message has been edited by Ledbetter (edited 06-09-2001).]
Let's call the muzzle the front, and the other end the rear.
As you look at the slide stop cut on the side of the slide, you will notice that the front is rounded and the back is straight, with a sharp corner of around 90 degrees at the bottom of the slide where it meets the frame. Lock the slide back and observe how the surfaces of the slide stop and slide stop cut "mate" with one another. (No giggling in the back.)
Write this down: The back of the slide stop cut must be close enough to the back of the pistol to allow the slide stop to rise easily into the cut when the mag is empty. If the cut is too small or too far toward the front of the slide, or if the slide stop is oversize, this will not be the case.
The appropriate remedy depends on the fit of the parts and whether any significant damage has been done to the (about) 90 degree corner on the back of the slide stop cut. If this corner has three sides instead of two, the slide stop is increasingly less likely to lock into the cut and lock the slide back, especially if the fit issue is not addressed. It is likely to continue to hit low on the cut, wearing away more metal on the rear of the slide cut, turning the (about) 90 degree angle into a (about) 45 degree angle.
It is preferable, if there is no damage to the slide cut, to work only on the cheaper slide stop. If you must restore the slide cut to a 90 (about) degree corner, you will need a very small square or triangular file. Metal should be taken off the rear of the cut by drawing the file down at an angle corresponding to the proper angle of the rear of the slide stop cut (about 90 degrees). This will take patience, very slow removal of material, attention to filing at the proper angle and depth of cut (don't cut into the "flat" of the cut, or add any new angles or file marks to the slide).
If you are lucky, all you need to do is to fit your slide stop. You can do this by removing enough metal at the rear of the stop, preserving the 90 degree angle there, to allow the stop to rise freely into the cut. You can also enlarge the slot in the top of the slide stop if necessary.
Removal of too much metal will result in a sloppy fit, rattling, and the slide stop falling out on its own.
It is essential that you
1. be patient,
2. remove only a small amount of metal at a time
3. reassemble the frame (with mag inserted), slide and stop frequently to check whether you are finished.
4. stop removing metal as soon as the slide stop starts functioning properly.
5. concentrateand have good light.
You will have to do this when the wife and kids are out of the house and the dog has been fed. You will need between half an hour and two hours.
I have done this twice, once on the slide cut and stop and once just on the slide stop.
Do not work on the slide unless you have to.
Regards.
[This message has been edited by Ledbetter (edited 06-09-2001).]
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