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5,165 Posts
One way is to use a broach to clean up the hole, then fit a slide stop with an over-sized pin.
Slide stop pin hole repair?
2714
12
I have a Para p12 and the slide stop hole is a little sloppy. I just noticed it and have not measured it yet. I searched around here and other places and got the impression that once it is to bad, it becomes a paper weight. Welding and re milling was repeatedly shot down for the loss of temper in a critical area.
I was thinking that one could press fit a sleeve in the frame(.200 ID and .250 OD for example) and then re mill the barrel lug notch. Let me know if this would work or any other way that would work.
Thanks.
I was thinking that one could press fit a sleeve in the frame(.200 ID and .250 OD for example) and then re mill the barrel lug notch. Let me know if this would work or any other way that would work.
Thanks.
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The army used a staking tool to restore the size/roundness of the hole, but probably not something that's done any more.
I have a stainless SV slide stop, with .203" pin dia., that's taking up space in my parts box. PM me if interested.
I have a stainless SV slide stop, with .203" pin dia., that's taking up space in my parts box. PM me if interested.
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12,095 Posts
Bushing the hole
Nowlin built some guns for "the Jett" a few years back that were on aluminum frames. Their solution to the expected wear in these race guns was to mill/bore a hole thorough the frame centered on the slide stop pin hole, insert a steel bushing (I'm guessing about 5/16" diameter), and reboring the slide stop pin hole through the bushing. Of course they had to cut through the middle for the barrel feet to clear. I'm guessing at the sequence of events there, but the order that I suggested would work well. I don't know if the bushing was just press fit, installed with heavy duty locktite, staked, pinned, or something else. It would seem to be a workable way of salvaging an out of spec/damaged frame. George Smith at EGW or Chuck Rogers aka Pistolwrench would be good choices to tackle something like this. Of course they might not appreciate my suggesting this kind of work for them to tackle.
Nowlin built some guns for "the Jett" a few years back that were on aluminum frames. Their solution to the expected wear in these race guns was to mill/bore a hole thorough the frame centered on the slide stop pin hole, insert a steel bushing (I'm guessing about 5/16" diameter), and reboring the slide stop pin hole through the bushing. Of course they had to cut through the middle for the barrel feet to clear. I'm guessing at the sequence of events there, but the order that I suggested would work well. I don't know if the bushing was just press fit, installed with heavy duty locktite, staked, pinned, or something else. It would seem to be a workable way of salvaging an out of spec/damaged frame. George Smith at EGW or Chuck Rogers aka Pistolwrench would be good choices to tackle something like this. Of course they might not appreciate my suggesting this kind of work for them to tackle.
If the holes in the frame are not oval I would just install an oversized slide stop.Which is what I did right off the bat with my Para.
Out of the box the slide stop pin in my Para P14-45 was so loose you could see it move when cycling the slide.
Holes in the frame are right at .203" with no wear.The problem was the factory(cast)Para slide stop which had an undersized pin(.191" with .196" at one end at its widest point) and was oval with a rather nasty casting mark the full length of the pin.
Tossed the factory slide stop and installed a Wilson Bullet proof slide stop and things tighened right up and have remained that way.As advertised it was perfectly round and is .200".Best money I have spent in awhile.
I considered that to be a perfect fix and IMHO should be checked and replaced right out of the box.
If the frame is soft and the holes for the slide stop get oval I'd contact Para and let them fix it under their lifetime service policy.Sounds like a manufacturers defect to me.
Same could be said for the poor quality Para slide stop that was in my pistol...but I preferred to spend the money for a quality part and would not have settled for another cast slide stop anyway.
Out of the box the slide stop pin in my Para P14-45 was so loose you could see it move when cycling the slide.
Holes in the frame are right at .203" with no wear.The problem was the factory(cast)Para slide stop which had an undersized pin(.191" with .196" at one end at its widest point) and was oval with a rather nasty casting mark the full length of the pin.
Tossed the factory slide stop and installed a Wilson Bullet proof slide stop and things tighened right up and have remained that way.As advertised it was perfectly round and is .200".Best money I have spent in awhile.
I considered that to be a perfect fix and IMHO should be checked and replaced right out of the box.
If the frame is soft and the holes for the slide stop get oval I'd contact Para and let them fix it under their lifetime service policy.Sounds like a manufacturers defect to me.
Same could be said for the poor quality Para slide stop that was in my pistol...but I preferred to spend the money for a quality part and would not have settled for another cast slide stop anyway.
RickB set me up with his extra SV stop. Thanks again.
I started this topic to explore the options for someone (or me) with a bigger problem. It is a shame to have any 1911 as a paperweight.
I planned on getting an oversized slide stop since I measured the frame holes. It's .202 on the right and .203 on the left looking down the sights. The holes are not oblong so the oversized pin will fix what ails me.
I started this topic to explore the options for someone (or me) with a bigger problem. It is a shame to have any 1911 as a paperweight.
I planned on getting an oversized slide stop since I measured the frame holes. It's .202 on the right and .203 on the left looking down the sights. The holes are not oblong so the oversized pin will fix what ails me.
The slide stop pin hole would have to be pretty doggone bad before the piece became a paper weight. It depends on the use you're making of the gun. Unless that hole mikes at more than .206 or so, I wouldn't worry about it.
Bob
BTW, the best way is to drill it and install a good bushing. That area of the frame does take a pretty good beating, especially if you're using heavy loads and a heavy recoil spring.
And, I don't know anyone who makes a grossly oversided slide stop pin...and you'd have to take other things into consideration as well...barrel lug fit and Link, for instance.
Bob
BTW, the best way is to drill it and install a good bushing. That area of the frame does take a pretty good beating, especially if you're using heavy loads and a heavy recoil spring.
And, I don't know anyone who makes a grossly oversided slide stop pin...and you'd have to take other things into consideration as well...barrel lug fit and Link, for instance.
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