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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Slide Stop - REALLY DIFFICULT - Solved thanks to log man!!

I am new to 1911s. Been shooting other semiauto's for years. Not new to handguns.

I have field stripped my like-new Les Baer Premier II Stainless a few times so far, and I find it INSANELY difficult to insert the slide-stop. I am determined NOT to make any idiot marks, and I am getting a bit exasperated.

The slide-stop-plunger has ALOT of spring pressure behind it, and the cut of the slide stop is such that it does NOT depress the plunger by pressing it in. It just hits the side of the plunger and stops. I have been using three hands and feet to try to press in the plunger with the blunt end of of a bamboo skewer while pressing the slide stop down into position, and I am suffering greatly. Some one suggested using a credit card, but that is no help at all, just chewing up the card since the plunger spring is sooooo strong.

Even if I were totally unconcerned about gouging up the frame and slide, if I were a soldier in the field, I'd have a HELL of a time putting the slide stop back in. There must be a positive way to do this. . .

(With no exaggeration, it takes me about 10-15 minutes just to get the slide stop back in. This is ridiculous)
 

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Well, to avoid the "idiot mark" calm down a little bit. That is normal in a new gun. Try put some oil in the plunger tube and push it in with your finger to work the oil in and smooth out some of the surfaces. Under normal use the slide stop and the plunger will smooth themselves with time. To make it sooner, use some 600 to 800 grit sand paper and "polish" the contact surfaces.
 

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That's not needed. It sounds like you are trying to put the slide stop straight in. DON'T!! Insert the pin in the hole, now carefully swing the slide stop up under the detent pin, once you have it swung up inline with the notch it should go in. Be careful not to drag the lobe on the frame, that how you get the idiot scratch. If you look at the slide stop lobe you will see a bevel on the lobe, that matches up to the detent pin. Once you have the bevel and the detent pin tip matched up the bevel will do the work of depressing the detent pin.
 

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That's not needed. It sounds like you are trying to put the slide stop straight in. DON'T!! Insert the pin in the hole, now carefully swing the slide stop up under the detent pin, once you have it swung up inline with the notch it should go in. Be careful not to drag the lobe on the frame, that how you get the idiot scratch. If you look at the slide stop lobe you will see a bevel on the lobe, that matches up to the detent pin. Once you have the bevel and the detent pin tip matched up the bevel will do the work of depressing the detent pin.
A little bit of oil won't hurt either.:biglaugh:
 

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I wasn't talking about the oil, that never hurts. I was talking about the polishing. Slide stops are very easy to screw up, you cure one problem and make 2 new ones. Unless you know exactly what up are doing you are more apt to make more problems. The slide stop does an awful lot for such a small part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's not needed. It sounds like you are trying to put the slide stop straight in. DON'T!! Insert the pin in the hole, now carefully swing the slide stop up under the detent pin, once you have it swung up inline with the notch it should go in. Be careful not to drag the lobe on the frame, that how you get the idiot scratch. If you look at the slide stop lobe you will see a bevel on the lobe, that matches up to the detent pin. Once you have the bevel and the detent pin tip matched up the bevel will do the work of depressing the detent pin.
I see exactly what you mean, and that's just what I had been trying to do initially. But the spring in the plunger is so strong that it could be used in a truck suspension. Even with the slide off the frame, and without the slide stop to deal with, when I work the plunger with a piece of wood, it is insanely strong. It moves smoothly, but the spring tension is very powerful.
 

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Get a new spring! I have had problems with plungers that aren't properly cammed out of the way by the slide stop, but have never had to fight against a lot of spring tension.
 

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Since this is a new gun, I would call Les and discuss the problem with him, you don't want to do anything to void your warranty. The problem with that spring is that it also is the detent spring for the thumb safety. If you make it easier for the slide stop to go in, you make it easier for the thumb safety operation also, and that's not always a good thing.
 

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So, Baer uses a non-standard, proprietary plunger spring, and the proper function of the safety and slide stop are dependent upon it? I'd be very interested in knowing if that's the case.
 

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Find a Colt OEM plunger spring. Borroe one from a shooting pal, even with the two pins on the end, and substitute it for yours.
If things improve, get your own.
If not look for a "crush" spot in the plunger tube. Or an undersize hole in the tube. May be able to test that by pushing the pin in, then letting it snap out.
If it snaps out at speed, the holes "should" be OK.

There, two more things to check.:)

Regards,:)
Kur
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Since this is my first 1911, I have nothing to compare against. All my other semi-autos slide stops just snap straight in.

Many thanks for all the input so far. . .
 

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Using a toothpick (still inexpensive, even with our near worthless Federal Reserve Notes!) to depress the plunger in it's tube just a tad when starting the slide stop in makes things much easier.
 

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Orfeo, I'm having the same issues with my SA Loaded Micro Operator. I use a credit card to push the plunger in and all is well. Expect after a while it will become easier - frustrating at first.
 

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Brownell's sells a tool to depress the plunger.
 

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We all started with a lack of skill in the beginning, many years ago. It's just been so long we forget. Practice, practice....Ouch!!!!That's all I'm saying lest I offend.
 

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That's not needed. It sounds like you are trying to put the slide stop straight in. DON'T!! Insert the pin in the hole, now carefully swing the slide stop up under the detent pin, once you have it swung up inline with the notch it should go in. .
Exactly...pushing it straight down invariably causes the binding in the barrel link. Put a piece of tape below the assembly notch so you can rotate the stop up to the plunger while pressing down...that makes all the difference.

One other thing...when you are removing the stop, jiggle the slide til the pin almost drops out thencarefully note the exact position of the assembly/disassembly notch and get it as close to that position when assembling...believe me this is important.
 

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When reasembling I never push the thumb safely all the way back against the frame so the plunger spring is not compressed. Thus the slide stop drops in easily with no plunger pressure. Then I push in on the plunger under the thumb safety and push the safety back against the frame. No chance of idiot marks.
 
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