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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1911 Commander 9mm is stuck 3/8” out of battery with a spent casing in the chamber.

The bullet left the barrel as normal. Used factory Winchester ammo 9mm 115 grain. Shot rounds from same box in other guns same day with no issues.

The slide cycled smoothly during chamber check before loading and during load. All seemed fine.

The spent casing freely will move back and forth into the barrel and spin when rim is pulled with a tool. The extractor was grasping the empty case, but I unhooked it easily.

First I tried all the techniques I could find on the forum. For example, firmly grip slide and whack receiver with other hand; put wooden dowel down barrel and tap or whack with hammer. Use rubber mallet and whack in either direction; lock in vise and do the same; vigorously shake, etc. Try with grip safety and without grip safety. Make sure manual safety is off; even tried it with on. Lubricate and sit overnight, repeat. Tried with magazine in and out. Tried pushing down on the barrel while drawing the slide back; well the slide simply doesn’t move.

The slide does not move in either direction. So I decided to take off the bushing and recoil spring. I got the bushing off and removed the recoil spring, but i can’t get the barrel to unlock, and I can’t get the slide to move.

It looks to me like the barrel is fitting tight and not wanting to unlock for some reason from the slide.

All OEM parts. Nothing unique about build.

Seems like something broke inside, maybe the barrel lugs?

I’ve read about cutting the slide stop with a Dremel. Mentions inserting metal under the slide stop before cutting, etc. Btw, the slide stop does not move, is very tight to the frame and I’ve tried to insert the thinnest material under the slide stop, probably not even a micron of space.

Is there an alternative to cutting the slide stop? If the slide stop needs to be cut, where exactly does it get cut?
 

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Sounds like a bulged barrel. The slide stop will need to be cut. That is the least expensive issue you will have. sorry to say. To test for a bulge get a tight fitting brush or swab. run it down the barrel from the muzzle. If you feel a skip or looseness along the way that can indicate the bulge. Most likely the bulge is just inside the bushing by 3/8 since it is stopping rearward movement. You should also verify the round in the chamber is empty. Do this first by using a section of weep walker cord or a chopstick. insert into the barrel, make a pencil mark, pull out then compare to the barrel length.
 

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When I first assembled my Commander the lockup was so tight that the barrel would lock the slide if it was dry. The first hundred or so rounds were fired with a lot of oil on the barrel hood, lower lugs and slide lugs. Now I can’t make it happen on purpose and the lockup is perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the responses. Cartridge is verified empty, therefore the bullet left the barrel upon firing.

Any tip on how to cut the slide stop? I cannot even insert the thinnest piece of any material under the slide stop to protect the receiver before cutting. Do you have a specific Dremel wheel/cutter that is recommended?
 

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If you really want to cut the slide stop, get something and drive the pin out, that will give you some room to insert something under to protect the frame, and don't be shy about it, you may have to really beat on it.

"I wouldn't cut the slide release, something is going to get damaged / scratched." YES, the slide release will.

A friend's gun locked up at the range not long ago, he used an old .45 barrel from somewhere for the build, and the barrel feet broke off along with the lower part of the barrel, and that's what we did to disassemble the gun. And NO, he did not shoot some crazy hot loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies. The barrel will not move no matter which direction I push pull or bang.

I don't want to cut the slide stop, if another solution is available. However it appears this may be the only path.

Do you remember where on the slide stop you cut? Was it nearest to the pin? I assume yes so that it could rotate without hitting slide after cutting.

I will try to whack the slide stop pin, maybe use an arbor press to persuade it to move. Need to think about this one.
 

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It does not matter where you cut on the SS, once you cut through it, just drive it out from the other side, and the gun should come apart after that.
 

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Thanks for the replies. The barrel will not move no matter which direction I push pull or bang.

I don't want to cut the slide stop, if another solution is available. However it appears this may be the only path.

Do you remember where on the slide stop you cut? Was it nearest to the pin? I assume yes so that it could rotate without hitting slide after cutting.

I will try to whack the slide stop pin, maybe use an arbor press to persuade it to move. Need to think about this one.
If you start hammering on the ss pin without the slide getting to the disassemblely notch, you will screw up your slide.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Some pics would assist - as mentioned just hammering the ss pin not in the disassembly notch aligned can damage your slide.
Pix uploaded. So if I can't push the SS pin as is, I am unable to insert anything underneath it before I cut. I suppose the risk to damage from cutting is less than hammering the SS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Some pics would assist - as mentioned just hammering the ss pin not in the disassembly notch aligned can damage your slide.
Just a thought - If pressing the SS pin when not in the disassembly notch aligned will damage slide; then it suggest that even if I cut the SS, I would need to push out the SS pin when not in the disassembly notch. Am I missing something here?
 
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