Once the SS is cut you don’t have to worry about the disassembly notch. You can tap the SS cross pin section out independent of the part of the SS that is inside the slide. Then hopefully you can move the slide to line up the disassembly notch and remove that portion of the cut SS.Just a thought - If pressing the SS pin when not in the disassembly notch aligned will damage slide; then it suggest that even if I cut the SS, I would need to push out the SS pin when not in the disassembly notch. Am I missing something here?
Glad to hear it.GOOD NEWS.
I misspoke (miss-typed) when you asked if the bushing was removed. It was NOT removed. I was originally only able to move it, or rotate it clockwise and counter clockwise with much difficulty.
A few minutes ago, I gave rotating the bushing counter-clockwise an extra try and moved it all the way to 1/4 turn. I used a plastic bushing removal tool.
Then I clamped the lower part of the receiver in a vise, the grips area.
Using the plastic tool as a wedge to the back of the bushing, I whacked the plastic with a 12oz steel hammer with considerable force. After about 5-8 hits the bushing flew off the barrel.
the barrel and slide now move freely.
I have not examined anything further, or even take the gun apart, as I have other duties to attend. I will update once I exam internally.
THANK all of you for the insight
In maybe the pin that holds the barrel link to barrel it may have come part way out and is jammed in the frame that’s why the slide can only move rearward a short distance as you stated in your post. And your barrel isn’t unlocking. If you can get your slide stop out just a tiny bit you could slide a thin shim under it then make your cutMy 1911 Commander 9mm is stuck 3/8” out of battery with a spent casing in the chamber.
The bullet left the barrel as normal. Used factory Winchester ammo 9mm 115 grain. Shot rounds from same box in other guns same day with no issues.
The slide cycled smoothly during chamber check before loading and during load. All seemed fine.
The spent casing freely will move back and forth into the barrel and spin when rim is pulled with a tool. The extractor was grasping the empty case, but I unhooked it easily.
First I tried all the techniques I could find on the forum. For example, firmly grip slide and whack receiver with other hand; put wooden dowel down barrel and tap or whack with hammer. Use rubber mallet and whack in either direction; lock in vise and do the same; vigorously shake, etc. Try with grip safety and without grip safety. Make sure manual safety is off; even tried it with on. Lubricate and sit overnight, repeat. Tried with magazine in and out. Tried pushing down on the barrel while drawing the slide back; well the slide simply doesn’t move.
The slide does not move in either direction. So I decided to take off the bushing and recoil spring. I got the bushing off and removed the recoil spring, but i can’t get the barrel to unlock, and I can’t get the slide to move.
It looks to me like the barrel is fitting tight and not wanting to unlock for some reason from the slide.
All OEM parts. Nothing unique about build.
Seems like something broke inside, maybe the barrel lugs?
I’ve read about cutting the slide stop with a Dremel. Mentions inserting metal under the slide stop before cutting, etc. Btw, the slide stop does not move, is very tight to the frame and I’ve tried to insert the thinnest material under the slide stop, probably not even a micron of space.
Is there an alternative to cutting the slide stop? If the slide stop needs to be cut, where exactly does it get cut?
Can't happen. The pin is captured by the inner walls of the frame's barrel lug mortice. The pin may be loose and fall out when the barrel is out of the gun, but it can go nowhere with the barrel installed....maybe the pin that holds the barrel link to barrel it may have come part way out and is jammed in the frame...