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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a high quality drop-in barrel for a Combat Commander and am encountering a problem that I'd like some advice on before jumping in and working on it. When installed with the recoil spring, full-length guide, etc. the slide will not cycle fully, seeming to bind a little over halfway through it's cycle (when worked by hand, needless to say). The tolerances on this barrel are extremely high, and my gut feeling is that I need to take a little metal off each side of the bottom of the locking grooves to correct this problem. has anyone run into this phenomenon with not-quite-drop-in barrels before, and is this indeed the way to fix it? I've checked the fit of the muzzle bushing relative to the old barrel and can detect no differences. That's the only other thing I can think of...
 

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Chris this would take forever to type all the scenarios but lets start, first remove the guide rod and spring then reassemble now try to cycle if it moves freely chances are it the guide rod head is making contact with the bottom lugs.There are many possibilities here so lets go one at time also it is possible that the link needs adjustment.Try the above first take it slow and we will get it fixed.I will post solutions for you as needed. OCG1911
 

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Your situation is not unusual. Most "drop in" parts needs some fitting. Very few just drops right in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I reassembled the weapon less the guide rod and recoil spring this and the action binds just as it does with the guide rod and spring installed.

Thanks for offering to walk me through this.
 

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Sounds like the barrel isn't linking down enough.If the barrel came with a link,it's probably longer than the barrel stop surface will allow.The slide lugs usually slightly rub the top of the barrel hood,but not heavy.Two other things to check is that the barrel is stopping prematurely on the top of the frame rails or the inside of the slide above the rails.
 

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My advice to you would be to get a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book The Colt .45 Automatic A Shop Manual. This book explains the fitting of each and every part of the 1911 to great detail. Fitting a new barrel is not difficult but you really need to know exactly what you are doing and exactly why.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll say. I don't have the cash for another Ed Brown barrel handy...and the old one is unsafe. Someone got a little too happy with a Dremel tool and it's throated to the point where it won't fully support the cartridge. Since I'm rather attached to my hands and would like to remain so I've had a .45 caliber paperweight for a while.

-Chris
 

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Chris ,your barrel is most likely making contact at the bottom lugs ,Here is what you do if you do not have dykem use a blk marker apply the marker to the slide stop pin and the bottom lugs now reassemble the barrel in the pistol and hand cycle work the slide a few times to leave a good impression now diassemble tell me where it marking if it is two little shiny marks on the slide stop pin this called barrel bump you will need to gently remove material from the bottom lugs gently follow the radius use a parrel file. You can also slightly adjust the link elongate making the hole a little bigger. Ocg 1911
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK...looks like there's marks on the slide stop pin. What I'm seeing is two small spots exactly corresponding to the tips of the two lugs where the marker has been rubbed off. The rubbed-off area corresponding to the left-hand lug looks more pronounced than the other, which is a very faint tic mark.

-Chris
 

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Originally posted by Chris Reed:
OK...looks like there's marks on the slide stop pin. What I'm seeing is two small spots exactly corresponding to the tips of the two lugs where the marker has been rubbed off. The rubbed-off area corresponding to the left-hand lug looks more pronounced than the other, which is a very faint tic mark.
-Chris
Chris: You should really get someone on that pistol that is familiar with 1911's. Sometimes, but not always this problem can be traced to the barrels lower lugs. They might need to be trimmed with a lug cutter or stoned lightly to prevent binding as the gun is going fully into battery. Very seldom will you see any binding problems limked to radial lugs of improper dimensions. Barrel bushing, feet binding and some minor fitting is necessary.



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Chris
One quick thing to check before you get much further, dissasemble and set barrel in the linkdown portion of the frame. Do this without the slide, I have seen one time where the frame was too narrow to accept the barrels lower lugs in the linkdown mode.
Hope this helps, if so it will be a easy fix


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Chris from va
 

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Chris --

If you haven't tried this already, you should remove the link and pin from the barrel and then put just the slide and barrel on the frame. Cycle the slide and see if it will clear the barrel when the barrel is at its most rearword position (simulating link-down). If the slide clears with no drag, put the bushing in the slide and try again.

If the slide doesn't clear the barrel on either of these tests, then you will likely have to remove material from the inside of the slide's lug area. You can get a lug iron from Brownells -- a tool designed just for this.

If the slide does clear the barrel on both of these tests then you still have other issues with the barrel's lower lugs, the link length, etc, but you won't know for sure what the problem is until you try the tests above without the link in place.

Hope this helps!!

[This message has been edited by GrandmasterB (edited 05-23-2001).]
 
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