Alaska man,
Those willing to trade a decent pistol for restoration experience will get neither. JUST KIDDING. That's the beauty of stainless guns, if you want to change the finish or do some touch-ups on it, you just do it and good to go, no expense and wait for refinishing. I'd say take a whack at it, but maybe not with the Dremel. Is it shiny on the sides of the slide and frame? Get yourself some 400 wet/dry paper at the auto parts store, and somthing like a little block of wood or hard rubber that's maybe 1X1X3 or so (not critical), and use that as a sanding block with some of that paper on it. If you use water, or better, WD40, it will not load up and will give a better finish. After a few swipes you'll see what you need in terms of length of stroke, etc. If you screw it up a little, no biggie, just learn from your mistake and do it over! Might as well round off some of your sharp edges while you're at it. Then if you can get into somebody's bead or sand blaster for a few minutes, first clean the parts well so that tape will stick. Get some of that clear boxing tape, put it wherever you want to preserve the shiny, trim it with a razor-- and blast at low pressure so you don't blow the tape off. And it you do blow it off in some areas you can just touch them up with the 400 paper again. Hope that helps!
Those willing to trade a decent pistol for restoration experience will get neither. JUST KIDDING. That's the beauty of stainless guns, if you want to change the finish or do some touch-ups on it, you just do it and good to go, no expense and wait for refinishing. I'd say take a whack at it, but maybe not with the Dremel. Is it shiny on the sides of the slide and frame? Get yourself some 400 wet/dry paper at the auto parts store, and somthing like a little block of wood or hard rubber that's maybe 1X1X3 or so (not critical), and use that as a sanding block with some of that paper on it. If you use water, or better, WD40, it will not load up and will give a better finish. After a few swipes you'll see what you need in terms of length of stroke, etc. If you screw it up a little, no biggie, just learn from your mistake and do it over! Might as well round off some of your sharp edges while you're at it. Then if you can get into somebody's bead or sand blaster for a few minutes, first clean the parts well so that tape will stick. Get some of that clear boxing tape, put it wherever you want to preserve the shiny, trim it with a razor-- and blast at low pressure so you don't blow the tape off. And it you do blow it off in some areas you can just touch them up with the 400 paper again. Hope that helps!
