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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been itchin' to try to really knuckle down and see what my old Model 36 could do. Or rather, what I could do with it.

So I gathered up some varying handloads I loaded up this past winter and found a nice secluded spot.

I didn't have the gumption to try it one handed, so I had to use both.

Two different bullets were used. Some old Hornady swaged 158gr SWC's and these old copper washed 158 SWC's that I've been packing around with me for the better of 20 years now. Loaded up ten of each. Ten with 4.0gr of 231 and ten with 4.5. Also had some 168gr swc using 4.5gr of 231.

This spot has the usual garbage that people like to shoot and I found some kind of CCG cards. Figured that those would make a nice target.

I paced off 20 yards and using two hands, offhand, I proceeded to have fun.

The only fairly impressive string was the last one with the copper washed 158's and 4.5 of 231. I don't know what happened with the 5th (or maybe it the 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th round - I probably flinched or threw a shot in there somewhere), but I was tickled pink with the gun and the load.


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Took the SP101 out and I'll be darned if it didn't like the 168gr SWC's the best. I've had somewhere around 20 or so Ruger handguns and I'd be lyin' if I said that every darn one of them didn't like heavy bullets the best. Redhawks, SRH's, BH's, SBH's, Sixes, GP's......

In any case, the "target" ain't real pretty, but there it is. This was my first string, so I figured I'd quit while I was ahead. Good thing too as it pretty much went downhill from there. ;)

Not too bad of groups with the 38 spcl 158's (especially those copper washed). The Montana Gold 125 HP's in .357 were fairly lacking. The bullets are seconds with completely FUBAR'd cannelures (that's why they're seconds).


 

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The J frame sights are regulated for 158 grain loads. It has been my experience that those who complain the most about the accuracy of these fine little pistols are those that insist on the light +p loads.
 

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At 25yds, I can hit soda cans almost every time with my 637 1 7/8" w/ a laser grip using single action. Without the laser, I miss every time. They can be very accurate little guns.
 

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The mechanical accuracy potential of most snubbies is not all that far from that of a K38. The issue is ergonomic - the sights are crude at best and often hard to see, especially in a hurry, and the small concealment grips are not your friend. I can do pretty well with a snubby if I have a lot of time. Ayoob has mentioned shooting at 100 yards with a snubby. It can be done, it just takes a lot more work than it would with a target K or N frame with a 6" barrel and patridge sight.
 

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Gun: Freedom Arms Mini-Revolver.
Caliber: .22LR.
Barrel Length: 1”.
Ammo: Remington Thunderbolt (Super Target).
Rounds per group: 3.
Number of groups: 6.
Average group size: 1.202”.
Distance: 200 meters.
Conditions: 2AM, Thunderstorm, Drunk, During an earthquake.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
And with Thunderbolts no less. Niiiiiiiiiiiiiice..........:rofl:
 

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I found out by not shooting that often I was taking what i could to shoot at least once to the range. I found out with the shorter barrels at 25yds just point the barrel and cover what you want to hit and squeeze it off. With the longer barreled handguns i used the sights.
 

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S&W 627 PC Snubby, 8 shot, 2 5/8" barrel, red dot scope
38 Short Colt, 125 JHP
50 yards, prone
8 shots
The black center is 4" in diameter

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mover480, you've got to tell us about that Smith!
 

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It's the PC 627 chambered for .357 mag. Smooth cylinder, 2 5/8" barrel and moon clips. I set it up for ICORE Snubby Open division for the IRC a couple of years ago. Since we shoot out to 50 yards on the Near and Far Standards stage, I needed to see if it would hit the x-ring. The pic is the target after I zeroed the scope. I was pretty surprised with the results! I shoot a 38 Short Colt cartridge which in that cylinder, probably has close to a 3/4" jump before it hits the rifling lands. Accuracy out of the short barrel is unbelievable! But I've had other shooters tell me of similar experiences. One thing that is affected though is muzzle velocity. With the short barrel, not enough length to develop speed. I had to kick up the powder a bit to make power factor. Action was worked by Steve Cline out of San Antonio, TX. Oh, and I had to cut the scope mount off because it hit the front sight ramp! Most of the other shooters at the IRC thought the gun was pretty cool ... although I did get comments about..."what happened to the rest of your gun" lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I set it up for ICORE Snubby Open division....
"Snubby Open Division......" I gotta tell ya, I never heard of such a thing, but just the sound of it makes me smile. :D
 

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I have a S&W 696 which is three inch, and I can't tell the difference at 100 feet between it and my other four inch smiths. Couldn't ask for better accuracy to suit me. Will stay in three inch circle all day.
 

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I have several 3" N frames, a K frame and a couple 1 7/8" J frames.

Once you learn to tame them, they are VERY accurate.

My 36 is not as accurate in my hands as my 649 which seems to be a 'smart weapon'.

I have a couple revolvers that for whatever reason make me look good and a couple that do not. The balance challenge me and occasionally make me look like I know what I'm doing.

For the intended purpose, my 36 is more than sufficient, but at the range as a target piece it is not a pin point shooter like the 649 is.
 

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I have several 3" N frames, a K frame and a couple 1 7/8" J frames.

Once you learn to tame them, they are VERY accurate.

My 36 is not as accurate in my hands as my 649 which seems to be a 'smart weapon'.

I have a couple revolvers that for whatever reason make me look good and a couple that do not. The balance challenge me and occasionally make me look like I know what I'm doing.

For the intended purpose, my 36 is more than sufficient, but at the range as a target piece it is not a pin point shooter like the 649 is.
Are you shooting in double action only?

I have SW649 as well as a SW360, and SW60. By far the most accurate revolver I have is the SW360 which has the HiViz fiber optic front sight when shot in single action. It's as accurate as any 1911 that I own.
 

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Frankly, no. I tend to shoot single action, but I do occasionally practice double action and all my revolvers have action jobs. Some by Mag-Na-Port, others by me. All done correctly with no modification to the sear or trigger parts and full strength springs. They feel hydraulic, as they should.

I tend to shoot N frames long distance, hence the single action. I cock the trigger with my left thumb and do not shift the grip in my right hand. Typically I do well this way.

K and J frames are a new addition. I bought the first of them just 6 months ago and have been practicing since. The 36 ND is a SB with PC grips and a Tyler T-Grip. Feels good but doesn't group all that well. I suppose I'm not tailoring the load to the revolver, trying to make it shoot what I load - which works well in all other 38/357 pieces I own. It's 4.5g W231 under a cast 160g SWC (Lyman 358156) w/o the GC. I suppose I might improve things with the GC, so as it's such a simple thing, I might just load some up and compare.

649 OTOH is a laser. No modifications needed to be effective.
 

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At 25yds, I can hit soda cans almost every time with my 637 1 7/8" w/ a laser grip using single action. Without the laser, I miss every time. They can be very accurate little guns.
That's cheating using laser...but it proves the fact that mechanically they are quite accurate-the problem is that they don't have a really good human interface but here's the reality-

they are belly guns-snubbies are to keep some bad guy with a knife out of arm's reach. Practice the way you would use the thing-from concealment at five yards, double action. Front Sight Front Sight Front Sight Front Sight Front Sight as fast as you can and when you can keep five rounds on a 8.5x11 piece of paper you're doing fine.
 
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