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I love 1911s, but they are a pain in the A** to fine tune. I had a trigger pull reduced on a 1911 to about 4.5lbs by a well known smith, but began to have 5-6 light primer strikes every 100 rounds. I informed the shop of this and they sent me a stronger mainspring. I installed it, but have not tested the gun yet because I have a new problem. Now when the hammer is cocked and the safety is on and you pull the trigger the hammer stays cocked. However, when the safety is released the hammer then flies forward WITHOUT having touched the trigger again. Any suggestions would be great !
Thanks !
 

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The leg of the safety is cut too far back for the particular disconnector in your gun. Was the disconnector and sear replaced when the trigger job was done? If so, that could account for it. You'll probably need to have a new safety fitted.
 

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Hi CJW,
Remove your grip safety and peek in the back so you can see the bottom of the sear foot contact the safety when the trigger is squeezed and you’ll see the problem. They probably filed too much off the safety when fitting. So when you are pulling the trigger you are releasing the sear from the hammer hooks most of the way and when you drop the safety the hammer follows.

Next: a smith should always tell you what weight springs he installed in your gun. When you reduce the mainspring weight you will in turn reduce the trigger pull. Factory standard is 23 LB, 19 LB is a good reliable weight for a 4 to 3-1/2 pound trigger job. I would not go below 17 pound. I run a 17 LB on my long slide sub 2 pound trigger with reliable ignition, any lighter and you may get miss-fires. I like Federal primes. Winchesters are slightly harder.

Check and see if they clipped a few coils off the original mainspring. This is what they did in the old days. Only problem is you don’t know what the hell you have after you clip it. In this day and age with all the good after market springs there is NO reason to clip springs. Always use a springs in original wrapper of a known weight too keep yourself out of trouble.

Bottom line is there is a lot that goes into trigger jobs than meets the eye and really should be left up to a good smith, there can be many small problems that can crop-up that can turn into BIG problems in a hurry. Best to send your pistol to a good smith and have the job done right. Hope this helps out.

Metal Smith
 

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cjw,

To send out a trigger job with a dysfunctional safety amounts to gross incompetence.
I would not trust this shop to repair it.
Have you spoken with them yey concerning the safety problem?
If so, I'd be very interested to hear their reply.


Chuck
 

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Hi Guys
I am with GYP but Good point Chuck

Metal Smith I agree 19# for consistant reliable ignition. When they move the location of the hammer strut hole in the hammer that also changes how hard they hit.

We use a Packmayer widgit. always the same.
drop it in the bore point the pistol up. if it launches more than 4' the gun goes off each and every time.

And Yes cut springs should be a thing left in the past!
geo ><>
 

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George,

Maybe I was a little harsh. Could be that getting burned by Photopoint and losing 180 or so pics put me in an ill will.
On one hand, everyone makes mistakes and should be given a chance to make things right.
On the other hand, it takes a pretty negligent act to allow a gun with an overfit thumb safety to leave your shop.
I can think of few scarier scenarios than an inexperienced shooter, having the hammer fall upon disengaging the safety. Maybe the half-cock notch/hammer intercept shelf will prevent a discharge........maybe not.

As to mainsprings, I use Ed Brown's 19lb. mainsprings exclusively in government length.
I find the end coils to be of larger diameter than the balance of the spring, and belt-sand then polish the top end, to slightly smaller diameter than the body of the spring. This provides less drag and a nice feel upon cocking the hammer.
I think many of us have experienced the 'bolt over base' malfunctions in commander sized guns. What happens here is the cyclic rate of the slide, exceeds the ability of the magazine to bring a round fully up into the feed position in time for the slide. The round is caught by the slide, but lacking the guidance of the feed lips, follower or the round beneath it, is free to 'mis-feed' just about anywhere it cares to go.
This malf is usually experienced on the last round of a magazine, when spring pressure it at its lowest.
Contributing factors are weak magazine springs and increased cyclic rate due to slide mass, heavier than necessary recoil springs, overlubrication, use of 'too slippery' exotic lubes, shock-buffs and lightened mainsprings.
The 'cam-back' of the hammer is one of the prime slide retardants in a 1911. The lighter the mainspring, the less slide delay and the greater the cyclic rate.
For this reason, I now only use full-power 23lb mainsprings on the commander length guns.

I have seen 1911's with severely shortened and very weak mainsprings run 100%. I can not say that I have ever seen a mainspring so weak as to prevent firing unless other factors were involved. These range from primers not fully seated, to excessive headspace where the round is actually headspaced on the extractor.
Of course, the use of titanium firing pins and 'new-geometry' hammers only make things worse.

Although lightened mainsprings can contribute to a lighter pull weight and increased longevity of a trigger job, with the tool steel hammers and sears so common today, their useage is largely unnecessary.

Chuck
 

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No...you're right!

...If you feel you can "trust" them to correct it, send it back...Otherwise, send it to one of the nice guys that just told you what to watch out for and how to check it!

...that's better I think...

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>>>>>>>>>>g2<<<<<<<<<<

I Like The Shade Too!
 
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