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Discussion Starter #1
i was reading my owners manual from kimber for my eclipse and kimber recommends to swap recoil spring at 1500-1800 round. then mainspring and fire pin spring at 5000 rounds. is this some thing i need to take extra serious or replace when part starts to fail? i have 1500+ in one of my 1911's and getting there on another. i think wilson recommends 1000 on the recoil spring. am i correct on that?

both pistols function with out flaws, at least to date. also i have a series 1 kimber(its the one with 1500+ through it) and the owners manual doesnt have recommended sping change details. are they the same as the series 2 pistol?

does swaping out the mainspring and fire pin spring involve alot of skill? i would like to start getting my hands wet with these kind of things. should a newbie basement pistolsmith attempt these tasks? i say basement smith because i am new to smithing period. plus it sounds funny.......thanks for any help on this and merry christmas!
 

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Depending on how much you dry fire, you might have to change your firing pin spring more often. The last time I stripped my slide, my firing pin spring was broken in half. It was less than a year old, fewer than 4,000 rounds through the gun, but I dry fire a lot.

--tdow
 

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Changing the firing pin spring only involves removing the firing pin stop (the pin and spring will probably drop right out), replacing the spring (tight end goes on the pin first) and replacing the pin/spring assembly in the tunnel and then replacing the stop.
Replacing the mainspring is just as easy. I'd recommend putting the mainspring housing in a vice so you can push in on the plunger while using a pin to push out the retainer pin, then slowly release pressure on the plunger (not the right name for it, but easy to understand). The spring assembly will come right out and all you have to do is remove the two pieces in each end of the original spring, put them in the new spring and reverse the procedure.
As to when to change these two springs...that's debateable. I'd recommend you check the firing spring each time you detail-clean the pistol and when the spring end comes within about 3/16" of the firing pin's business end, you might think about replacing it. I wouldn't worry too much about it until it gets to within 1/8" of the pin's end, and even then it'll probably not give you any problems unless you start using some heavy ammo and recoil springs in that Eclipse. It takes a pretty good strike from that pin to ignite the primer, and inertia from recoil is really insignificant. Retracting the pin however, is important and you do need some strength left in it to perform that task.

Bob
 

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Sorry, I got called away before I finished that post. Anyhow, on the mainspring's replacement period. I've seen those springs operate properly when they've been in the pistol 30-40-or more years. They're understressed, don't move much in action, and are heavy enough to have a long life. That spring performs two functions; it provides the power to drive the hammer into the firing pin with sufficient force to overcome the resistance of the firing pin spring, and it also provides initial resistance to the recoil of the slide. IMHO, the latter function is the most important, but only in a pistol tuned to specific loads. Those springs run from about 17# up to about 23#. The 17 is often used in a .22 conversion top-end while the heavier ones are used when you need to provide more resistance to recoil...as in heavy loads!
BTW, that 17# spring will 'sometimes' fail to fire a .22 round.
On the recoil spring. That's a subject that could take up more space than we have here and would surely elicit comments from every knowledgeable 'smith on this forum (most of us are pretty opinionated) so I won't really delve into it. It's probably been covered ad-naseum here before and I suspect a little searching would be productive for you. It's a VERY important spring, BTW, and you would do well to learn all you can about it.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks guys for the help! i dont dry fire a lot so thats not going to cause a issue. and i am not going to use a .22 conversion kit. Bob thanks for all your help on "what to look for" on the wear items.
i havent taken none of my 1911's completely apart yet. but plan to in the future. so in a nut shell it depends on ammo,load type of ammo, and number of ammo through pistol.

as far as the recoil spring, i will search that out and come up with my own theory...thanks again and merry christmas guys!
 
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