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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After a recent success with fitting an Ed Brown semi-drop in barrel to a Springer, and getting good results at the range a friend asked if I would fit one to his Springfield, like an idiot I agreed. As usual it was a very tight fit and the barrel needed thinning just below the upper lug area and the. Now the problem is that when the slide is racked back the chamber end of the barrel is not resting on the frame bridge, its almost there, just maybe a .015" gap (still feeds FMJ OK). When the slide is removed and the barrel attached with just the slide stop pin the barrel can be pivitod back and forward and rests perfectly on the frame bridge. Now where the hell do I even begin to resolve this? Thought the lower lugs were too long but if that were the case it wouldnt rest on the bridge as it does when the slide is removed. Maybe its binding up at the Ed Brown barrel bushing? Is this common or maybe its nothing to worry about however the gap between hood and slide lug area is no where near the .020 that Schuemann advise, more like .005 so there is a little drag in that area. Why did I get involved?!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK, quick follow up. Decided to take a little off the underside of the barrel to get more clearance between the slide and hood using some wet and dry (i.e. something like.020), well everything seemed to be going fine until all of a sudden the darn thing now wont even let me rack the slide, the whole action is jamming up! Measured the diameter of the barrel and its .010 wider at the hood end than all other spare barrels I keep (and the original springfield barrel). SO I guess that the Springfield doesnt like wide barrels, but worse still I guess I ruined a good barrel. Maybe its time to try a Kart easy fit....
 

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The only drop in barrel kits that have worked 100% for me with zero gunsmithing (except for fitting the bushing to the slide) have been Storm Lake Machine. Kart are supposed to be real easy but I've had a couple that were a little more than "easy fit" but still not bad.
 

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Hi Roamer

The problem is likely NOT with the barrel lugs, I suggest leaving them as is.

It's possible for the barrel to sit slightly above the frame bed and still be totally reliable.

However, there are are a few things which can cause the situation you described:

1- If the barrel is hitting the frame too soon, it that can keep the barrel from resting on the bed.

2- I suggest starting by checking the top front (the side nearest the recoil spring guide) corner of the bed, where the lower lugs impact the frame.
On many aftermarket (stainless especially) barrels the radius where the barrel feet join the chamber area of the barrel is larger than stock- you may need to file the top corner of the bed to match the radius on the frame.

3- You also need to check that the new barrel is not hanging up on the inside of the slide in the area above the slide rails.

An excellent reference for barrel fitting and timing can be found at www.schuemann.com you may want to review his articel several times.
BTW he suggests .015", not .020" clearance between the hood and slide, without the slide stop installed.

Hope that helps

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #6
HI,

Thanks for the info. I had to re-cut the bevel at the front of the frame bridge to accomodate the front radius of the lower lug on the barrel but this hasnt helped. Did speak to Storm Lake and Schuemann yesterday. Storm lake claim to be .696 wide and Schuemann .694. The original was more like .687 and Will did say that these 'wide' barrels are not easy to fit to Springfield slides as they do prefer a more narrow barrel. Now I see that Wilson do a drop in barrel thats apparently been developed for (among others) the Springfield, might give that a go... in the mean time I'm going to turn down the Ed Brown from .697 to .687 and see if that helps, if it wasnt for the lower lug it would be so easy!!
Has anyone on here tried the Wilson drop in barrels and more importantly does anyone know the OD at the chamber end?
Thanks guys,
Roamer
 

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Roamer, it sounds to me like the rear face of the lower locking lugs are hitting the frame (as mentioned earlier) too early. The Scheuman timing test will confirm this for you. You said you relieved the upper corner at the front of the barrel bridge in the frame and it did make a difference so that area probably needs to be looked at closer. The barrel hood may possibly be cocking the barrel to one side a little if there is no relief on either side of the hood.

I'd be careful before I machined off the metal on that barrel. You may end up with a stock dimensioned expensive barrel.

Looks like a complete fitting procedure is in order on this one. Use the Scheuman timing test procedure to check your work. Also you may want to use the stock barrel bushing to do your barrel fitting and then fit the barrel bushing. This is what Bill Wilson does and it works.
 
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