The extractor pad and deflection

Haven't been in the shop the last couple days LOL.

The extractor has flat sides. Just grip it on the sides, angle whatever you need to make the work space accessible - it doesn't take a ton of force to hold it while you file away the sides of the pad. I believe Steve used a dremel/power tool with a barrel sander/cutter that accounts for the rounded profile. I don't like power tools spinning at 5k on tiny parts so I just placed a small flat file at the 45 degree angle and cut until the desired flat topped pyramid was created. If the jaws make a little mark on the extractor just use some sandpaper to smooth.

Here is a good thread on what you are looking for.... File to lower the bottom wall of the extractor

theraptur said:

Haven't been in the shop the last couple days LOL.

The extractor has flat sides. Just grip it on the sides, angle whatever you need to make the work space accessible - it doesn't take a ton of force to hold it while you file away the sides of the pad. I believe Steve used a dremel/power tool with a barrel sander/cutter that accounts for the rounded profile. I don't like power tools spinning at 5k on tiny parts so I just placed a small flat file at the 45 degree angle and cut until the desired flat topped pyramid was created. If the jaws make a little mark on the extractor just use some sandpaper to smooth.

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Thanks a great suggestion.

A Dremel or other rotary tool is best controlled with 2 hands. Clamp your work in a vise and learn to use both hands to guide the Dremel. You can brace to control the torque and cut only where/what you want. Practice on some scrap. You will find that it is quite easy with just a little practice.

BBBBill said:

A Dremel or other rotary tool is best controlled with 2 hands. Clamp your work in a vise and learn to use both hands to guide the Dremel. You can brace to control the torque and cut only where/what you want. Practice on some scrap. You will find that it is quite easy with just a little practice.

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Yepp two hands and practice. Any particular dremel bit to use?

Patrick0525 said:

Yepp two hands and practice. Any particular dremel bit to use?

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Wait a min...two hands...I've been doing it wrong all this time....errr....

Wrong story line, oops 😬

Its probably for the best that I’ve never owned a dremel tool!

Patrick0525 said:

...Any particular dremel bit to use?

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Whichever one allows you to approach the surface that you want to work at the correct angle, so that you are not gouging out material in an irregular fashion. Tip shape and exposed shank length vs the specific surface location on the part. With the extractor deflection pad pretty much any round stone or sanding drum should work. The grit will make a difference in surface finish, so you may need to swap out stones/drums as you progress.
Steady hands on the tool, well braced to keep the tool exactly where you want it. Gently touch as you get the feel of how it is cutting. Practice on scrap. Make your mistakes there as you learn how the tool reacts to different surfaces and pressure.

The sides of the extractor are flat, but not parallel. I would use a couple pieces of soft wood or thick leather as vise pads to clamp the extractor. Something that will conform to the extractor taper but still hold it firmly.

I build up a rest from heavy blocks (like wood) to support my hands on while holding the Dremel tool. With the rest height adjusted to the work, and using two hands, the control can be very good.

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For the record, I tried using this bit to shape the pad on two old extractors I had just for practice.I found out that I was not nearly as talented as Steve. Not even in the same league. So I went back to using a pillar file.

I am thinking about asking the guitar repair person to file my extractor.

Patrick0525 said:

I am thinking about asking the guitar repair person to file my extractor.

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Ahhh thank you for this insight. I have one of those files for my basses and likely would have NOT made this connection since it's in a completely separate box/area from my gun stuff lol

carpefundum said:

Ahhh thank you for this insight. I have one of those files for my basses and likely would have NOT made this connection since it's in a completely separate box/area from my gun stuff lol

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Many 1911 fitting challenges have been addressed in many non gun related hobbles.
The file of interest is model # 1602.

I got a response ftom Stew-Mac

Thank you for contacting us. Unfortunately we do not have the hardness of this file on file. I have reached out to our products team and will reply as soon as I hear back.

Just from my experience with these files, any heavy shaping on tempered steel will likely dull the teeth, as they have a very smooth cut, so they're more a finishing file than anything.

As a general rule I am way more careful with my files than throwing them all in a drawer to bang against each other. As the guitar tech stores his…😳
Joe

Very nice. Can u describe how u file it? Please be explicit in terms of hand strokes. Looking beautiful.

theraptur said:

Here is a pic, maybe it helps....

View attachment 673938

I use black marker to show where I am filing, and some 2.5x magnifier glasses. Go easy at first until you get a feel for it. Use a file that is about the width of the pad so you don't overhang and cut parts you don't want to, plus a narrow file allows you to see your work area.

I just approximate a 45 degree angle and match both sides. The marker helps because you can see the width of the unfiled top portion, that is going to be your "top" that you will file to increase deflection.

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Great pic that explains it all. What is the diamond file’s model or part number?