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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Appears to possibly act as an adjustable stop or? Anyone familiar with this? Haven't examined in detail. Perhaps has a small allen inset to front of trigger.
 

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are you talking about the overtravel screw near the bottom of the trigger? If so the purpose is to stop trigger movement after the hammer releases.
 

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Appears to possibly act as an adjustable stop or? Anyone familiar with this? Haven't examined in detail. Perhaps has a small allen inset to front of trigger.
if on/in the trigger it's self, it's not a "spring" , it a set screw and is to adjust over travel as Vaskeet1 mentioned


.L.T.A.
 

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Its not spring, but set screw to adjust over travel of trigger, and none of RIA's that I have gotten was adjusted from factory...

I turn the screw in until the hammer won't fall,
and back it out a quarter-turn at a time until it will...and back it out one full turn from there. Before I start, I remove the screw and apply a little
24-hour epoxy to the clean, degreased threads...screw and trigger threads.
Once the adjustment is made, be sure to wipe of any excess glue at
the back of the trigger bow, or you could glue your trigger to the mag catch, and let it cure out before you use it.

Some smiths go a step further and drill and tap the channel for a set screw to keep the adjustment screw from moving, but the epoxy works
well. Check to see if the adjustment screw will turn every time you
detail strip the gun for cleaning, and reapply if necessary.
 

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As the others have said, it's an adjustable overtravel screw - it bumps against the (internal body of the) magazine-release and prevents the trigger from moving any further backwards.

Together with a nice trigger-job, the effect of this helps to give a very crisp feeling to the trigger-pull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
are you talking about the overtravel screw near the bottom of the trigger? If so the purpose is to stop trigger movement after the hammer releases.
Yep, after closer scrutiny, it is indeed a small screw. Didn't know that came with this pistol. Thank you.
 

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To avoid problems associated with the screw migrating, some advocate removal, but I would recommend against it, as depending on the configuration of the grip safety and other internals, you could have a full-auto pistol on (in) your hands. A drop of loctite on the screw is a good idea.
 

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Since all Match pistols come from the Custom Shop, I would assume that it is adjusted correctly IMO. don't do anything to it, shoot first, see how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys. It performed flawlessly with 136 rounds expended. With the exception of the following:
I have one factory 8 round magazine.

I purchased 4 Wilson 7 round 1911 Service Mag Plus magazines.

The factory magazine did fine.

One Wilson did fine.

Three Wilsons would not release or lock the slide back. I could either push the release and push the magazine out from above or push the release and tug / pull with a bit of pressure and remove them.

I believe I ran the Wilson magazines 4 times each with the same results.

I just now loaded one round per Wilson and see no external differences to the magazines or the position of the round. I loaded each magazine with one round into the pistol. Each magazine dropped upon pressing the magazine release. Any all ideas would be appreciated. The spring in the Factory magazine is obviously softer than the four Wilsons. Not to say that's a factor since the one Wilson performed well; only an observation.

I attempted to test the overtravel. I loosened between 1/3 and 1/2 turn. Didn't really notice any difference in "slop" therefore I moved it to its original position. A little frustrating at times however I am enjoying this learning process. Thanks again guys.
 

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I just now loaded one round per Wilson and see no external differences to the magazines or the position of the round. I loaded each magazine with one round into the pistol. Each magazine dropped upon pressing the magazine release. Any all ideas would be appreciated. The spring in the Factory magazine is obviously softer than the four Wilsons. Not to say that's a factor since the one Wilson performed well; only an observation.
Mag release being difficult to press with empty mag is normal.
It should gets much lighter to press with follower not pushing up on the slide lock(i.e. mag not empty)

I attempted to test the overtravel. I loosened between 1/3 and 1/2 turn. Didn't really notice any difference in "slop" therefore I moved it to its original position. A little frustrating at times however I am enjoying this learning process. Thanks again guys.

Over travel adjustment screw stops the trigger travel AFTER it release the sear.
It makes no difference on how trigger feels BEFORE it release the sear(that's what pre-travel adjustment does).

Not having a over travel adjustment has been a long time complaint of mine about RIA until recently.

I would love for them to have a trigger with over travel adjust screw AND pre travel adjust tab.

As far as I can tell, there are 3 different triggers that RIA use...



Top is old one with no adjustment at all(came off of my CS)
2nd is one with pre travel adjust tab, but no over travel adjustment screw(came off of my 2011 - I think Im going to have my smith drill and tap this trigger and add over travel adjustment to this one. I like the heavy duty steel trigger)
3rd is one with over travel adjustment screw without pre travel adjustment(came off of my 10mm - Notice this one have stainless bow)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Slide release is EXTREAMLY difficult to release when empty magazine is in the weapon.
Forgive my ignorance, are you referring to the magazine release? Additionally, the 3 "flawed" magazines did not lock the slide back upon the last round being fired.
 

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Three Wilsons would not release or lock the slide back. I could either push the release and push the magazine out from above or push the release and tug / pull with a bit of pressure and remove them.

I believe I ran the Wilson magazines 4 times each with the same results.
The follower is slipping past the slide stop, rather than pushing it up to lock the slide. You will need a new slide stop that extends farther into the frame, if you want the Wilsons to work. You might get away with a follower/spring "conversion kit" from another maker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The follower is slipping past the slide stop, rather than pushing it up to lock the slide. You will need a new slide stop that extends farther into the frame, if you want the Wilsons to work. You might get away with a follower/spring "conversion kit" from another maker.
Thanks. How do I google "proper term" for an extended slide stop? The only hits I get are for a shorter grip hand reach to the slide stop.
 

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Bama, just call RIA at 775-537-1444. Tell them what your problem is. They will send you a new slide stop, or slide release, same thing in my book. It won't cost you anything but time.
 

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I will never understand why folks buy XYZ mags. before they try the factory supplied mag. then complain that the factory mag. was good but the other mags won't work correctly. send the other mags. back, buy some Act. mags.
 

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I will never understand why folks buy XYZ mags. before they try the factory supplied mag. then complain that the factory mag. was good but the other mags won't work correctly. send the other mags. back, buy some Act. mags.
Im with Al on this.
ACT mag that comes with RIA a GOOD mags. and its cheap.
While I don't have any experience with their 9mm mag(metalform?) that RIA includes on their 9mm guns, I do have experience with metalform mag with my Springfield 9mm, and it makes their old checkmate 9mm mag looks like a some folded piece of a junk(I do have experience them, and that isn't great).

EXCEPT the 10mm Mags RIA comes with(It works, but my bottom plate keeps working itself apart), just buy their mags
 

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Thanks. How do I google "proper term" for an extended slide stop? The only hits I get are for a shorter grip hand reach to the slide stop.
Slide stops for different calibers have different "reach", so a 10mm/.40 slide stop should be the next step, with 9mm/.38 Super intruding a bit more than that. If you can determine that the factory part is actually undersized, a within-spec .45 slide stop will (might/should) solve the problem.
 
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